TTAC Commentator jrominski writes:
Nice to see you are still at it on TTAC. (Back at it?)
So my story is a 2010 Audi A4, Quattro 2.0t Premium. Red, as it should be (No, it should be brown. Duh. – SM). Just turning 60k miles. The engine is an EA888 according to Wikipedia, twin chain driven counterbalance shafts as is known to work so well on I4s. Production commenced 2008 and its in all US A4 B8s with the 2.0 gas engine. Inside oil cap the gallery is clean as can be, I keep the VW spec Mobil 1 changed with my mityvac. New plugs, NGK of correct part number, air cleaner path is fine. The rest is original unmolested.
The issue is it runs rough. Slightly, as in the car does not shake but I feel it. Worst, dead cold, running at just above idle up a slight incline. A miss. Since 25k. Goes mostly away when warm or when power is asked for. No codes. Sort of feels like a tire flat spot but it did not go away with new tires.
Dealer responses on different occasions from mile 25k through mile 60k (all same dealer.)
- (15 minutes after drop off, motor still hot) It does not run rough. Our service guys could not replicate the problem. You should be using top tier gas. (I hand him a printout from www.toptiergas.com and suggest generating a handout for the service department to give customers instead of just telling them to go look it up on internet.)
- It runs rough because you have the old, non-counterbalanced engine. Its a 2010. Buy a new car. The news ones do not do this.
- It runs rough but does not throw a code. We can’t help. What gas are you using?
- It does not run rough.
- It runs rough because of intake sludge. We will fix it for free right after it goes off warranty. Top Tier in the mean tine.
- You should be using that there top tier gas. Run some Chevron through it. (I buy mine cheap at Costco)
A friend with VAG setup ran a diagnostic and it has no codes, except for a heater flap ran out of limit once. It sat there idling kind of lumpy and no misses were recorded anywhere.
- All Audis have crap motor mounts. He flexes right mount up on lift with a tire iron, it moves a bit. Its fluid filled, should flex. The mount has a sensor and would throw a code.
- If it had a miss the O2 sensors would pick it up and if it were serious the Cats would fail. They are fine. Its your imagination. All new cars suck. Freaking Japanese. Buy an old Panther (Obviously, esp in Brown. – SM) or a new Focus.
I am doubtful motor mounts are what it is. This guy makes his living doing off-warranty work for Porsche Audi dealers all around Boston, engine controls and sensors. The dealer warranty payment from Audi is low enough that they will not ever perform any real diagnostics under warranty: no code then OK let’s back it out of the shop!
OMG SON! I mean…
- Even with my corporate full-time gig, the eldest TTAC scribe’s been reliably posting to the Piston Slap series twice a week, but there’s still a question that I’m not a regular contributor?
- Your last paragraph, the section I entered in bold face: an Audi specialist tested the engine mount, it CLEARLY failed no matter what the sensor reports, and you don’t believe him?
More to the point:
Look, I understand your lack of Audi knowledge (of which I’m guilty too) and our country’s general mistrust of any mechanic (ditto)…but…
I had a similar problem after my (then 13-year-old) Lincoln Mark VIII had a bizarre vibration/miss around idle. I gave up and went to my trusty mechanic. He fired it up, opened the hood, put his foot on the brake, put it in gear and pressed the gas: the motor lifted up like the nose of an Airbus on takeoff. Granted a Ford liquid-filled mount lasting 13-ish years and 150-ish thousand miles is a little different than your situation, but if your mechanic friend says that Audis have “crap motor mounts” you go right ahead and believe him!
Fact is, just a millimeter (or less) of variance in any powertrain mount is a concern. The sensor hasn’t been tripped yet, but that’s irrelevant.
Case in point: once again, my Mark VIII. The fairly complex aluminum differential/IRS setup had an annoying vibration above 80 MPH. On a whim, I replaced the four rubber mounts because one looked somewhat smushed (technical term) compared to the others. Considering my driving style in a modified, Hot Rod Lincoln, perhaps that fraction of a millimeter meant something. Lo and behold, it did.
Take it from me and your Audi-wrenching friend: GET NEW ENGINE MOUNTS!
Send your queries to email@example.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry…but be realistic, and use your make/model specific forums instead of TTAC for more timely advice.