By on May 28, 2014
warranty. Shutterstock user Castleski
Chris writes:

Hi Sajeev,
I have a 2010 Audi S5 with about 45k miles. My local mechanic recommended Mercury Warranty for mechanical breakdown coverage… is $4,700 a good deal for 5 years, or an additional 52k mileage in coverage?

I’m worried that it would be easy to add up to that $ in repairs.

Sajeev asks:

Needing the warranty is a safe bet, good for you. Question is, can you service the S5 at the Audi dealer with that warranty? What’s the deductible? Are loaner cars covered?

Chris answers:

Yes, loaner cars are covered and I can have it serviced anywhere that I want. $100 deductible. It’s their platinum level exclusionary policy…

Sajeev concludes:

Yeah, that’s good stuff: but shop around because someone might sell it for less. So what’s the only problem here? It’s not a factory warranty, with factory customer service.

Will this company dump your AWD high performance coupe after a certain payout threshold? It is possible. But, from what I’ve seen with people far braver than I, the moment your 4+ year old German bahnburner raises the ire of the underwriting department is after the warranty paid for itself.

Perhaps asking an Audi dealer about the chance of an extended warranty is also in order.

And now let’s see what the Best and Brightest add into the mix!

[Image: Shutterstock user Castleski]

Send your queries to [email protected] Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry…but be realistic, and use your make/model specific forums instead of TTAC for more timely advice.

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62 Comments on “Piston Slap: The S5’s life saving Mercury?...”

  • avatar
    Land Ark

    I once owned an Audi and through sheer dumb luck I bought an aftermarket warranty for it from the used car dealer. I couldn’t get financed for it because my down payment was too high so I bought the warranty to get the amount high enough to finance (I made a LOT of mistakes with that car – the first I ever financed).
    I ended up using the warranty a lot. I didn’t research the warranty enough and I still ended up paying a lot out of pocket for the repairs.
    After the experience with that car, I have made a vow to not buy any car that I think I will need a warranty for. If I can’t afford the repairs or maintenance, I can’t afford the car.

    • 0 avatar

      > If I can’t afford the repairs or maintenance, I can’t afford the car.

      Quoted for Truth. :)

    • 0 avatar

      My Audi A6 has actually been a good, reliable car. I do keep some money set aside for repairs, though. If you can’t afford to maintain a car, you shouldn’t own it. Get something cheaper and more reliable if you’re that strained by maintenance.

      You own an Audi because nothing less will do. You do have to pay for that, though.

  • avatar

    Aftermarket warranties usually have a lot of loopholes written into the fine print, like not covering seals, or broken hardware. That said, a lot of shops will work with you and write the job up differently so that the warranty will cover the repair. Personally, I wouldn’t ever trust an aftermarket warranty, and I wouldn’t buy a car that needed one.

  • avatar

    You should check with your local Audi dealer as well. IIRC as long as you’re still within the 5-60k miles powertrain warranty you can still buy an extended warranty from Audi. No harm in asking and getting a price quote.

    • 0 avatar

      Yes, the warranty coverage will be more expensive than if you had bought it day 1 when the car was new…but at least it will be OEM warranty. Third party warranties scare the sh1t out of me for all the reasons stated here.

  • avatar

    I had a great experience with an extended warranty on a 2007 Nissan Murano. Thing was a bit of a dog. Seat broke, seals broke, ton of stuff broke. Easily got my money back on the warranty in the first year. I don’t know Audis but if they’re like BMWs every single stop at the shop is going to run $500 minimum without a warranty, and shop visits can start happening any time now.

  • avatar

    I would never consider buying a used German or British car without also buying an extended warranty. It’s just a no brainer. Things WILL break, and will be very expensive.

  • avatar

    Groan. Are aftermarket warranties designed to protect you or to make money for the seller?

    • 0 avatar

      Both. Like any form of insurance – it’s to protect you from the long tail risk.

      • 0 avatar

        In theory yes. But in reality, I don’t know how many used car buyers have any idea of what long tail risk even is. Warranties are made and crafted to 1.) make money for warranty company, 2.) provide purchaser with a sense of (false?) comfort and protection, and 3.) cover enough repair expenses to give the illusion that it really is a warranty and not a money making device.

        As Sajeev says, this car WILL have problems. You don’t think you’re pulling one over on the insurance company and their army of actuaries do you? The policy will either be over priced and/or their will be multiple loop holes protecting the policy underwriter.

