Piston Slap: Vee-Dub Sludging While Hypermiling?

Sajeev Mehta
by Sajeev Mehta

Stewart writes:

The Jetta sludge issue had me wondering. I hyper-mile my 2003 Jetta TDI 1.9L which, of course, has a turbo. [Side note: if anyone wants to tell me what an idiot I am for mooching along at idle in 5th gear to get 70MPG, feel free to tell me why that’s bad. I am exquisitely sensitive to all the Type A drivers (going 15 MPH over, screeching to a halt at the next red light) and let them go by safely.] I change the oil every 5K miles with the recommended Castrol from the VW dealer. Here’s my question: I make my change just after a run of at least 20 miles and I use a suction pump to get the old oil out, a Pela PL-6000. I’m wondering if, by not draining the oil out the crank case plug, will I have sludge buildup in my Jetta?

Sajeev answers:

Mooching is fine, but I’d worry about unnecessary engine load in your fifth-gear-at-idle scenario. Maybe pop the Jetta out of gear and coast to more stops instead? It’s been debated before, and I still think coasting is better than staying in gear simply because you maintain higher speeds for longer time, keeping the numerator of the miles/gallon equation quite happy. Coasting is even better on cars that roll effortlessly because they are light on engine braking.

Back to the sludge:

Given the quality of today’s oils and the stellar reputation of the TDI, I doubt sludge is a big problem for you. Even if I’m wrong, at your oil change intervals, whatever sludge accumulated is small enough to suck through the Pela’s plumbing. My only concern with “sucky” oil extractors is where the tube rests: they won’t pick up all the old oil unless it by the drain plug. Unless you can see the tube when you remove the drain plug (good luck with that) can you be certain you’re getting all the old oil out?

Aside from that assurance, I use the drain plug (or plugs on dual sump systems) for oil changes so I can do a visual on mechanical bits I can’t see under the hood: check for leaks, inspect pulleys, poke a bushing, clean radiator fins, etc. That’s less important on newer cars, but your six-year-old Jetta is no spring chicken anymore.

Overall, I think you have nothing to worry about . . . unless the B&B says otherwise, of course.

Sajeev Mehta
Sajeev Mehta

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  • Chuck Goolsbee Chuck Goolsbee on Jun 01, 2009

    The 1.8T is the known sludger in the VW engine lineup. The 1.9TDI is not. Turbos on gassers run a lot hotter than those on Diesels. The intake clogging on TDIs can be prevented by replacing the factory MAS with an updated one, specifically part # 0281 002 757. It is literally a 3 minute job requiring a screwdriver and a pair of pliers. I highly recommend the procedure. Otherwise plan on spending a full day prone atop your engine getting the intake off to clean it. As for oil, my TDI is an earlier one so I don't have to blow big bucks on exotic synthetics. I just use Delo or Rotella, and change my filter every time I change oil. I have a lift in my barn, so I always do it out of the bottom with the drain plug. I also let it drip out overnight... because I can. Like the others have said, I like the contemplative time under the car looking up at it. Gives me a chance to check for other issues and be aware of the car's overall health. --chuck

  • Brettc Brettc on Jun 01, 2009

    As others have said, the TDI doesn't suffer from sludging problems like the turbo gas engines. However, if you're lugging it in 5th gear a lot, you probably need to have an intake cleaning done. My 2003 Jetta TDI is at about 107000 miles, and I cleaned my intake about a month ago. It was hard to comprehend how much gunk was clogging it. And after cleaning your intake, do the EGR adaptation via VAG-COM. I have two questions for you. Why are you changing your oil every 5000 miles, and why are you going to the dealer to buy Castrol oil? The oil change interval for the ALH TDI engine is 10000 miles. Any VW 505 00 compliant oil will be fine, which means you have your pick of Mobil 1 European formula (0W40), Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel-Truck (5W40), or Rotella Synthetic 5W40. All 3 of these oils are available at Walmart and other auto parts stores. I use a Pela extractor to change my oil. I've only done it via the drain plug once before I bought my extractor. I put it up on ramps every once in a while and check things out, but I find there's no need to take the belly pan off and drain it via the plug, unless you love laying on your back.

  • Redapple2 I gave up on Honda. My 09 Accord Vs my 03. The 09s- V 6 had a slight shudder when deactivating cylinders. And the 09 did not have the 03 's electro luminescent gages. And the 09 had the most uncomfortable seats. My brother bought his 3rd and last Honda CRV. Brutal seats after 25 minutes. NOW, We are forever Toyota, Lexus, Subaru people now despite HAVING ACCESS TO gm EMPLOYEE DISCOUNT. Despite having access to the gm employee discount. Man, that is a massive statement. Wow that s bad - Under no circumstances will I have that govna crap.
  • Redapple2 Front tag obscured. Rear tag - clear and sharp. Huh?
  • Redapple2 I can state what NOT to buy. HK. High theft. Insurance. Unrefined NVH. Rapidly degrading interiors. HK? No way !
  • Luke42 Serious answer:Now that I DD an EV, buying an EV to replace my wife’s Honda Civic is in the queue. My wife likes her Honda, she likes Apple CarPlay, and she can’t stand Elon Musk - so Tesla starts the competition with two demerit-points and Honda starts the competition with one merit-point.The Honda Prologue looked like a great candidate until Honda announced that the partnership with GM was a one-off thing and that their future EVs would be designed in-house.Now I’m more inclined toward the Blazer EV, the vehicle on which the Prologue is based. The Blazer EV and the Ultium platform won’t be orphaned by GM any time soon. But then I have to convince my wife she would like it better than her Honda Civic, and that’s a heavy lift because she doesn’t have any reason to be dissatisfied with her current car (I take care of all of the ICE-hassles for her).Since my wife’s Honda Civic is holding up well, since she likes the car, and since I take care of most of the drawbacks of drawbacks of ICE ownership for her, there’s no urgency to replace this vehicle.Honestly, if a paid-off Honda Civic is my wife’s automotive hill to die on, that’s a pretty good place to be - even though I personally have to continue dealing the hassles and expenses of ICE ownership on her behalf.My plan is simply to wait-and-see what Honda does next. Maybe they’ll introduce the perfect EV for her one day, and I’ll just go buy it.
  • 2ACL I have a soft spot for high-performance, shark-nosed Lancers (I considered the less-potent Ralliart during the period in which I eventually selected my first TL SH-AWD), but it can be challenging to find a specimen that doesn't exhibit signs of abuse, and while most of the components are sufficiently universal in their function to service without manufacturer support, the SST isn't one of them. The shops that specialize in it are familiar with the failure as described by the seller and thus might be able to fix this one at a substantial savings to an OEM replacement. There's only a handful of them in the nation, however; if you're not near one, that means figuring out how to get the car to them or removing and shipping the transmission. A salvaged unit is another option, but the usual risks of cannibalizing an unknown car are magnified by similar logistical challenges to trying to save the original.I hope this is a case of the seller overvaluing the Evo market rather than still owing or having put the mods on credit because the 'best offer' won't be anywhere near the current listing.
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