By on July 29, 2014
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Whatever you call them, everyone can agree that wheels need to be clean in order to look good. Whether they are the 14″ wheels that came with your new Mitsubishi Mirage, of the monster 22s that come on a Escalade, keeping your wheels clean can make or break your vehicle’s appearance.

Am I the only one who judges people that drive nice cars with really dirty wheels? I don’t mean to. Inside I know the cleanliness of your wheels doesn’t really say anything about you as a person… but I can’t help it. I think to myself, “So you can afford your lease on that M5, but somehow you don’t have 3 minutes every few weeks to wipe off the wheels? Does that mean you also don’t have time to check the tire pressure, change the oil, water your plants, feed your dog…? What’s wrong with you man! Feed your dog and give that car to someone who would appreciate it.” Never does it dawn on me that perhaps not everyone values clean wheels as much as I do. Call me shallow if you want, but when my car’s wheels are real clean it makes me happy. I swear I enjoy driving my car more when the wheels are clean, even though I obviously can’t seen them from the driver’s seat.
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Nothing beats the shine of some finely polished automotive wheels. Like a new engagement ring being shown off, nice car wheels seem to accentuate every angle of light hitting the surrounding metal. Sitting still or moving on the highway, you can’t but notice them.
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There are a variety of materials that wheels can come in. As with all my detailing articles, this is for the average car owner using tools that most people have at home. Since most cars come with clear coated alloy wheels today, that is what I’ll look at. If you are confident you know the material of your wheels, there are specific tools and chemicals that can be purchased for it. Just be careful, some chemicals can damage wheels when used on the wrong material. Roughcast aluminum and chrome can withstand stronger cleaners than coated, painted, or anodized wheels. The cleaner will say what it is suited for on the label. For example, Mother’s All Purpose Wheel Mist can be used on any type of wheel, but their Chrome/Wire Wheel Cleaner is not safe for coated wheels, so read carefully. If you are not sure what kind of wheels you have, use a cleaner that is safe for all wheels. I use a water based wheel cleaner from Meguiars that is safe for all wheels and also loosens dirt on tires. In general always use the least aggressive cleaners first, and preferably no chemicals at all.
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So how do you know if you need to clean them? Let’s just say that when your wheels are turning the color of your tires, its time to take action. I understand we are all busy but the thing is, cleaning your wheels doesn’t have to take long at all. Once you have them clean, it is easy to wipe them off every couple weeks with a dry towel. Brake dust is from the devil, this I’m sure of. Not only does it look bad, but it is corrosive as well. This means that not only am I silently judging you when I see your dirty wheels, but you are also potentially damaging the finish on your rims. If left for too long, it can eat into the coating (if there is one) and pit the metal.
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We will start by assuming you are looking at a pretty dirty set of wheels that haven’t been cleaned a while, like this set from a Boxster. In this case, I’d say just go to the nearest automatic car wash and make sure to pay extra for the wheel cleaner. Just kidding that’s a terrible idea, I just wanted to just see who was paying attention. Automatic car washes don’t do crap for your wheels. There I said it. Plus they have been known to use acid based cleaners and abrasive brushes. I recommend a first step of using an all purpose water based wheel cleaning product. Most of the major brands offer a product like this. I like to use a cleaner that works on the tires, too. Whenever you are cleaning wheels, I think you should also clean the tires and wheel wells at the same time so begin by spraying just a little water on the wheel, tire, and up into the wheel well.
It is very important that you have a specific wheel cleaning sponge. The sponge can be used to clean wheels, tires, and wheel wells only. It is not worth the risk to have brake dust stuck in a sponge scratch your paint. If you don’t want to read any further I’d understand, but at least promise me you’ll get a sponge you designate as your “wheel” sponge. Thanks, it means a lot to me.
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After wetting the wheel go ahead and spray the wheel, tire, and wheel well liberally with your mild cleaning product. It is important to never let the wheel cleaner dry on the wheel. Follow the instructions on the bottle, but it’s usually less than 1 minute of soaking time needed, which means you should always work on one wheel at a time.
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Then scrub the wheel with your sponge. Dipping your sponge in a bucket of car wash doesn’t hurt. Make sure to get all the difference angles of the spokes. In my opinion it is not necessary to reach inside the face of the rim and clean on all wheels designs. If the spokes are far enough apart that you can easily see behind them, then it makes a big difference to clean that area though. On this Boxster example, I got my whole arm in there to clean the entire thing.
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If your wheels haven’t been cleaned recently, this step may not get all the dirt/dust in the corners, but that’s ok. Leave it for now.
After scrubbing the wheel, I run the sponge over the tire, then also wipe down the wheel well. This is important because you shouldn’t be cleaning any of those things with the same sponge you use on that paint later. Now spray off the wheel using the strongest setting you have on your nozzle. After each wheel, spray off the sponge to remove all the junk you just got off your wheels, especially if there was some dirt and mud in the wheel wells. Repeat for each wheel, but you’re not finished yet.
Once the wheel is dry it is time to get serious. That is when I recommend using a product called Nevr-Dull. Basically it cleans and polishes metal automotive surfaces while removing brake dust, rust, and corrosion. But that doesn’t really do it justice. Lots of products make similar claims, but let me tell you that this product actually does what it says it will do. Of all the wheel polishes out there, this is the only one I have seen consistent results with. This stuff has been around since Roosevelt was in office, so it is a time tested product you can trust.
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The product is cotton wadding soaked in solvents that can be used on any metal surface. Rip off a wad about the size of a cherry tomato and begin rubbing it all over the wheels. Really scrub spots where there is pitting from brake dust. With enough elbow grease, most brake dust and corrosion will come clean.
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With no harmful abrasives, it’s safe too. Cover the entire face of the wheel and all the little crevices. Even parts that were already clean will be need to be wiped with the cotton. Once you do this process to each wheel, make sure you hit the exhaust pipe if you have a finished tip that can be shined. Then you wait. Depending on the weather it usually takes about 30 minutes for the product to dry to a haze.
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Grab a towel and begin wiping off the haze. You may want to wear some sunglasses for this part because your wheels are going to be crazy shiny! Don’t worry about using too much Never-Dull. The can says the shelf life is about 2 years, meaning it’s really difficult to ever use up the whole can before it begins to dry out (though I have some that is older than that and still works great).
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Once your wheels are clean, it is MUCH easier to maintain them. If you have 3 minutes to wipe them down with a dry towel once a week you’d be amazed at how great they will continue to look. It doesn’t always have to be this long cleaning process. Keeping wheels relatively clean on a more regular basis is much easier than trying to restore them once the brake dust has set in and the road salts and acids have taken their toll.
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Nevr-Dull even adds a layer of protection for the future and can safety be used on chrome and other wheel finishes. I’ve heard of people using it clean to everything from drum cymbals to chrome valve covers.