        If you’re buying a car that may have problems, then the idea of pooling risk makes sense. But if your car WILL have problems, pooling 100% risk still comes out to 100% liability on your and every other audi’s eventual problems. The insurance company is not stupid.

        Drop your $6G toward a newer german car if you want to stay on the treadmill or buy japanese if you’re going to hold on to the car for a while.

  • avatar

    If the warranty is $4700, I’d avoid the car.

    Sell the Audi, adding $4700 to the proceeds and go car shopping.

    • 0 avatar

      I agree. There’s your down payment on leasing a new Audi. I would like to eventually drive a “luxury” brand, but I’ll wait until I can either afford an Acura or Lexus, or am ready to have a lease payment for the rest of my life.

    • 0 avatar

      One major visit could consume the cost of the warranty. The Smoking Tire podcast said that Carmax was offering a used G63 with $3,000 optional warranty. One visit would eat up most of that cost.

  • avatar

    The answer is that for $4700 you could get a used Miata.

  • avatar
    Da Coyote

    Both my BMW and Mercedes underwhelmed me with their spotty reliability, waits for parts, and the costs that would have been incurred had both POS not been under warranty.

    Sorry, folks, but the German machinery was great to drive, but had the reliability of Windows Millinium edition.

    The only machinery that was worse was – of course – GM.(I will except my two ‘vettes here…which were quite reliable.)

    I’ve learned my lesson.

  • avatar

    Read the fine print.
    Then read the fine print.
    After you’ve done this, remember that warranty companies are in the business of making money, and while the law of averages (that you might buy and not need it) helps, their bottom line involves mainly avoiding paying claims whenever possible, and they do *not* have your best interest in mind.
    Now read the fine print again.

    I had an Audi S6 Avant that I bought used, and the previous owner had a third-party powertrain warranty that he transferred to me. Said warranty company had a fixed labor rate that they paid based on “market averages”, but I couldn’t find a mechanic that actually knew anything about Audis that charged anywhere near what they were willing to pay. I think they capped at $65/hr and most places were charging 2x that. Many “powertrain” warranties also don’t cover AWD unless specifically called out in a rider that lets them charge more, and have all sorts of carve outs for what they consider wear items, which may include things like alternators, starters, brake rotors, clutches, timing belts, etc, as well as things that they consider collateral damage due to improper maintenance (say, if your timing belt were to break before the next recommended replacement interval and destroy some valves… This didn’t actually happen to me, just strawmanning here)
    To make matters even better, the one time I actually had something happen that was covered by the warranty (thermostat failure), I came to discover that my warranty company’s parts and labor cost guidelines didn’t distinguish between the S6 and the A6, despite the fact that the former had a 4.2L V8 crammed into its engine bay instead of a V6 or a 2.0T, and thus refused to pay any more than what their system said was the amount of labor hours associated with replacing a thermostat on an A6, rather than the many hours required to dismantle the front clip of the car and remove the water pump (!) to gain access to said thermostat. Even after multiple conversations between an Audi dealer’s service manager/master tech, the person on the phone stuck to their guns. The only thing I got out of them was that they covered (for the value of “coverage” above) the water pump replacement because the tech got wise and told them it was failing, but even then, they sent someone to inspect it before paying the claim. (aside: WTF was Audi thinking there? A thermostat that fails closed and causes the car to overheat, and can’t be accessed without pulling the water pump?)

    I agree with others, third-party warranties rarely work in your favor, and if you want a car with a warranty, go buy it from Carmax (google Doug Demuro and Carmax for details on why) or buy a CPO, or see if you can pay Audi to get the CPO warranty on yours.

    • 0 avatar

      | starters, brake rotors, clutches, timing belts

      Well to be fair, those are wear items. I would consider an alternator to be a warranty part though.

      On the timing belt thought, not really a straw man. It was a B5 era VAG problem. I had an early A4, and the general knowledge on the forums was that it was a time bomb after 60k, even though the factory manual recommended 90k. It was also a $1k repair at book rates, or $250 in parts if you do it yourself. But back then, warranties lasted something like 2 years, so you were SOL if it happened.

