Piston Slap: Synchromech-ity

Sajeev Mehta
by Sajeev Mehta

Longtime TTAC Commentator dolo54 asks:

You mentioned using GM syncromesh in your recent Piston Slap article. I have a 91300zx (NA) that has a very typical problem for the model. The syncro for the 5th to 4th gear change is worn (they were made out of too soft a metal until the 95 transmission). I use the recommended Red Line MT-90 transmission oil, which helped quite a bit. But I still get a bit of a grind unless I double clutch the downshift. I’m wondering if I could use this synchromesh safely. I’ve read that you can use a more slippery oil to cure the problem in the short term, but it increases wear and in a short time the syncro will be gone completely (great for a sleazy salesman I suppose). How does synchromesh work and would it speed damage to an already worn syncro?

Sajeev answers:

We have a saying here in Texas: pour some sawdust in the tranny and that shit’ll clear right up. Or not.

Now let’s get serious. Unlike the Red Line oil(CHECK) used in your transmission, Synchromesh is a mix of oil and additives. After a little Internet research, people are guessing that Synchromesh is made of 5w30 non-detergent oil with friction modifiers and an EP additive, which supposedly works well under “extreme pressures.” Sounds about right to me.

I’ve seen Synchromesh’s trio of unique properties fix an early 1990s Maxima gearbox that (formerly) needed granny shifting on the 1-2 upshift. Considering the chance that “EP” additives can cushion a fragile 4-5 synchro, your Z might follow the Maxima’s lead. So if you have $150 to spare, give it a shot: buy Synchromesh and save some cash for new Red Line if it fails. Or save your current Red Line in leftover Milk jugs if it is relatively new and clean.

[Send your technical queries to mehta@ttac.com]

Sajeev Mehta
Sajeev Mehta

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  • VLAD VLAD on Jun 04, 2009

    Stick to the MT90. The RedLine MT90 and MTL are light GL4 gear oils specific to these types of application. You specifically do NOT want anything rated GL5 or with EP additives in a manual synchronized gearbox. Think wet clutch, you do NOT want MORE slippery.

  • Mike Solowiow Mike Solowiow on Jun 04, 2009

    Dolo54, Keep that white beauty running, its a classic, and enjoyed seeing one so well loved!

  • Dave Holzman My '08 Civic (stick, 159k on the clock) is my favorite car that I've ever owned. If I had to choose between the current Civic and Corolla, I'd test drive 'em (with stick), and see how they felt. But I'd be approaching this choice partial to the Civic. I would not want any sort of automatic transmission, or the turbo engine.
  • Merc190 I would say Civic Si all the way if it still revved to 8300 rpm with no turbo. But nowadays I would pick the Corolla because I think they have a more clear idea on their respective models identity and mission. I also believe Toyota has a higher standard for quality.
  • Dave Holzman I think we're mixing up a few things here. I won't swear to it, but I'd be damned surprised if they were putting fire retardant in the seats of any cars from the '50s, or even the '60s. I can't quite conjure up the new car smell of the '57 Chevy my parents bought on October 17th of that year... but I could do so--vividly--until the last five years or so. I loved that scent, and when I smelled it, I could see the snow on Hollis Street in Cambridge Mass, as one or the other parent got ready to drive me to nursery school, and I could remember staring up at the sky on Christmas Eve, 1957, wondering if I might see Santa Claus flying overhead in his sleigh. No, I don't think the fire retardant on the foam in the seats of 21st (and maybe late 20th) century cars has anything to do with new car smell. (That doesn't mean new car small lacked toxicity--it probably had some.)
  • ToolGuy Is this a website or a podcast with homework? You want me to answer the QOTD before I listen to the podcast? Last time I worked on one of our vehicles (2010 RAV4 2.5L L4) was this past week -- replaced the right front passenger window regulator (only problem turned out to be two loose screws, but went ahead and installed the new part), replaced a bulb in the dash, finally ordered new upper dash finishers (non-OEM) because I cracked one of them ~2 years ago.Looked at the mileage (157K) and scratched my head and proactively ordered plugs, coils, PCV valve, air filter and a spare oil filter, plus a new oil filter housing (for the weirdo cartridge-type filter). Those might go in tomorrow. Is this interesting to you? It ain't that interesting to me. 😉The more intriguing part to me, is I have noticed some 'blowby' (but is it) when the oil filler cap is removed which I don't think was there before. But of course I'm old and forgetful. Is it worth doing a compression test? Leakdown test? Perhaps if a guy were already replacing the plugs...
  • Crown No surprise there. The toxic chemical stew of outgassing.
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