#advice

Jay writes:

I’m spoiled.

I’ve been blessed to drive three BMW 3-Series over the past several years (BMW employee leases). I’ve been spoiled by their comfort, performance, and quality. Now I’m out of the car industry and my lease is going up. I’m looking to buy a car for $17K or less and build up my investment portfolio. I plan on driving the wheels off this car, so I would like to like it at least a little.

Randi writes:

I have a 2000 Civic with 70,000 miles (hoping to hit 250,000 miles). Googled for major repairs to do including the timing belt, and everything listed below should be done…right? Are any unnecessary?

Any not listed that I should fix before it breaks? Here it is:

1. Replace fuel filter, air/cabin filter, coolant flush.
2. Check bushings and alignment.
3. Replace timing belt, water pump, idler and tension pulley, tensioner (hydraulic tensioner, tensioner assembly).
4. Check various rollers, valve adjustment and clearances.

TTAC Commentator Rehposolihp writes:

I drive a MKV GTI and despite it being a car that always brings a smile to my face when its working…well, just having to make that last qualification doesn’t bode well for me.

Combine that with a warranty on the verge of expiration and I’m fairly sure I should run away now.

The only thing I’ve done to it is popped on a boost gauge, and purchased an ECU flash (which can be locked back into stock), because I wanted to be reminded that I drive a turbocharged car from time to time. Before I start snapping photos and trying to sell should I replace it back to stock? I may have possibly broken the poor original vent assembly into tiny little pieces in my clumsy attempt to remove it, but the surrounding bits still look good. So – is the minor hassle of replacing it back to stock going to net me a profit, or am I over thinking a boost gauge?

Michal writes:

Normally I can find answers for my friends, however this one has me baffled and Google is no help, maybe Piston Slap can help.

My friend is selling/getting rid of a 2006 Jeep Commander, 4.7L, towing package and ~43k miles. Normally a fairly easy thing to price, however the thing has a buyback note on the title, because of some issue or another, he says it was something to do with a starter, but given that info was probably from a dealer, I take it with a huge grain of salt.

Using the normal ‘quoting’ sources (Edmunds/KBB/etc) a clean title car is in the 14k price range. However this has that buyback/lemon not on it, and I have not found any guidelines as to how to price it. (just advice as to how to avoid getting one) He was given a CarMax quote of 8k. But that’s not enough to cover the note. I told him to be honest & put it up on Craiglist & eBay to see what happens, anything over 8k is extra money in the pocket. But after doing some research that really didn’t pan out, I’m not so sure the 8k was a bad offer.

Jeff writes:

Long-time lurker here with a question: I’m currently driving a 1996 Outback with 162,000+ miles. Over the years I’ve had to make a few minor repairs in addition to regular maintenance, but nothing more serious than replacing an alternator. The car still drives well and gets 23-25 mpg in daily mixed driving (and about 28-30 highway), but has been slowly using extra engine oil for about the last 40,000 miles. I make sure I check the oil level at least bi-weekly, but normally don’t have to add any for at about 2-3 months, or after an extended highway drive. (75-80 mph turns the engine at 3000+ rpm; there’s a definite drop in the oil level during the trip.) I’m using full synthetic 5W-30 as recommended by the manual.

TTAC Commentator Detroit-Iron writes:

I have an ’09 Subaru Legacy with 26.5k on the clock. I drive close to 600 miles a week, all on main road or highways at a steady 75 mph with few exceptions. It is pretty warm where I live now, but it is not dusty here in the mid Atlantic, way too much humidity, and my direction of travel means I rarely run into traffic. Recently I got a CEL, I took it to Advance auto but the guy couldn’t find the port. The next morning the CEL was gone, but after work it had come back. I tried filling the gas and re-tightening the gas cap to no avail. Ominously it also developed a rattle at 3k rpm. After I got home (120 mile trip with no cruise control) I went back out to the store that evening and the CEL was gone. The next day I took it to a dealer who didn’t have time to diagnose but said he would take if for a quick spin.

TTAC Commentator trailertrash writes:

I am hoping to save a little research time and thus allow me more actual “behind the wheel time” when looking for my next car. I have lots of wheels, from the Tiguan, MKS, 2010 Mazda6 and even a Trailblazer. My next purchase needs to be affordable, FAST, fun and carry everything (within reason). This is a wagon or hatch. The latest sportwagen by Caddy is awfully slow by my standards. The MKS has me even wanting more off the red light. The Audi3 is a little small. I WISH the G series was a hatch! Or the Mazda still had one.

Dan writes:

My detailer suggests giving my year-old (but 20k mile) midnight-blue 911 Carrera 4S car a polish and a paint sealant. Although my detailer assures me it is safe, words like ‘mild abrasive’ and the industrial metal-clad dual-orbit application machine do not sit well with me. I trust that my detailer knows what he is doing, but won’t it eventually grind out my clear coat, with successive polishes? How many polishes does it take to get to the center of a Tootsie Roll? And what does it mean to polish surfaces that have a clear bra application?

Thanks very much, TTAC helped me picking S vs 4S, and I don’t want my baby done wrong.

Andy writes:

This is a perfect question for the first day of summer: I would love the readers’ input on plow trucks, specifically using a 1500 vs 2500. I will be doing some light duty plowing in Eastern MA, in a small to medium sized parking lot with plenty of obstacles. I thought of a Wrangler since it could also be a great summer toy, but it seems like it might not be suited for plowing. I know some of the readers will have some good experience to share. Thanks!