    • 0 avatar

      yes and yes and 100x yes ^^^

  • avatar

    People Telling Chris to sell his car is a waste of time. He is enamored with the concept of “German Engineering”. Now, he is looking for ways to minimize his risks while owning a high risk car that has very expensive repairs. I would tell him to look into an Audi extended warranty. Third party warranties are a risk in themselves. If it were me, I never would have purchased the Audi it in the first place. I know too many people who have paid through the nose to drive such a car.

  • avatar

    Noteworthy: It was your local mechanic who recommended this specific company. Evidently, he has found them good to work with. I don’t think he would be recommending a third party company that never paid his claims. Or, he is getting a commission? I’d look into that. Like the OP said, shop for the best price from this company, and then see how you feel. If the car is paid for and you love it and want to keep it a few more years, it’s relatively cheap insurance.

  • avatar

    I’d like to know what companies like Audi, BMW and Porsche think about the people that drive their cars. Are the lessees seen as wise or just too poor to buy? Are used buyers seen as wise or just foolish? Do the Germans have any sense for how costs of ownership drive people away, and lead to decline of the cars or their shipment to points African or Balkan? Why are the cars so bloody expensive and complicated to work on, anyway?

    • 0 avatar

      Audi’s, MB, and Porsche sales keep increasing faster than overall market growth. For whatever reason their strategy seems to be working.

    • 0 avatar

      Why would they care? A sale is a sale to the company, they get paid either way. Dealers like leases because they often generate two sales, a marginally profitable new car sale and a VERY profitable used car sale, with potential for yet another new car sale, rinse and repeat. And of course leases DO let people buy more car for the same monthly payment, at the expense of ALWAYS having a monthly payment. But how many people ever pay off cars and keep them anyway? Sure, we wingnuts hanging around TTAC do, but we are NOT typical consumers by definition.

      As for the “expense and complicated”. A BMW is going to be more expensive to maintain than a Corolla for the simple reason that what isn’t there can’t break. More content, more expense. But if you think that a BMW is any cheaper to fix than a comparable Lexus, you are dreaming. The Lexus MAY need less fixing, maybe. And now that high tech is making it’s way downwards, which do you think is going to cost more to maintain at 150K, my non-turbo inline six BMW with minimal options or a loaded ECOBOOST Fusion with Nav, Xenons, etc? Today the content level of the car is likely to make more difference than the brand.

    • 0 avatar

      Their sales are fine, but they have one of the highest lease/sale ratios of the entire marketplace. I actually view the initial lessee as smarter than the initial buyer. The second (CPO) buyer actually gets a better deal than the first buyer, aside from a seat nobody has ever farted in before, as most of these cars are CPO warrantied to 100k and 6-8 years.

      All that maintenance around that point is a killer though, which is when they get dumped on the third unsuspecting buyer who thinks they got a great deal.

  • avatar

    Different option: Self-insure. Repair shops often refuse extended warranties, but they never refuse cash.

    So $4700 comes to $78 / month over a 5 year term. Just start banking a car payment per month (say $300 to $500) in something with little risk, like a short-term bond fund, money market, or an old fashioned savings account. If (When!) those expensive repairs come, even a $3k repair is only 6 months of those savings.

    When you finally tire of the White Elephant, you’ll have a great downpayment saved for your next ride.

  • avatar

    Is $4700 for 52k miles of coverage a good deal??? No. H-E-double-hockey-sticks NO. I can’t even believe you have to ask this.

    If the car has already had a lot of problems, then get rid of it now while its still worth a lot on the used market, no point in throwing away another $5k on it. If it hasn’t really given you any trouble up to this point then chances are it will be fine until 100k, thats when VAG products really start to get bad. Put the $5k in the bank and save it for anything catastrophic.

    If you aren’t comfortable with the chance of expensive repairs, you shouldn’t buy German cars out of factory warranty, used or new. You would be better off leasing them, or trading out every cpl yrs on another one with more warranty.

    • 0 avatar

      He only drives 10k miles a year so he’s protected for ~$1000/year. Which seems fair for a car that uses very expensive parts.

      • 0 avatar

        Insurance is to protect against expenses that you can’t afford on your own. Normally I try not to be that guy telling others what they can afford, but I think it’s safe to say that anyone running around in a ’10 S5 should easily be able to afford $1k/year in repairs.