There are lots of wheel brushes on the market, but I’ve yet to find one that I like. The ones I have tried all have metal components to them that can easily scratch wheels when you scrub hard. Other than a towel and elbow grease, the only other tool I will consider using is a soft tooth brush to get around lug nuts. I’ve heard of all kinds of crazy things used to clean wheels like aluminum foil soaked in Coke, vinegar, and lemon juice. The only real out of the box product I’ve seen work was actually oven cleaner, though I wouldn’t really recommend it (it was used as a last ditch effort to save some 25+ year old wheels that had no clear coat and years of oxidation). I’ve tried the Mother’s Polish Power Ball and similar products, and they work great, but I’ve never seen them do anything I couldn’t do myself with elbow grease. Let us know what tools you have used that work well for you. Of course there is the other option of installing brake dust shields, but I’ve never seen any that look good. Next time we’ll take a look at tire dressing.

Additional Tips:
-To do a thorough job you really need to take the wheels off the car to get to the back, but obviously that can be quite a hassle. Twice a year when I’m switching from summer to winter wheels/tires I clean them when they are off the car. This is also a good time to apply a good coat of wax.
-Despite what you have heard, don’t use steel wool on your wheels.
-You can clay bar a wheel as well, but never use the same piece of clay on a wheel as the paint.

 

How often I do it:
My car – Every 2 months
My wife’s car – Every 4 months
Another before and after to encourage you to try this on your wheels:
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61 Comments on “Spare Me the Details: Cleaning Your Wheels, Rims, Shoes, Dubs…...”


  • avatar
    Sam Hell Jr

    I’m always worried about getting wheel cleaner on my brakes. Is there potential for damage there?

    • 0 avatar
      Steve-O

      Doubtful–one drive around the block to dry the brakes should alleviate any concern.

      Speaking of brakes, don’t forget to clean the calipers (if you can)!

