TTAC Commentator Karl_Donina writes:

Hi, Sajeev. I want to know why it’s so fashionable for automakers to provide obnoxiously labyrinthine automatic shifter gates. It seems to have started with Jaguar’s innocuous J-shaped gates of the ’80s, but these days it seems to have become passé to provide a simple, easy-to-use linear gate — push button or hold lever to one side to move in a straight line out of park and through the gears, or back the other direction.  Now every shift, whether from 1 to 2 or N to R or whatever, requires inconsistent and annoying fore-aft and transverse movements. The gates on Subarus I’ve driven lately are ridiculous, as is the one in the Yaris I rented last week. And there are many more. Thanks for whatever enlightenment you can provide.

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TTAC Commentator edgett writes:

What is the correlation between driver’s training and safety? Articles suggest that improved driver training does not improve highway safety are simply counterintuitive. Granted that nothing supplants experience on the road, but surely having some idea of the braking and handling characteristics of your vehicle, before “experience” requires it, is of more than passing value. And how can we expect someone who is competent to drive a Honda Civic to drive competently when put behind the wheel of a Suburban or 15 passenger van?

If the Air Force ensures that pilots start off in small, light single-seat aircraft and lots of simulator time before getting a seat in an F15, doesn’t this suggest that education is worthwhile? This one has been hinted at in a variety of posts, but I don’t recall seeing anything where the issue has been covered in depth.

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TTAC Commentator Volvo writes:

Sajeev, today in a parking lot I was approaching a new Toyota Avalon from the side and at first thought I was seeing a recent Chrysler product. It had the bottom of the window about shoulder high to the passengers and the windows seemed rather short. As I walked through the lot I saw that many of the newer cars had that same look.  When I was a child it was called “chopped” and seemed to be a favorite way to customize post war Buicks. It went away until the early millennial Chrysler products (300 series as an example) and I hear it referred to as the “thug” look. The look now seems to be expanding across many manufactures’ lines.  Why is this? Fashion, safety, or efficiency? Wikipedia says it started in the late 40’s with Salt Flat racers to reduce aerodynamic drag by lowering the car’s profile. It then became popular as a Kustomizing look. I have not spent any time in these vehicles. How is the outward visibility? Do you have information or an opinion on this subject?
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Mike writes:

Sajeev, what ever happened to 14-inch wheels?  I mean, seriously, does the Caliber really need to be shod with 17-inchers? Why does my dad’s new half-ton pickup have 17-inch wheels? His old one had what used to be the industry standard 235-75R15. He about had a coronary when he found out new tires would be over $100 each. Perhaps if I put on my tinfoil hat, I’d say the tire companies are behind this. So really, does the average family sedan or minivan really need anything bigger that a 15-inch wheel/tire?

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Chris writes:

I have an ‘04 Chevy Silverado 2WD pickup with the 4.3 6cyl and auto tranny. Between 1100 @1300 rpms I get a strong vibration that you can feel in the floor of the truck. It happens mostly while coasting or decelerating. It feels like the vibration you get driving a manual transmission in a high gear at too low RPM, therefore “lugging” the engine.

The trans fluid looks fine and is at the proper level. The truck has 45000 miles and a fluid change is probably in order as I bought the truck used with 36000. Any ideas? The truck runs and shifts well otherwise.

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A TTAC reader who wishes to remain anonymous writes:

I have to buy a 2nd car to be used mostly in the city with short highway trips, my problem is that I have a budget of $7,500.00 since a car payment is not an option at this time.

Clear title, no accident, reasonable mileage and low maintenance cost are high priority, after 2 weeks of detailed search over the internet, I’m down to three cars that I never thought I would be thinking about: 2007 Ford Focus Sedan, 2007 Nissan Sentra and (believe it or not) a 2007/8 Dodge Caliber. The mileage I have seen on this budget varies from 18,000 up to 45,000 miles. By the way, some cars don’t have power windows, which was a shock for me and almost a deal breaker, however, some of these cars have the best mileage and lowest price.

Any thoughts on which would be the best bet?

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Jim writes:

I just got new wheels and tires on my 2008 Buick LaCrosse Super, 245/45R19s to replace the stock 18s. The tire dealer put in 40 lbs of air, and when I said “is that a little high?” they pointed to the sidewall and said “look, it can take up to 51 lbs.” I’ve never run more than 36 lbs in my tires, but I’ve never had a profile this low before. Am I just behind the times?

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Jonathon writes:

Sajeev, I grew up and still live in Chicago. Following the habits of my parents, I always replace a battery after four Chicago winters. Can modern batteries withstand the cold climates better than their predecessors, or should I replace that 4 year old battery this fall?

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Yours truly, Sajeev Mehta writes:

Hello Piston Slappers, this S.O.S. is for anyone GM-savvy enough to tango with a 4.1L Cadillac. And live to diagnose another day: are you up for the challenge?

I acquired a 1986 Fleetwood 75 Formal Limousine (1 of 1000), which made me reconsider my stance on wrong-wheel drive GM products of the mid 1980s This was a $0.99 eBay purchase from a frustrated shipping company in the Houston Ship Channel who lost their overseas buyer. It didn’t run, until we installed a $20 ignition module. Which brought the less-than-a-buck Caddy back to life. Almost. So what’s the problem?

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TTAC Commentator ajla writes:

Hi Sajeev, I recently overpaid on my purchase of a 1986 Dodge Diplomat SE in order to save the car from meeting a grim end in the Cash 4 Clunkers program. The car is in good shape and has 98,xxx miles on the odometer. My question is this: The Diplomat has a 2bbl 318 V8, but every single gas station in my part of Florida only sells E10 fuel.  I’ve read that running E10 in a carbureted engine can cause some big problems. If this is true, what kind of trouble should I be expecting, is there anything I can do to mitigate the negative effects of E10, and how long do you think I have until issues start to crop up? Would I be better off just searching out a station that sells pure gasoline even if it’s fairly far away?

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