        • 0 avatar

          Exactly this. Liability insurance, health insurance, homeowner’s insurance all make sense because you are spending a few hundreds of dollars to protect against potentially tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars of loss. Mechanical breakdown insurance on a car? Ridiculous! You are spending thousands up front on the *chance* that you might have a few thousand dollars in repairs? How does this remotely make sense? And on average, the warranty vendor not only makes money, they make a TON of money. For most aftermarket warranties, my understanding is that the seller gets 25-50%, then the vendor pays the claims out of the rest with a nice profit margin. So what does that tell you about how the average buyer makes out? Vegas has MUCH better odds of paying out.

          If you can’t afford to fix the car you can’t afford that car, period. And if you can afford to buy it new, you can certainly afford to fix it. Depreciation is a FAR bigger expense than repairs and maintenance will ever be.

          The only exception I would consider is the CarMax warranty. They seemingly do not differentiate the price very much based on the type of car, since presumably they are selling a hundred warranties on Camrys for every SL65 or Range Rover that they sell. So they will sell you a long warranty with decent terms on crazy expensive cars for pretty cheap. But most warranty companies do not work that way. And I would still read the fine print before signing on the dotted line.

    • 0 avatar

      To expand on this, in my experience with BMW at least, a large portion of the repairs are going to come from the suspension and various bushings and mounts – items that I would expect a warranty to exclude.

      The big thing that this warranty might help with is the timing chain guides. I don’t know how common problems are before 100k, but that’s the worst case scenario.

  • avatar

    Extended warranties are a gamble. The underwriters know the costs so whatever you pay will “on average” be more than the repairs you will experience. It is some piece of mind of a catastrophic issue occurring.

    I for one will be testing this as I now own my first German car which will be out of warranty at the end of this year. It will be properly maintained and have blackstone reports every oil change. Independent mechanic will handle all of the work after warranty is up.

    If it seems unreliable it will be sold and I’ll go back to Japanese or American.

    • 0 avatar

      Why so many reports? Save that money for the repairs you’re gonna need elsewhere on the vehicle.

      I think the post-warranty problems you will experience will be far beyond the reach of Blackstone’s reporting tool. (They’ll be outside of the long block.)

      • 0 avatar

        The reports will be for trending to determine a baseline for the engine and to see if there is an increase in particular minerals. Rod bearing wear is a precursor to engine failure with e9x M3’s. Whereas if you catch it in time its a $1-$2k repair.

        If there are multiple issues then I’ll take that as a sign and sell it.

  • avatar

    If nothing has really gone wrong yet, chances are nothing too major will. (Queue horror stories in 3, 2,1…)

    Contrary to popular internet belief a 2010 Audi is not a Yugo. It isn’t the same thing as the 1998 A4 that Billy Bob Nobody bought used in 2006 and had a myriad of problems.

    Honestly, if it were me, I wouldn’t even bother with an extended warranty. The car should be just fine.

    Unless you drive it super-hard or something, then I can’t help you.

  • avatar

    Well. That my dear friend depends on the warranty service. BBB is your friend here. Find out who has the least complaints then look at the fine print.

    you will typically find that more annoying things will break than big things on that audi. Window motors, seat motors, the windshield wiper motor, wiring issues with the trunk release, center stack issues with the NAV, stereo and heater blower are pretty common. *MOST* warranties will not cover these unless you get the top tier “platinum” version.

    For hardware, second TIER is normally good but you NEED TO ASK QUESTIONS… if you blow a transmission they will likely replace it, but is there a “cap” on coverage ? Audi gear boxes are not cheap and break frequently when driving moderately hard. Also ask for the example dead gear box if that warranty covers fuses, wiring harnesses, gaskets fluids and bolts and nuts.. a lot if warranties don’t cover the “”accessories”” even if they are specifically for the gear box. worse.. they wont cover the labor for the harness,bolts,gaskets and force the dealer to bill out SEPARATELY for those items.

    Just ask for a explanation in witting for the common fail points and keep it on record.

    Audi’s need love for wiring and gear boxes, *Especially* FOR awd MODELS.

  • avatar
    Nicholas Weaver

    The only extended warrantee I’d ever touch would be one from the maker, not the aftermarket: Too many traps in the aftermarket business to be worth touching, while the maker does have reputation to deal with.