    • 0 avatar
      Matt Fink

      The only time I have ever heard of a wheel cleaner damaging brakes was on a zinc coated rooter. I think if you stick with a mild wheel cleaner that is safe for all surfaces you should be fine. I’d avoid cleaning them when the brakes are hot as the cold water has a small chance of warping the rotors. Once you get them real clean, just maintain it every couple weeks and you won’t even have to use wheel cleaner.

  • avatar
    NormSV650

    The wheel are the most frequently cloSed part of my cars. The brakenpads are not the brakenpads culprit these days but road grime. A fresh coat of wax helps keep the hard to reach places like the inside of the wheel clean longer.

  • avatar
    TrailerTrash

    Sorry, Matt…but you lost me. Right after you tricked me into thinking you had a new way to clean.
    I was hoping you found some Holy Grail tool that would make this easier. For I as well feel like a better person with clean wheels.
    But noooooo. You just told me to get down and get dirty and scrub away for an hour! And keep a separate sponge for the job.
    Look…that ain’t helping!
    Why in hell isn’t there some decent soft yet strong bristled brush that can move around the entire wheel, easily moving in and out of the many different sized corners and shapes?
    Why are we forced to hurt our knuckles banging around into all these dirty little areas?
    Isn’t there such a cool brush?
    I MUST find this soft, yet sturdy bristled brush that can clean the many types of wheels on all my cars.

    • 0 avatar
      Tinn-Can

      I’ve got one of those… Found it at the dollar store… Also good for scrubbing bugs off your bumper… I really hate cleaning my wheels and then seeing the inside rim still dirty so I just don’t wash my car that often.

      • 0 avatar
        Matt Fink

        Any idea of what it was called? I’m curious. I’ve never found anything that was strong enough to clean bugs and and brake dust, yet soft enough to be safe on paint and wheels.

    • 0 avatar
      ClutchCarGo

      The variety of wheel designs and the complexity of any given design means that no one brush will ever serve the purpose. The small brush needed for tight spaces will be tedious on large expanses of spokes. But I would think that 2-3 sizes of handled nylon brushes would do the job without risking scratches or knuckles.

    • 0 avatar
      heavy handle

      I used to have a Zymol horse hair wheel brush that worked great. Only trouble is that the bristles fell out in clumps. I see they have a new model. The new one isn’t horse hair, but it may be worth a shot.

  • avatar
    Car Ramrod

    Thanks for the ideas Matt– I’ve not tried nevr-dull.

    Also, I think you’re doing better than most by cleaning your wife’s car half as often as your own– I’m guilty of far worse (though it wouldn’t kill her to pick up a microfiber once in a while, would it?)

    • 0 avatar
      Matt Fink

      Haha, thanks. It’s clear she thinks I’m wasting my time when I clean her wheels. It’s one of those things where you don’t notice the wheels on a van when they are clean… but if I didn’t clean them and they got real bad it’s very obvious.

    • 0 avatar
      Windy

      I have been using never-dull for more than 50 years first on a boat with lots of brass to keep polished. The stuff leaves a light film which retards dulling far better than a product like brasso though the brasso as a first step may be required on badly tarnished brass and copper…. If you have a brass age car you know that lacquered brass never looks as good as brass that has been polished for the run… Also getting the lacquer off when it tarnishes underneath is a major pain.
      Brasso is also abrasive so it really is not something you want to use all the time. NeverDull is not abrasive and is a great product for silver plated items as well… When used on cutlery though be sure you wash off the residue before eating with the forks and spoons.

      NeverDull non abrasive feature makes it great for polishing chrome that is in contact with paint too.

  • avatar
    scuzimi

    I’ve tried them all, well that I know about.

    I have matte finish, now hate them, red Sparco Assetto Gara’s. I find matte finish to be a pain in the ass and I’m having them powder coated gloss red.

    I now use Griot’s Heavy Duty Wheel Cleaner, period. Now of the others work like it. I did get a bit freaked when I saw red fluid coming off the rim but found out that’s just normal for this brand.

    http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/heavy-duty+wheel+cleaner+35+ounces.do?sortby=ourPicks

  • avatar
    mitchw

    I see many lux cars whose wheels are actually brake dust grim grey, straight from the factory. Sometimes I’ll notice the valve caps are missing too. What could possibly be the message here?

