#advice

TTAC Commentator geozinger writes:

Sajeev, if you could find more info on the SHOStang, I’m curious to see how it was done. And I’d think others would be too. Thanks.

Ron writes:

1991 Honda civic, built 7/90 in Japan: Been a great car. Occasionally, won’t start. You crank it, it almost seems to want to start, then you get the check engine light and you can crank it forever and no good. Wait 2 minutes, or longer, and it starts right up. Sometimes you have to wait an hour though. Then it will just start fine, like it never had a problem.

Does not seem to be:

– computer (but did replace it, shop diag said it was bad, problem went away for over a year … and came back)

– injectors (at least according to shop manual diag procedure)

– filter (replaced)

– fuel pump

– phase of moon (kidding)

TTAC Commentator celebrity208 writes:

Can we get a critique of the Ford Fiesta ad blitz that was going on during the American Idol finale? (are they effective? Are they unique? Etc.) One of those commercials showed the SYNC system in the Fiesta.

TTAC has discussed Ford’s SYNC and GM’s tie up with Google. A follow up question is: Might the domestics be positioning themselves to be in the lead regarding vehicle telematics? BMW has iDrive and Audi has something similar but do any of them have cooperation with leaders in the tech industry like Microsoft, Google, and (yet still single) Apple? This is assuming that these types of pair-ups produce lasting developments that can net both companies increased sales and or competitive advantage?

Raymond writes:

I have been trying to find a site that finds the right car/truck./CUV based on a needs checklist. I have had no luck finding this. The option I am most looking for is flat folding front passenger seat in a wagon type vehicle. I sometimes deliver furniture and draperies in my interior design business but mostly it is my daily driver. My next car needs to hold a 6′ ladder, too.

My Vue has been a great car for work, recreation and as a daily driver, but it is getting old. I ordered my Vue with the CVT transmission after reading that the CVT was the next best thing. I have since heard and read the the discontinued GM CVT was very problematic. The CVT has recently started slipping and my 100K warranty has expired.

I really hate car shopping (which may be why I bought 3 Saturns over the last 15 years – easy shopping/ordering/buying). I stopped at a Kia dealer close to my home and was hounded from the minute I got out of my car. Kia is now off my list for that (and none of their vehicles offer flat fold front passenger seats).

Thank you!

TTAC Commentator WaftableTorque writes:

I’m driving a 2002 Lexus LS430 with Ultra Luxury Package. It has OEM 17″ chrome rims, and one of the tires has an air leak. My mechanic diagnosed the problem as peeling chrome at the bead, causing an improper air seal. I asked to put a tube on it, but he refused because of the potential for overheating, and they weren’t designed for tubes anyway. He also commented during my seasonal rotation that the other 3 rims are doing the same thing, so they’ll all eventually develop leaks. He recommended getting 4 new rims.

Fortunately this car has a full-size spare, so I’m not in a hurry to replace the one rim. The chrome is peeling on a couple of the non-leaking ones near the lip where it’s been curbed by yours truly, but otherwise they look new.

I’m going to put my winter tires on aftermarket rims this fall, but want to keep the OEM rims for summer duty. My goal is tasteful understatement, so I want my car as close to stock as possible.

My question is: can a reputable wheel shop fix these rims?

TTAC Commentator shores4now writes:

I have 111,000 miles on my 2000 Volvo S40 and it does not leak any oil. Have always changed the oil around 5000 miles. have never used synthetic on it before. I have heard I have too many miles to change over to synthetic. That it could cause my seals to leak if I switch over at this point. Have heard the opposite that if I don’t have any leaks that it will be fine. What do you think, should I switch over to a synthetic or a synthetic blend, or stick with what I have been using?

TTAC reader JeremyR writes:

My trusty 20-plus-year-old Accord is getting a bit long in the tooth, and I’m starting to think about a replacement. While the car will be used primarily for commuting, I’d like to maximize the “fun to drive” quotient while respecting some other requirements:

* must have a manual transmission
* must be reasonably efficient (30mpg+ highway)
* must be reliable (though I don’t mind occasionally getting dirt under my fingernails doing some maintenance)
* must be able to seat four in reasonable comfort (the back seat should be adequate to transport two adults across town)
* should be a five-door hatch (but other configurations will be considered)
* should be under $10K (USD)

TTAC Commentator Sinistermisterman writes:
I have a 1997 Ford Escort (Manual) with far too many miles on the clock. If I’m particularly harsh with the gear changes, I get a clunk every time the revs drop off. I’m guessing this may be the engine/transmission mounts wearing out. Now if they are wearing out, can I just be gentle from now on and not worry about it? Only I really don’t want to spend much on the car. The reason I ask is that when I used to live in the UK I had a 1996 European Ford Escort and the rather puny rear engine mount broke (after thrashing it mercilessly)… and the engine tried to twist its way out of the car in a rather spectacular fashion. Are the engine mounts on US Escorts equally as weak/rubbish as the European versions?

