By on April 4, 2011

The A100 Hell Project really isn’t very hellish, since the van is rust-free and still has most of its tough-to-find trim parts. However, the list of really irritating minor problems that must be solved to bring a project vehicle up to real-world-enjoyable status is always long. One of the most maddening was the busted window latch on one of the right-side windows. Chrysler changed the design on this latch— which probably cost about 14 cents per unit new— in the late 1960s, which means they’re very rare in junkyards, and nobody seems to be selling them on eBay. Snow and rain were getting in, the window clattered while driving, and anyone who wanted to rummage in the van for crack-exchangeable valuables could reach right in and pop the side door lock. What to do?

Ford Econolines of the 80s and 90s used a fairly similar window-latch design, and I could have modified one to work on the A100 without too much hassle. I’m trying to keep the correct trim components in the A100, as part of my 1973-style custom-van project, so the Econoline hack remained a last resort.

The super-low-budget pot-metal construction of the old latch failed at the bracket that mounts to the door frame. No way I could fix that and have it come out looking right.

But then Hooniverse writer Alex Kierstein dropped me an email, saying that he’d found an A100 in a Seattle wrecking yard. It was fairly well picked over, but still had a little meat clinging to its gnawed bones. Did I want anything? I sure did! In addition to the window latch, Alex grabbed me another item on my list: a non-trashed factory radio antenna. The stuff was on the way to Denver right away. Thanks, Alex!

Chrysler’s penny-pinching with sub-low-bidder parts suppliers, coupled with damp Pacific Northwest conditions, meant that the channel that mounts the latch to the window glass was hopelessly rusted and got pretty well mangled during removal. Fortunately, I only needed to replace part of my latch.

Some quick work with the drill on the rivet holding the lower bracket…

…and I’ve got the part that I need to fix my latch.

I had to be careful not to break the latch off the window, but this part of the job wasn’t difficult.

But a job like this always has at least one unexpected headache. All I need to do to remove the rest of the broken mounting bracket is remove three screws. What could go wrong?

Ka-tink! Wait, why did something fall inside the door when the last screw came out? Yes, Chrysler saved 0.4 cents per van by using an unsecured backing plate with three threaded holes, so that the bracket could be adjusted to compensate for flaky tolerances, rather than just eliminating the flakiness and screwing the bracket right into the door. The line worker simply set down his half-pint of Granddad, reached inside the door to hold the backing plate in place, and screwed the bracket down. Then the next line worker set down his flask of peach schnapps and kicked the door panel into place with his steel-toed boot. Meanwhile, Chrysler hired several new layers of management to find new ways to cut corners on parts quality, another layer of management to write reports on parts-quality corner cutting, and yet another layer to find ways to lower the quality of life for line workers, which jacked up their booze consumption to even more disastrous levels in the 1970s. The upshot of all this was that I had to remove the inside door handle, pry off the door panel, reach through a sharp-edged access hole, and root around in a bunch of 45-year-old schmutz to find the backing plate, which had fallen into a totally unreachable crevice. This was the most time-consuming part of the latch replacement process.

A quick trip to the hardware store and the rivet replacement goes on.

All fixed! Next on the list: do something about the disintegrating seat vinyl.

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14 Comments on “A Little Help From Hooniverse: Leaky Van Window Fixed With Long-Distance Junkyard Parts...”

  • avatar

    first comment: nice post, thanks!

  • avatar

    “Hooniverse”? What is with the word “hoon” in all its forms constantly popping up on TTAC? I understand it’s an Australian thing, but we don’t talk like that in these parts!

    Back to the subject at hand: You need the services of a good upholstery shop, or just buy new aftermarket seats and call it a day if you think it’s worth it. All depends on what the ultimate purpose of this van is.

    Speaking of long-distance parts, my friend had to get parts from the Netherlands for his Volvo PV544 a few years ago!

    • 0 avatar

      Hooniverse is a site founded by and populated with Jalopnik expatriates, among other enthusiasts, and manages to preserve many of the sensibilities that made Jalopnik great in its early years. It reinforces my belief that true enthusiasts have the good sense to avoid politics entirely.

    • 0 avatar

      Thanks, RR. That makes sense. When I first saw the word “hoon” and “hooning”, my first impression was “mooning” someone without dropping one’s pants! So much for what I think…now I know why my total visits over to “that” site remains at four.

  • avatar

    Cue Roseanne Roseannadanna voice:  “Its always somethin\'”

  • avatar

    Murilee needs to install some shag carpeting, a mirror ball, an 8-track tape player and some glow in the dark pot posters for that kewl 70x disco sex van vibe.

    • 0 avatar

      I think you forgot wood paneling for the interior walls. Or the self-installed odd-shaped portholes in the upper flanks, preferably cut in at an angle. Curtains on the rear doors and a curtain separating the cab from the cargo area. Might as well install a CB antenna for effect.

  • avatar

    “rather than just eliminating the flakiness and screwing the bracket right into the door”
    To me it seems their solution is the more elegant. Screwing directly into the door seems like it could inevitably cause panel warping at the most strenuous screw point, might require drilling out of rusted screws with a need to tap oversized holes for replacements. Using a backing plate would spread the load a bit and you’d never need to use power tools directly on the (presumably irreplaceable) body panels again.

    • 0 avatar

      Sheet metal screws screwed directly into the interior door metal will just strip out as the metal is too thin to withstand the repeated stress, unlike door panels that just sit there. Hence, the thick steel backing plate to spread the load as you said and to allow a stronger bond.

    • 0 avatar
      Educator(of teachers)Dan

      I suppose if you were a restorer and had the whole dang door apart and where replacing this latch a dab of J B Cold-weld on the backing plate would keep it in place permanently so you never had to worry about it falling down in the door again.

  • avatar

    My first thought is if the door was in one piece when the window was added, then wtf was holding the backing plate on?

  • avatar


    That one sound has driven me to tears many times in the past. One day I envision putting my car on a rotisserie and spinning it over, to have all the various screws, plates, hangers, brackets, etc. that I’ve lost over the past twenty plus years magically fall out on the ground.

  • avatar
    Cool Cadillac Cat

    Murilee…just wait until you need to find a ball-and-trunion joint. This is the U-joint-esque connector at the front of the driveshaft.

    Let me help…just have a new shaft built. I couldn’t find replacement parts 25 years ago, you ain’t gonna find ’em, now.

    What’s funny is, the window latches on my ’67 looked different than this. They had finger depressions in each side and were longer handles.

    Speaking of windows…dontcha love how the front windows roll down in like 2.5 turns? We need more of that, today. I want fast window movement, damnit!

    This almost makes me want to find one of these and start over with it.

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