George writes:

Sajeev, the automatic transmission in my 1999 Honda Accord Coupe from a prior Piston Slap failed at 115k miles. Lost 4th gear (and reverse) on US-75 on Friday. Lower 3 forward gears work, but got a rental Saturday and kept the Accord parked at home. Have an estimate of $1850 from Plano Transmission to rebuild it with (tougher?) Raybestos clutches. Owner Jeff McLeod claims to have bought a 98 Accord from a customer, rebuilt the transmission, and drove the car to 200k miles. What is your opinion of rebuilding that transmission in a local shop vs. installing a factory rebuilt transmission? I like the idea of knowing exactly what was done to the transmission and where the core came from. What parts would you want inside the transmission if it was your car? My goal would be a

1. A car capable of running to 200k miles
2. A car reliable enough for getting to work and weekend trips for at least 2 years to 140k miles.

I test drove several cars this weekend and wasn’t excited with my replacement choices.

TTAC Commentator Scorched Earth writes:

Hi Sajeev, my buddy has a manual-transmission, non-turbo 7M-GE MKIII Supra with about 150,000 miles. Supposedly the previous owner had replaced the head gasket at least once. About a month ago it started smelling like burning oil, and the engine is known for being overly prone to blown head gaskets, so he decided to play it safe and take it off the road within 2 hours of the symptom appearing.

Draining the coolant reservoir revealed a sludgy black substance, which we assumed to be oil, within the coolant. Another strike. The spark plugs, too, were swimming in oil. The rest of the coolant, however, was fine. We could not find any coolant mixed in with the oil, either. Furthermore, there was no greyish/whitish substance around the radiator cap.

Still, we went through the arduous process of removing the head. When the moment of truth arrived, the head gasket was found to be undamaged. And at this point, we’re clueless.

The head gasket needs to be replaced regardless since we’ve taken off the head, which will cost about $500. If we can find out what the source of the issue is, that’s fine. But if not, it may make better financial sense to junk the poor car.

Any idea what problem could be posing as a blown head gasket?

TTAC Commentator superbadd75 writes:

My question is somewhat loaded, as I have a general plan of attack, but would like to hear from you and the B&B. My awesome wife just surprised me with the car I’ve been dreaming of for some time now. It’s a very basic 60,000 mile ’93 Miata with power NOTHING, and no A/C, so there’s very little to break. I plan to make the timing belt change top priority, and do the fluid changes, but are there any other Miata specific items that need attention? I appreciate any and all advice!

TTAC Commentator SexCpotatoes writes:

I lost a car this past weekend. No it wasn’t stolen…worse, it was totaled sitting outside my mechanic’s shop. Let this be a lesson to 18 year old kids everywhere: Don’t Text, or call & drive or you will lose control, spin around and wreck into a car with the passenger side of your early 90’s Dodge Caravan, losing your cell phone out the window. If you chose to leave the scene, the State Highway Patrol will track you down.

The only good thing is that he had valid insurance. My frame is bent because it pushed the bumper over, so I’m pretty sure the insurance company is going to write the car off. Which I had JUST (literally) had the shocks replaced with KYB G/2 Gas-A-Just shocks, two new front window motors put in, & the door lock actuators that had given up were on the list for being done early this week. So I guess I’ll never be getting throttle responsive LED strips put in the opera lights like I was thinking of doing if I ever got the money.

I’m writing Piston Slap to see if anyone has any tips for dealing with the kid’s insurance company. I maintained this car in top mechanical shape, even replaced the rear tail lamps with LED’s and installed a sequential turn signal kit. Sure it had about $500 or so worth of rust repair needed, but it was a great car. The insurance company is probably going to low-ball me. My mechanic said they should offer me about 3-4 G’s, but on a ’91 Grand Marquis with only 114,000 mi.? I’ve got other people at work telling me I’ll see $5-700 offered, max. There are only 3 cars within 300 miles of me for sale on AutoTrader. If I expand the search to 500 mi. & include ever car of this body style ’88-’91 the avg. price works out to $2900 regardless of mileage. EBay doesn’t have any ’91s for sale but their range of sold prices is $452-3988 (which makes the average $2225.) NADA & KBB wholesale numbers are not promising.

So I ask you, Sajeev and the Best & Brightest, any advice?

John writes:

Long time listener, first time caller. I find myself in the yuppie’s dilemma – $18k to spend and infinite possibilities.

Some background: I’ve always loved a great ride and I’ve been promiscuous….my last five cars have been a 1991 535i, a Nissan 200SX, Mazda Millenia, 1997 740il, and I currently drive a 2008 Subaru WRX under lease ($260 a month with $0 down, about the only time a lease has ever made sense to me). When the lease is up, so is the jig. I’m a newly minted lawyer at a large law firm making way more money than I should at 27, and my wife’s a nurse doing just the same. We want to keep the purchase under $20K and I’ve seriously toyed with everything from a 2011 Sonata to a Z3 to 530xi to an A8 and everything in between.

Chris writes:

Hi! I really enjoy TTAC and especially the Piston Slap feature. I have a 2005 Ford Mustang Convertible with the V-6/Automatic “poseur” package (super optioned out with a lame ass driveline). Despite the slushbox, I really enjoy this car. It’s been 100% problem free.

I work from home, so the car only has 23,400 miles on it. Most maintenance schedules are stated by mileage, but my car is driven so little, it has original brakes, tires, etc. To my credit, I have been religious about oil changes every 3 months (regardless of mileage).

Now that the car is nearing 6 years of age, do you have any recommendations on maintenance I should perform based on age as opposed to mileage? I’m getting ready to drive from Florida to California, so this seems like good timing to be pro-active to avoid any breakdowns.