TTAC Commentator PartsUnknown writes:

I just picked up a 2010 Accord sedan (don’t start – at least it’s a 5 speed stick) a month ago. Last weekend I was driving with a full, 2 gallon gas can in the trunk. I was forced to stop short due to some creative driving by some jabroney in a white panel van ahead of me. The ensuing gas spill wasn’t quite BP/Gulf of Mexico, but it did manage to soak part of my trunk carpet, and in a stroke of good fortune, the nozzle managed to wedge itself between the seatback and trunk floor, allowing gas to flow underneath my back seat cushion.

Bernie asks:

Steve: great work at “Hammertime”! Having grown up on a car lot–my dad managed/sold at my uncle’s Chrysler/Plymouth dealership–I think I am savvy when it comes to buying cars. Take my ’98 F150 Supercab 4X4…bought used in 2001, it is still in great shape (I dote on it like a newborn). I am an avid outdoorsman, so ‘Mavis’ (that it’s name) doesn’t get babied during deer season. The rest of the year I take her on drives like one might take grandma out for a walk.

But here’s my problem. My soon to be 16 year old daughter will be driving soon. She is heavily involved in sports and marching band, so a car for her to get to such things would be a great relief for mom and dad. That’s 1000’s of miles to and from school, and whatnot! We will have NO car payments around the same time (wife’s 2005 Exploder will be paid-off in July).

So what to get??? A 3rd car to use as a city car? A newer used car for wife, I jump into the Explorer and share it with daughter?

A car for daughter solely??? We will not be getting rid of my truck or wife’s explorer. It has to be used, domestic brand prefered, but V-Dubs are OK. And no more than 8 grand.

TTAC Commentator 67dodgeman writes:

Sajeev, I have a question for the Piston Slap expert. My son drives my old ’99 Ford Ranger (extended cab, 4 cyl, manual, 2WD) with roughly 130,000 miles on the odometer. I had new tires put on 5 months back at the Firestone place. Then last week, the anti-lock brakes started acting up. As in heavily manipulating the pedal even during very light braking. I assumed the sensor was fried and pulled the fuse, after which everything worked normally. There was a slight ticking sound from the drive train, so I replaced U-joints. Still ticking, but no other obvious issues.

Then, Friday, the driver’s side rear tire and axle came loose. Luckily he was making a low speed U-turn and the last 6” of axle was still in the housing by time he stopped. We jacked the truck up, pushed the axle back in, and pushed it home (two blocks – very very lucky it happened there and not on I-45). I pulled the differential cover and immediately found the (bleeping) C-clip loose in the housing. The anti-lock sensor works off of teeth on the ring gear (just now figured that out), so I’m assuming that having about half the teeth ground off is the cause of the brake malfunction. The oil appeared original, had that burnt smell, and was full of grit. I’m now in the process of changing the whole assembly with a salvage yard spare due to the gear damage.

I’m giving my son a used car for his college graduation present. What models and years would you recommend in a car that is big enough to carry a stringed bass (the musical instrument -not a fish!), is very safe, reliable, gets good gas mileage, costs $5k-$7k. Thank you for your suggestions!

Jim writes:

I had a transmission problem with my Fusion. Dealer tells me lots and lots of people are having the problem, and parts are backordered. It appears 2010 Fusions being sold today have defective transmissions. Ford has a TSB on the issue to dealers. People claim transmission leaves them stranded on freeway. Search Fusion Transmission Problems on Google and you will see. I think someone in the media needs to do a story on this.

TTAC Contributor David Holzman writes:

Sajeev, my friend Polly, an avid sheepdogger, wants to know how much weight her early to mid-80s Vanagon can pull. Specifically, she is interested in buying a 700 lb trailer, in which she would haul up to six sheep, each of which weighs 100-150 lbs. Thus, she could end up pulling as much as 1,600 lbs, and who knows, maybe more. How much can she pull without damaging her pride and joy?

The Vanagon has a ’94 engine from a Subaru Legacy–she doesn’t know which engine–but is otherwise all old Veedub. 212k miles on the car, less on the engine, but how much less is unknown. No rebuilds that she knows of. I don’t believe she’s going to be doing any major hill climbing.

Mark Clark writes:

I’d like to ask for advice about buying a winter car. I’m replacing a 1967 Land Rover that my wife has decided is no longer acceptable. She tolerates my other car habits, so replacing her is not an acceptable option. My requirements are: 1) All Wheel Drive: Here in the wilds of Eastern Oregon where the local government does not plow the roads, two driven wheels is what summer cars are for. Don’t worry, it will get snow tires. 2) Car-like Handling: As a summer Miata driver, big SUVs are not acceptable. On the other hand, as a summer Miata driver, Elise-like handling is not required. 3) Year 2000 or newer: When your wife is height-challenged, full-powered airbags are not acceptable. Older cars without airbags are even less acceptable. 4) Cheap: Under $10,000 makes me a hero. 5) Reasonably Reliable: After a 1967 Land Rover, I’m not asking for much, but I’m not interested in wrenching in a snow storm.