Piston Slap: Unfit to Charge… an Accord?

Sajeev Mehta
by Sajeev Mehta

(Yes, this is the third consecutive post about batteries, so please accept my apology and I promise next week will be a different subject. -SM)

TTAC Commentator civicjohn writes:

Sajeev,

My daughter is at college 200 miles away from me. She called me on the way to work and said that she thought her battery was going dead, because she got the dreaded “clicking” noise while trying to start it. The battery was replaced about 3 years ago, and the alternator and starter were checked and found to be ok.

The car is a 2007 Honda Accord EX-L with 95k miles on it, all service done by the dealer, timing belt changed at 75k, all fluids, everything up to date (I always took it to the dealership; I know I overpaid, but it has a pristine service record).

So I’m about to order a battery from an auto parts store that will install it for no charge, I’m cool with that, but is there any advice on what type of battery I should get? I’ve picked one out, it has a 1-year replacement warranty. Should I spend more, or do I just plan on replacing the battery every 3 years or so?

The car is pristine, she learned how to drive in that car, and I hate to see her sign up for a new car loan when I’ve had friends that have got 150k + service out of these cars. Also, I’ve read about putting vaseline on the terminals, etc. Do any of these tricks extend the battery life?

Sajeev answers:

Yes, I emailed the OP shortly after receiving the email, but now we can expand on my initial response. Because a 3-year-old battery needing replacement sounds right: this only cements my opinion on the last two Piston Slaps!

If you’re gonna keep this Accord for many more years, the best replacement battery is the one with the longest replacement warranty. While they may/may not be better quality, the longer warranty ensures you get more of your money back as time goes by. The best warranty these days seems to be a 3-year free replacement, with an extra 2 years pro-rated replacement.

So get the super-mega-warrantied battery from the easiest place to redeem said purchase when it fails. Why? Because I have tried most major retailers and I see no difference in the quality of their respective brands, I find them all equally disappointing.

That said, if you do a lot of commuting in the middle of nowhere, Walmart is my choice. You can always get towed to a Walmart, right? I live within walking distance to an Autozone, so that’s my jam. I could drive to two other parts stores nearby, but whatever, I know the folks that work there and they are good to me.

I don’t know any tricks to extend battery life, other than keeping it clean, topped up with water (when applicable!), and ensure the power/ground wires aren’t corroded (externally or internally). And don’t use vaseline, use dielectric grease instead. It has a million uses!

But even better, I’d pay for the battery spray instead, as it leaves less residue, virtually no mess. You could spring for those red/green felt pads, but those are likely overkill if corrosion hasn’t been a problem in the past.

Best and Brightest?[Image: Honda]Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry…but be realistic, and use your make/model specific forums instead of TTAC for more timely advice.
Sajeev Mehta
Sajeev Mehta

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  • Opus Opus on Oct 15, 2019

    Can't believe how many are saying 3 years is normal for a battery. I'm pissed if I don't get at least 6, and that's not unusual at all. My daughter's 2011 Mustang (140,000 miles) is just starting to show some weakness and it still has the factory battery.

  • Starskeptic Starskeptic on Oct 25, 2019

    The original Mazda-branded battery in my '02 Protege5 lasted 9 years - most of which was in Arizona...

  • George How Could the old car have any connection with the new car as performance and wheel size?
  • ToolGuy Spouse drives 3 miles one-way to work 5 days a week. Would love to have a cheap (used) little zippy EV, but also takes the occasional 200 mile one-way trip. 30 miles a week doesn't burn a lot of fuel, so the math doesn't work. ICE for now, and the 'new' (used) ICE gets worse fuel economy than the vehicle it will replace (oh no!). [It will also go on some longer trips and should be a good long-distance cruiser.] Several years from now there will (should) be many (used) EVs which will crush the short-commute-plus-medium-road-trip role (at the right acquisition cost). Spouse can be done with gasoline, I can be done with head gaskets, and why would I possibly consider hybrid or PHEV at that point.
  • FreedMike The test of a good design is whether it still looks good years down the line. And Sacco's stuff - particularly the W124 - still looks clean, elegant, and stylish, like a well tailored business suit.
  • Jeff Corey thank you for another great article and a great tribute to Bruno Sacco.
  • 1995 SC They cost more while not doing anything ICE can't already do
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