    • 0 avatar
      Felis Concolor

      Just like silver paint takes the longest to look crappy when left untouched, it simply states the owner does not spare the time to clean her or his automobile, and is pragmatic about how much time is spent between washings, or in fewer words: “I’m too lazy to wash my car.”

      And missing caps on a Schrader valve are really lax; a lot of area bicycle and tire shops will cheerfully give you a replacement unit free of charge.

      • 0 avatar
        56BelAire

        In many parts of the country now…especially in the western states, it is illegal to wash your car in your own driveway. Drought and runoff concerns trump car washing. They force you to use car-washes who now by code must recycle their water.

    • 0 avatar
      heavy handle

      I can see metal valve caps getting stolen, especially if they have prestigious emblems.

  • avatar
    LeMansteve

    On my BMW, I enjoy clean wheels as much as I enjoy the excellent brakes. Too bad they put off so much dust! Monthly cleanings are not enough. My next BMW will have grey or gunmetal wheels to hide the brake dust.

    • 0 avatar
      Matt Fink

      Maybe it’s the brakes, but I notice a lot of BMWs (and Minis) with very dirty wheels.

      • 0 avatar
        Windy

        MINI with so many wheel designs in white paint is very unforgiving with brake dust showing up so well on it. I have cleaned mine and then gone off on a 200 mile road trip of spirited driving on back roads to find them filthy at the end of the day… Perhaps the pads that they come with are partly at fault but they do need attention every tank full of gas.

        I keep a kozak cloth just for them that I use every time the tank is filling ( I drive until the low fuel light comes on every tankfull). http://www.kozak.com

      • 0 avatar
        LeMansteve

        It absolutely is the BMW brakes. They are well-known to produce excessive dust. I wonder if it is the same with other German luxury/performance brands like MB, Porsche and Audi. In all the other cars we’ve owned – Honda, Acura, VW, Nissan, Hyundai – none have accumulated brake dust on the wheels as quickly as the BMW. Also, none of those cars had excellent braking performance!

        From what I have read, BMW owners that swap in low-dust aftermarket pads usually have to give up some performance, mainly initial “bite”.

        • 0 avatar
          heavy handle

          I’ve switched from European OEM to Akebono ceramic pads on one car. The pedal feel is completely different, and I can see why you would want to stick with OEM if you did a lot of high-speed or mountain driving.

          I guess some people value the few minutes it takes to wash their car more than their ability to stop in an emergency, but I am switching back.

      • 0 avatar
        319583076

        The last time I was at the BMW/Mini service dept, I asked about low dust pads and the immediate response was some garbage about how BMW/Mini don’t make low-dust pads because the OEM pads are designed for “smooth” braking action. I hate the local BMW/Mini service.

        As a further example supporting my hatred – when I inquired about the 30,000 mile (or whatever interval it was) service, the service rep gave me a photocopied list for a BMW 7-series and said, “I know this says BMW, but it’s the same stuff.” I asked her if they really planned on inspecting the rear differential fluid on our Mini and she scoffed at me.

        As a result, I don’t take the Mini in for service anymore.

    • 0 avatar
      slance66

      On top of the huge amount of dust, the spokes on my 328 are very close together, I can’t get more than a few fingers in there to scrub it clean. Brutal and painful job.

  • avatar
    TEXN3

    Matt, great info! Have you, or would you, consider doing an article on restoring faded plastic (such as unpainted bumpers, jeep fenders, or un painted cladding), as well preventing them from fading over time.

    • 0 avatar
      psarhjinian

      Another suggestion; I asked this of Sajeev, but it may be more appropriate here: what about engine-compartment cleaning?

      I’ve got a veritable tar-sands of PS fluid and road grit. I’d like to deal with, but I don’t have a driveway or garage with a drain and I’m really loath to power-wash it at a carwash.

      • 0 avatar
        Eric @ Arete Auto Salon

        I highly suggest a mild chemical degreaser bath over the whole compartment (after taping and bagging sensitive electronics that shouldn’t get wet such as coil packs and the like.)If you’re confident you can follow it up with a pressure rinse but what I would do is just rinse it off with a hose on shower. That will loosen up some of the difficult “tar sands” so to speak. Then hit it with quick detailer and elbow grease (quick detailer that doesn’t contain waxes like ONR is preferable as to not leave streaking and specks).

