Piston Slap: The Kid's Got a Point, Dear

Sajeev Mehta
by Sajeev Mehta

TTAC Commentator Silent Ricochet writes:

Hi Sajeev, I am the owner of a 2002 Chevrolet Cavalier Z24 (has the 2.4L LDR motor in it) with about 128,000 Miles on it. I being a teenager, have my fun with it, but also baby it when it’s cold out, let it warm up plenty, even in the summer, and give it an oil change every 3000 Miles; no excuses. The car has a 5-speed Manual Gearbox, and I’m trying to figure out this awful noise that comes from my car when shifting from time to time. In any gear, other than first, if the RPM’s are too low for that gear (usually under 2000 RPM), the engine is kinda sluggish (that’s expected). What isn’t expected is this weird metallic vibrating sound that comes out of my car. Happens often when being in too high of a gear when going around a turn (even in 2nd gear, and I can’t put the car in 1st around a turn unless I’m doing under like 5 MPH). Pressing the gas harder to raise my RPM’s quicker does nothing, if anything just amplifies the sound, so What I must do is either downshift to a lower gear if possible, or just lightly hold my foot on the gas until I get back into my Torque band around 2400RPM. The noise can be hear well outside of the car, as I get looks from people walking by when the noise is made, and I can even hear it reverberate off the houses in my neighborhood when my windows are down. What is this noise and is it a cause for concern?

Sajeev Answers:

Being a teenager with a hot-ish stick shift car, you like to “hoon” around, right? If so, today’s is your lucky day, because you’re getting the hot-rodder’s equivalent of money in the bank: a busted component that is cheaply replaced with a go-fast part.

Pretend you live in a stereotypical 1950s TV family sitcom; your (nuclear) family is sitting down at a sea foam green dinette set for dinner. Mashed Potatoes, beef and nothing made with high fructose corn syrup. You tell Mom and Dad about the “ruckus” you make in the neighborhood, and the fun and cheap fix for it. When mentioning the fix/performance upgrade, Mom frowns. Your little brother giggles. And Dad, with a slightly evil grin says, “the kid’s got a point, Dear.”

If the Z24 makes that much of a racket around the neighborhood at low rpms, there’s only one explanation. That’s right, my guess is an exhaust issue. Loading the motor like this is known to exacerbate a loose or rusty rattle in the exhaust system. And if you live in the rust belt, you can “bet your sweet bippy” that one or more exhaust part is rusted to the point of rattle.

So here’s the advice: find a (non-franchise preferred) exhaust shop in town and ask them to look under your ride. I suspect the rattle is a heat shield on the catalytic convertor, but it could be any welded point on the system. Bad mufflers or resonators are entirely possible. And remember, if you can replace it with an OEM-equivalent part, you can do better in the aftermarket for about the same. But please, no ricer fart pipes, keep the upgrades sane.

Send your queries to mehta@ttac.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

Sajeev Mehta
Sajeev Mehta

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  • JimC JimC on Nov 15, 2010

    I think everybody pretty much whipped the noise issue. For the 2-1 downshift, yeah, don't bother shifting into 1st unless you're almost stopped. Even as late as the 1950s and 1960s there were still manual transmissions built with non-synchro first gear. Food for thought. But... Why is your 2-1 so difficult? At 128,000 miles it is worth your while to change your transaxle oil- just make sure you do it right (get the right oil, remove the filler plug before you remove the drain... just in case the filler won't budge, be careful not to underfill on the refill). That and some parts of the clutch might be wearing out- is there a freeplay adjustment on these cars? (Not all manual transmission cars have that though.)

  • MRL325i MRL325i on Nov 15, 2010

    Slightly OT, I looked at one of these today as a first car for my son. It was a 2000 Z24 with an autobox. The guy kept it in very good shape, and it had less than 60k on it. But, man, what a POS. The I could feel the frame under the seat cushion, the doors needed a good slam to latch -- just everything about it seemed bean counted to death. Maybe it is a decent car, but I couldn't get past the overall crappiness of the thing.

  • Dr.Nick What about Infiniti? Some of those cars might be interesting, whereas not much at Nissan interest me other than the Z which is probably big bucks.
  • Dave Holzman My '08 Civic (stick, 159k on the clock) is my favorite car that I've ever owned. If I had to choose between the current Civic and Corolla, I'd test drive 'em (with stick), and see how they felt. But I'd be approaching this choice partial to the Civic. I would not want any sort of automatic transmission, or the turbo engine.
  • Merc190 I would say Civic Si all the way if it still revved to 8300 rpm with no turbo. But nowadays I would pick the Corolla because I think they have a more clear idea on their respective models identity and mission. I also believe Toyota has a higher standard for quality.
  • Dave Holzman I think we're mixing up a few things here. I won't swear to it, but I'd be damned surprised if they were putting fire retardant in the seats of any cars from the '50s, or even the '60s. I can't quite conjure up the new car smell of the '57 Chevy my parents bought on October 17th of that year... but I could do so--vividly--until the last five years or so. I loved that scent, and when I smelled it, I could see the snow on Hollis Street in Cambridge Mass, as one or the other parent got ready to drive me to nursery school, and I could remember staring up at the sky on Christmas Eve, 1957, wondering if I might see Santa Claus flying overhead in his sleigh. No, I don't think the fire retardant on the foam in the seats of 21st (and maybe late 20th) century cars has anything to do with new car smell. (That doesn't mean new car small lacked toxicity--it probably had some.)
  • ToolGuy Is this a website or a podcast with homework? You want me to answer the QOTD before I listen to the podcast? Last time I worked on one of our vehicles (2010 RAV4 2.5L L4) was this past week -- replaced the right front passenger window regulator (only problem turned out to be two loose screws, but went ahead and installed the new part), replaced a bulb in the dash, finally ordered new upper dash finishers (non-OEM) because I cracked one of them ~2 years ago.Looked at the mileage (157K) and scratched my head and proactively ordered plugs, coils, PCV valve, air filter and a spare oil filter, plus a new oil filter housing (for the weirdo cartridge-type filter). Those might go in tomorrow. Is this interesting to you? It ain't that interesting to me. 😉The more intriguing part to me, is I have noticed some 'blowby' (but is it) when the oil filler cap is removed which I don't think was there before. But of course I'm old and forgetful. Is it worth doing a compression test? Leakdown test? Perhaps if a guy were already replacing the plugs...
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