    But at the same time, OH MY &@#)*(#@ GOD, that is an expensive warrantee. If the seller expects to make a $700 profit (a HUGE profit margin, BTW), they are assuming your car is expected to pay out $4k in covered repairs in the next 50k miles: this doesn’t even include all the stuff they weasel out of paying for.

    Compare with the Honda extended warantee when I got my used S2000 for the same sort of duration: that was a little over $1K, and I think they overcharged…

    Basically, the warantee company is saying: “You WILL pay for $4k+ in repairs over the next 50k miles, and probably considerably more because we are remarkably good at weaseling out of paying for things”.

    This is bad, bad bad bad bad. This is the warantee company saying “Hey, you should probably sell this and get a more reliable vehicle instead. Like, oh, say, a Yugo or Trabant”.

    • 0 avatar

      Per a friend in the biz, the dealership gets 25-50% of the price of the warranty on these things. So that means they are expecting to pay out something less than 1/2 of the price.

      I find it rather difficult to get excited over $4-5K in repairs over 50K miles on an *$55K* car. He lost more than that in depreciation when he drove it off the lot. Maintenance and repairs are rounding error by comparison. You will spend way more than that on gas over 50K miles. And chances are, it won’t be anywhere near that much in covered repairs anyway.

    • 0 avatar

      Omgz, it’s warranty. Spelled in the article several times for you.

  • avatar

    $4700!!!!!!!!! Holy crap, there are alot of used cars I could get for that price to last that same amount of time.

  • avatar

    My extended warranty consists of at least one additional car and a well-stocked tool chest.

  • avatar
    White Shadow

    Late model Audis are fairly reliable vehicles. I own a 2011 Audi and my factory warranty is due to expire next year…but I don’t really care. I’m not buy an extended warranty. If something goes wrong, I’ll either fix it myself or pay someone else to fix it for me if need be.

    Most people never recoup the money they spent on a warranty. That’s a fact!

    • 0 avatar

      If something goes wrong, I’ll either fix it myself or pay someone else to fix it for me if need be.

      An accurate description of how all broken objects become fixed.

  • avatar


    I thought those Extendo-Warranties were scams.

    Here in St. Louis, we are home to one of the largest third party warranty scams ever created (Google search U.S. Fidelis, Atkinson Brothers for an entertaining read).

    They also built one of the largest homes in the state, IIRC.

    Since then, lol, just say no to extended warranties.

    But go ahead and jump in if you’d like. I think I’ll just sit on the sidelines and watch how that “program” works out for you :)

  • avatar

    To the original poster:

    I disagree with most of the posts above.
    I have an A6 Avant.
    Get the extended warranty directly from Audi.
    Shop around and get multiple bids, you can even buy it from out of state dealer.
    You can probably save another $1000 off the price quoted, and it is worth the piece of mind. Because the company is well integrated with Audi, there is no hassle at the dealership, and it is a nice experience.
    Not to mention it is transferrable and will make selling the car easier…

  • avatar

    Hi Gang – I am the “Chris” mentioned in the article. So, I originally asked Sajeev about this a month and a half ago.

    To comment on a few items: Yes, my independent mechanic did recommend this warranty, and he is in no way connected to the company that I bought the warranty through. With that being said, I decided that the extended warranty would be worth it since I have had issues with the car.

    Since I’ve had my S5, it’s been to the dealer several times:
    1) Engine Control Module Failed
    2) Oil Pressure Light
    3) Engine Latch Sensor Failed
    4) Fuel Injectors Failed
    5) Carbon Cleaned from Intake Manifold

    I previously had a Porsche Cayman that needed a new transmission (talk about a holy wrath of god repair bill) which is what pushed me into the S5. (I really wish I had purchased another Cayman, but that is another story.) The dealers here in Texas wouldn’t sell the CPO warranty to me – only additional extended warranties. In retrospect, I should have bought a CPO car (again another story.)

    The other piece of information factoring into this is, in a couple weeks I am putting much of my liquid cash into a house and wanted to be covered while rebuilding my savings. I feel like I have made a whole host of bad decisions with buying this car, and was just hoping to cover myself.

    All in all – I love German cars – and will likely always own one.


    • 0 avatar

      Hi Chris… I’ll add this bit of information —

      I bought a used 1993 Mazda RX-7 FD back in 1999 or so. The car was bought from a used car dealer who specialized in that make and model. He had sold many and always recommended aftermarket insurance. I bought the insurance it turned out to be one of the best decisions I had ever made.