    • 0 avatar
      Windy

      I agree the plastic on my 10 year old Mini Cooper S has faded badly and the black magic product I am using only lasts a short time and it does not really restore the grey plastic to its original shade any more…. I know some folks who have given up and spent the time sanding filling and painting the plastic with a plastic paint matched to the body color of their cars… The fade ing showed up after about 4 years on my garaged MINI. Are new cars today any better in the plastic formulations they use in terms of long term stability and fade resistance? I ask those who live in the desert southwest and do not garage their cars as they will see the problem first I guess if it is solar fade rather than pollution and washing products that cause the problem

      • 0 avatar
        TEXN3

        I’ve heard about using Penetrol, found in the paint dept of Home Depot/Lowes as a cheap solution. Like to know of other ideas before I go that route.

  • avatar
    Bored383

    I usually clean my wheels when I rotate my tires – just a lot easier that way

    • 0 avatar
      Scoutdude

      +1 or at least that is when I give my wheels the full on cleaning/detailing including getting all the gunk out of the inside of the wheel. Between rotations the front gets a quick wash when the car does.

    • 0 avatar
      ChevyIIfan

      Yep, I was thinking the same thing. My wheel openings are too small to clean inside the wheel without taking it off, so I always clean the outside every car wash then thoroughly clean and scrub the inner wheel when I take the tires off to rotate.

  • avatar

    Thanks for the write-up, Matt! Yeah, it really bugs me when I see an expensive European car with brake dust all over the wheels. The financial director at a university I used to visit had a really nice, late-model 7-Series. Everything else about it was always kept clean, but the wheels had so much brake dust on them, I’d thought they were powder-coated.

  • avatar
    Jeff Weimer

    Ah, Nev’r Dull, the Sailor’s best friend.

    As an alternative, you can use Brasso and an old t-shirt.

    Those two are great for polished but not chromed wheels.

  • avatar
    Eric @ Arete Auto Salon

    This article is great but presents a very labor intensive process. At the shop we let chemicals do the work for us. We tend to start with an iron removing wheel cleaner that is PH neutral. That melts away brake dust and other contaminants. You then scrub and rinse away the iron remover. At this point the wheels are already perfect looking. We then follow up with a silica wet application sealant and rinse that off as well. In 10 minutes all four wheels are clean and sealed. They bead water like crazy and the sealant repels dirt and dust and makes for such easy cleaning down the road. All said and done 2 products that don’t require tons of labor seem superior to the process presented here. I’d be happy to provide links to products if anyone is curious. Great article all around still! Building wheel cleaning awareness.

    • 0 avatar
      Matt Fink

      Hey I’m interested! I always try to write to the “average” car owner, but if this is stuff that anyone can buy I want to hear about.

    • 0 avatar
      319583076

      I’ll second that, I’d like to take a look at what you’re using.

    • 0 avatar
      joeyjojojuniorshabadoo

      There’s an Australian product called Bowden’s Wheely Clean that uses a very similar approach. Spray it on and watch the brake dust turn purple when it reacts with the cleaner. Only downside is that it smells like canned tuna.

  • avatar
    cbrworm

    Yeah, I clean my wheels every Sunday. By Tuesday they look gunmetal, by Friday they are black again. Hopefully people are not judging me by my wheels. On my Silver car, the brake dust leaves shadows on the paint behind the wheels.

  • avatar
    -Nate

    Ac good , helpful article .

    Sadly I have an old Mercedes with ” Bundt ” wheels and they’re designed to keep the brakes cool by out flowing the air so they turn black in about 7 days….

    Plus , I’m lazy although I suppose I could hide behind my being crippled , the truth is : I’m a lazy @$$ and the black wheels drive me bonkers ~ I have to wash them once a week or it looks like an abandoned car ~ how could M-B do this to us ! .

    I use spray on wheel & tire cleaner in the early morning before it gets hot and a 3″ $1 paint brush from the Dollar Store , it lasts a few months and I replace it .

    Brake dust eats right through your factory clear coat , paint or whatever .

    GRRrrr….

    -Nate

  • avatar
    Timothy

    Break dust is quite literally the bane of my existence. I’d seriously like to meet the designer of the 18″ rims that came on the ST and have a frank conversation about the fact that I have to use a toothbrush to get into the smaller openings of the rims. Most times it comes down to using my pinky finger to get into the really small spaces. Complete and utter pain in the ass.

    I clean them every week and still the pitting has started. Cheap OEM parts. Grr. Will definitely check out Nev’r Dull.

    • 0 avatar
      TheyBeRollin

      Do you have the silver or grey ones?

