Tracking the Lot Time of Used Cars Can Save You Money

Bozi Tatarevic
by Bozi Tatarevic

Going to visit a dealer on a rainy day or the third Sunday after a holiday might not help you get a better deal on a used car, but tracking how long it’s been sitting on the lot may work in your favor. Aged inventory takes up valuable lot space while interest adds up every day motivating most dealers to drop the price to sell it quickly.

Most cars arrive on a dealer lot arrive from wholesale auctions or customer trade-in and are paid out from dealer funds or by a loan through floorplan financing. As with most loans, interest and fees are paid until the loan is satisfied for the floorplan. Each day of interest cuts into the potential profit for a vehicle so dealers try to move inventory as quickly as possible.

Friends often tell me that they have seen the car they want sitting on a lot for a month or so and ask why it isn’t deeply discounted already since it’s been there for a long time in their eyes. Dealers have a slightly different definition of a long time on the lot and month old inventory is right in its sweet spot to sell. Generally speaking, dealers consider a unit as old inventory once it passes the 3 month mark.

The first round of pricing on a vehicle is usually set on the expensive end with the hope someone will come in who hasn’t researched the pricing or really wants that specific model — but as it’s set hopefully high, it only lasts for a couple of weeks. The price gets reduced closer to the market average around weeks 3 and 4 and stays in that range until it hits the 60 day mark. Some dealers reduce the price once more at this point. However, the biggest reductions usually occur once the car has been on the lot for 90 days.

Generally the vehicle gets reduced very close to cost once it hits the 90 day mark in the hope that it will sell without having to go to wholesale auction. Some dealers will send cars to auction on the first available date once they pass the 90 day threshold, but others may wait 120 or 150 days and try their chances to break even. This is the best period to buy the car as most dealers will be willing to sell it between the auction value and their cost so they can at least save on the auction fees. The risky part is that most vehicles will sell well before hitting this range and you may miss out on the vehicle you are looking for.

Certified Pre-Owned vehicles are a special case as they require a specific measure of reconditioning to be performed along with a certification fee of $500 to $2,500 to be paid to the manufacturer. In some cases, if these vehicles are slow sellers, the dealer may roll back the certification if the manufacturer allows it and sell it as a standard used car. Once the CPO certification is removed, the vehicle loses the attached warranty and the dealer is not required to pay the certification fee. There are exceptions to these guidelines as I have seen dealers stubbornly hold on to a vehicle at a set price because they have too much time or money invested into it and don’t want to feel the loss.

Knowing the general schedule is helpful but most people are not willing to drive by a dealership every week to record how long a car has been on the lot. In this case, using online tools is very helpful. An easy first check is to look at the Carfax report if it’s available as it will usually show an entry stating “Vehicle offered for sale” which will match the first day that the vehicle is available on the lot. I also like to use CarGurus.com as they show a breakdown of how long a vehicle has been listed there and a history of the price drops and increases.

Tracking the car price and waiting is beneficial if you are not in a hurry to buy or the car is plentiful, but the best path to purchase is to research a fair price and offer that to the dealer. If they do not accept your offer you can always leave them your contact information and tell them to contact you if the car does not sell and they drop the price.

[Screenshot: CarGurus.com]

Bozi Tatarevic
Bozi Tatarevic

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  • -Nate -Nate on Sep 04, 2015

    " V6 FWD D-platform vehicles are good used cars." I don't know what a ' d Platform ' is , I got a screaming deal on a low mileage 1991 V6 Camry , never smoked in and ice cold AC , it blew the head gasket the first hot day I took it on the freeway full of people.... Oops . My buddy who works for Toyota and is now laughing as he reads this told me after I bothered to ASK , that all V6 Toylettas are suspect after 60,000 miles or so , I'd foolishly bought a grenade with the pin already pulled . -Nate

    • Matador Matador on Sep 05, 2015

      The D3 platform is what underpinned the Taurus and Five Hundred (Among other models)

  • Mwjr Mwjr on Dec 12, 2016

    I've been using iSeeCars.com to track listing age. So far this is the best research tool for finding every car on the internet.

  • Dr.Nick What about Infiniti? Some of those cars might be interesting, whereas not much at Nissan interest me other than the Z which is probably big bucks.
  • Dave Holzman My '08 Civic (stick, 159k on the clock) is my favorite car that I've ever owned. If I had to choose between the current Civic and Corolla, I'd test drive 'em (with stick), and see how they felt. But I'd be approaching this choice partial to the Civic. I would not want any sort of automatic transmission, or the turbo engine.
  • Merc190 I would say Civic Si all the way if it still revved to 8300 rpm with no turbo. But nowadays I would pick the Corolla because I think they have a more clear idea on their respective models identity and mission. I also believe Toyota has a higher standard for quality.
  • Dave Holzman I think we're mixing up a few things here. I won't swear to it, but I'd be damned surprised if they were putting fire retardant in the seats of any cars from the '50s, or even the '60s. I can't quite conjure up the new car smell of the '57 Chevy my parents bought on October 17th of that year... but I could do so--vividly--until the last five years or so. I loved that scent, and when I smelled it, I could see the snow on Hollis Street in Cambridge Mass, as one or the other parent got ready to drive me to nursery school, and I could remember staring up at the sky on Christmas Eve, 1957, wondering if I might see Santa Claus flying overhead in his sleigh. No, I don't think the fire retardant on the foam in the seats of 21st (and maybe late 20th) century cars has anything to do with new car smell. (That doesn't mean new car small lacked toxicity--it probably had some.)
  • ToolGuy Is this a website or a podcast with homework? You want me to answer the QOTD before I listen to the podcast? Last time I worked on one of our vehicles (2010 RAV4 2.5L L4) was this past week -- replaced the right front passenger window regulator (only problem turned out to be two loose screws, but went ahead and installed the new part), replaced a bulb in the dash, finally ordered new upper dash finishers (non-OEM) because I cracked one of them ~2 years ago.Looked at the mileage (157K) and scratched my head and proactively ordered plugs, coils, PCV valve, air filter and a spare oil filter, plus a new oil filter housing (for the weirdo cartridge-type filter). Those might go in tomorrow. Is this interesting to you? It ain't that interesting to me. 😉The more intriguing part to me, is I have noticed some 'blowby' (but is it) when the oil filler cap is removed which I don't think was there before. But of course I'm old and forgetful. Is it worth doing a compression test? Leakdown test? Perhaps if a guy were already replacing the plugs...
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