      Turns out the underwriters didn’t really know the repair costs for such a car. They are tremendously fragile and this one in particular had been sitting in the Texas sun for over a year before I bought it. The interior plastics were brittle and after a would-be car thief attempted to steal the radio, the entire dash and center console shattered.

      On top of that, I brought the car in for turbo replacement, radiator/water pump replacement, etc…

      Bottom line is — the insurance co and underwriter want to make money. If they do their calculations right, they will. If they don’t, as they didn’t in my case, you will win the day.

      Do you think the insurance co knows your particular car well enough to make money?

    • 0 avatar

      Carbon build-up cleaning is covered by Audi up to 100K miles. They extended the warranty in response to customer complaints about the issue. You should have received a letter from Audi regarding that, check with AoA to confirm.
      Your particular engine will keep fouling up with carbon deposits and while Audi will pay for clean-up, it will surely be a reactive measure as opposed to a preventative one. I’m speculating but I guess this will have a material effect on the engine’s longevity. If I were you, I’d take one risk at a time. Get settled in your new home, sell the Audi, lease a new BMW for a while (or an Audi if you must – more expensive though). When you’re set, get whatever car you want again. And for Pete’s sake, don’t do cap cost reduction (down payment) on a lease like some have suggested here. It makes no financial sense.

      By the way, 4.7K is about 1K more than I was quoted to extend the warranty on my old Q7 (same coverage as CPO, they said). Lots of exclusions, I didn’t go for it. The car had a number of issues and I ended up selling it because of them (and bought a new one, same overall cost of ownership, no risk and more importantly no aggravation).

      Good luck with your choice either way!

  • avatar

    $4700.00 for an extended warranty just goes to show you how expensive these cars are to fix and maintain. This seems to be the norm for German and most European makes. I have always owned American makes and never encountered any expensive repairs and never purchased a extended warranty. Dump the Audi and buy a American make. That $4700.00 will be much better spent.

  • avatar

    If the aftermarket warranty companies worked the way they were supposed to, I could see someone making a case for them. But my experience is they are very adversarial and it’s not going to give you a “risk free” experience.

    I’d even be leery of “factory” extended warranties, my father had one on his Ford Expedition and they were splitting hairs on issues despite the fact he never had a single claim. The “new” warranty on a “new” car is usually the only time it’s basically a no questions asked type experience with near zero risk.

  • avatar
    87 Morgan

    Seems to me, if you have owned this car since new or near new and you are seriously considering paying $4700 for what equates to piece of mind your TRADE NOW light has turned on.

    You are buying a home, come back to über German Luxo barge later when you can afford it or think you can afford it.

    What do you do when it is fourth and forty? You punt………..

  • avatar
    Secret Hi5

    Make sure the insurance provider has an established history. If it suddenly goes out of business, kiss your up-front payment goodbye.

  • avatar

    I never bet against the house.

    • 0 avatar

      True but you can get lucky or choose to bet wisely. See my story above. Sometimes the house doesn’t really know the odds… In the case of the Audi, I wouldn’t bet against the house, though.

  • avatar

    Seems what you’d wind up paying besides your deductible is about $940.00 a year on insurance. Seems cheap to drive an Audi … I’d take that deal now on a 2010, but I had one of the old 5000’s, a beater from a contractor (I could have stocked a Menard’s with the drywall screws, etc, I fished out of every cranny of that wagon) and the basic build was solid. The ‘accessories’, were dead, dying or mutated into something they weren’t designed to be, and he’d left stuff like the brakes (rear) in shabby shape as well. The suspension wouldn’t let me get past the Illinois smog check, so I dumped it. Radio, a couple of stations (I learned to hate Mancow Muller) no a/c, sometimey heat and defog, and all the little others had died as well, no underdashlight, stuff like that. It started and ran, I even jumped a couple of big suv’s off that under the back seat battery. I’d say 900/yr is cheap insurance, if it’s GOOD insurance.

  • avatar

    An extended warranty on a used Audi is probably a good idea, but I wouldn’t buy one from anyone other than a reputable source–like perhaps a new car manufacturer. That said, I bought a used Mazda 6 from an Infiniti dealer, with a Nissan extended warranty. The warranty from Nissan covered everything as if my car was a Nissan or Infiniti, and not an off-brand. It more than paid for itself.

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