      Apparently STs use computer activation of the brakes to compensate for the lack of a limited-slip diff, to control understeer, and other handling purposes, so that’s probably the big problem for brake dust. Do they burn through front brakes notably faster?

      • 0 avatar
        JohnnyFirebird

        My SRT4 has the same thing, and yep, TONS of brake dust. My pads lasted a long time though.

        • 0 avatar
          Timothy

          23,000 miles of stop and go and some occasional hard driving on the twisties back home in Vermont, so not exceptionally hard use cycle. Last tire rotation and oil change and the breaks came back at 65% of original pad. So… they are lasting quite well considering all that they are being asked to do.

      • 0 avatar
        Timothy

        Silver :-( The grey with red calipers became available on the ’14 model year. It does use breaks as a stand in for limited slip and it does work very well. However, I rarely drive the car hard enough for it to “engage”. In other words it only becomes active in hard driving when slippage is detected.

        I do however have a stop and go commute for the better part of 15.2 miles in Boston traffic. So I scrub. And I scrub. And I scrub some more. Bloody knuckles be damned.

  • avatar
    mikey

    I judge all “car guys” by the state of their wheels. Sorry,

    40+ plus years ago I worked at a used car dealer. If you washed a car,and the tires and “wheel discs” were still dirty, The used car manager/ owner made you re do the whole car. To this day a hate white walls! ,or worse yet raised white letters.

    As part of my routine,I clean the tires, and wheels, with a light detergent, and use a old nail brush, and a toothbrush. With the Impala, an old kitchen sponge,does a great job getting between the spokes. The Mustang wheels are much easier, I can use a slightly soapy fibre cloth. I can get my hands into the grooves and corners , no problem.

    • 0 avatar

      Ha! You wouldn’t judge me too highly then. I wash my car once a week because I like it clean. But the wheels really don’t bother me. I hose it down and pass the soap, but don’t get on my hands and knees and pass a toothbrush in every crevice. Guess I’m just not a wheel and tyre guy as I think all of them are too freaking big nowadays.

  • avatar
    eggsalad

    Feel free to hate on me all you want, Matt. My car is for driving, not for cleaning or being seen in. When I put (used) MINI wheels on my ’05 Scion xB, I cleaned them. Haven’t cleaned them since, outside of drive-through car washes.

    I would rather be driving than cleaning rims. So sue me.

  • avatar
    05lgt

    Thanks Matt, count me as converted. The tires and oil were ok all along, but ignorance around the why as well as the how kept my wheels dark. I’ll do mine right away, and see how long it takes my wife to motivate me to do hers.

  • avatar
    JMII

    Thanks for the info, love these types of articles.

    Anyway here is my routine – instead of a separate sponge I got a wash glove (yes they sell them at the autoparts store), this saves your hands from getting all cut up by the darn caliper clips on your brakes, plus it allows you to reach all those tough little spots using your fingers.

    For cleaner I use Simple Green – spray the wheels with high pressure water to remove the lose dirt, then mist on the Simple Green, let it soak in for a bit then wipe off using the glove. When the Simple Green combines with water it should foam up a bit on it own, that is when the magic happens. If the rims are really dirty you might have to scrub a bit with the glove or mix some Simple Green in bucket and use those foamy suds to really work the dust off. Its not bad if you do it twice a month (every 2 weeks). I’ve tried various “wheel cleaners” and Simple Green cuts thru brake dust better then all of them. I also use Bar Keeper’s friend on my exhaust tips. However my rims are aluminum, not polished, so I just wipe them down with Turtle Wax “Ice”. This Ice stuff is pretty amazing, it works great on black plastic as well, its about the easiest and most flexible car “polish” I have ever used. Its not wax and will not make the car super shiny, but does add a smoothness quality to the paint that makes your car look really clean. Sorry for the infomerical but these are the products that work for me.

    After a day at the track your wheel really need some love! The insides of the rims will have little balls of melted rotor bits all over them due to the heat. I often wondered why people bough ugly matte gray rims (looked like primer paint too me)… then I started tracking my car and it made perfect sense – as a dark matte gray is pretty much the color your wheels become after a day of hard braking around a track.

  • avatar
    Alex Mackinnon

    Quite possibly the best thing I hadn’t expected on my Chevy Volt is that there’s almost no brake dust ever.

    Keeping the white rims on my old GTI is a constant pain in the ass.

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