"I'm Gonna Get You Sucka!" Product Review: Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus

Chuck Goolsbee
by Chuck Goolsbee
im gonna get you sucka product review mityvac 7201 fluid evacuator plus

I’m not a very good mechanic, but I enjoy working on my cars. Part of it is because I’m cheap and don’t like spending money on things I can do myself. Additionally, every time I have any interaction with any part of a car dealership I walk away feeling like a rape victim. Silkwood showers. Haunting regret. The works. Determined to rid myself of that feeling of being used, I made a commitment to gain mechanical skills and free myself from abuse.

I started long ago by doing oil changes. The procedure itself is so simple that it boggles my mind that anyone pays for the task. Yes, time is money, but a car is a huge portion of the cost of living, and its longevity is abetted by proper maintenance. Knowing that it is done properly adds peace of mind to that longevity . . . besides, have you seen the guys that work at the quick lube places? I keep my cars as long as possible and generally wear out their interiors before their drivetrains, and oil changes are the most basic, yet vital, maintenance to keep your car running a long time. Mechanically the process boils down to removing old oil and pouring in new. If you can cook yourself dinner you can change your own oil. The most difficult part of the operation is getting underneath the car to drain the old oil. Now, that is no longer an issue!

I first heard about removing the oil out of an engine via the dipstick hole from some Benz-owning friends. Mercedes-Benz only does through-the-dispstick-hole oil changes. I always thought it seemed silly, but now I’m a convert. I recently bought a Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus. The event that led up to my purchase was an accidental over-tightening of the drain bolt in my wife’s car. The last time I changed her oil I wasn’t paying attention and over-did it when putting the bolt back in. I didn’t strip it completely, but I felt that little “give” that told me I’d be doing a heli-coil job on her pan at some point in my future. (Remember I said at the beginning that I wasn’t a very good mechanic!) I did the bodger’s trick of sealing the bolt in silicone to hold it over until I can fix it properly. Meanwhile I’m still going to have to change the oil. Hence the The Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus.

The unit arrived with a damaged box, which is never a good start to a relationship. Thankfully no parts were missing and nothing was damaged. Included in the box was the unit itself, two different diameter extraction tubes, a main tube, and an instruction manual. I’m one of those guys who reads the manual of everything before I use it. In summary this is how to use the Fluid Extractor:

1. Warm up, then shut down your engine. Think Goldilocks: Warm is good, HOT not so much, Cold won’t do.


2. Remove your engine’s oil cap and dipstick.


3. Insert the main tube into the top of the Mityvac 7201 unit.


4. Select an extraction tube that is just slightly smaller than your dipstick hole, and attach that to the main tube.


5. Insert extraction tube into the dipstick hole until you hit the bottom of the oil pan. Your dipstick will serve as a guide as to how far to expect to slide it down.


6. Make sure the drain plug on the Mityvac 7201 unit is secured and select “Evacuate” from the “Evacuate/Discharge” button options.


7. Pump the handle about 10 times, as you would a bicycle pump.


8. Stand back and behold the wonder that is the Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus as it sucks the old oil out of your engine!

It takes just a few minutes to get all the oil out. When it hits bottom and all the oil is out you’ll hear it sucking air. Once finished you pull the extraction tube out and off, insert the main tube into into something handy to carry it in off to the recycling station, flip the switch to “Discharge”, and it’ll blow out the old oil. Fill your engine with the proper amount of new oil, replace your cap and dipstick, and you are done. You won’t even get your hands dirty! Much faster than draining too.

Unless you have to also change a filter you won’t have to get under the car at all. (In the case of my TDI, the filter is on top of the engine, so with that car the entire operation can be done from above.) No muss, no fuss. No ramps, no jacks. There are other units besides the Mityvac 7201, but I chose this one for its size and discharge capacity. Some of the cars I care for are vintage machines with 11+ quart oil capacities. (The discharge feature also makes it useful for brake bleeding but I haven’t tested that yet.) The Mityvac 7201 is expensive at around $75, but a budget-minded gearhead could find a usable substitute for as little as $45. If you want powered options (electrical or compressed air) plan on spending a few hundred bucks.

Once you’ve sucked, you’ll never drain again.

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  • Scott Scott on Sep 30, 2009
    @pgcooldad - Try as I might, I cannot reach either my drain plug or filter without crawling underneath my car. I cannot crawl underneath my car without raising it up a few inches on ramps. Which only adds about 1 min. to the 10 mins. you talked about. Not a big deal. I don't understand why anyone would pay someone to change their oil. It's easy, it's cheaper, and you have the satisfaction of properly maintaining a machine you probably enjoy every day. I've worked on just about every aspect of all the cars I've owned, and it's saved me untold money and hassle, and is quite therapeutic in its own way. That said, though I usually jump at products that make car maintenance easier, the Mityvac wouldn't really help me. Maybe when I get a car that doesn't have any drain plugs...

  • Pahaska Pahaska on Oct 06, 2009

    I ordered the extractor mentioned in this post, but what came via UPS was a different and more expensive model that hooks to an air compressor. No pumping, but the oil has to be poured out as there is no purge option. I have a 40 gallon bed tank in my truck that was filled with gasoline mixed with a little diesel (don't ask!) with no good way to drain or siphon. The extractor did a fine job of emptying the tank 2 gallons at a time. My mower and my wife's Mazda run just fine on the mixture. My Genesis has a cartridge filter on the bottom of the engine and a belly pan that has to be removed to access the filter. No way to do it easily without a lift. I figure I'll just take the Gennie to the dealer for each change.

  • Nrd515 I bought an '88 S10 Blazer with the 4.3. We had it 4 years and put just about 48K on it with a bunch of trips to Nebraska and S. Dakota to see relatives. It had a couple of minor issues when new, a piece of trim fell off the first day, and it had a seriously big oil leak soon after we got it. The amazinly tiny starter failed at about 40K, it was fixed under some sort of secret warranty and we got a new Silverado as a loaner. Other than that, and a couple of tires that blew when I ran over some junk on the road, it was a rock. I hated the dash instrumentation, and being built like a gorilla, it was about an inch and a half too narrow for my giant shoulders, but it drove fine, and was my second most trouble free vehicle ever, only beaten by my '82 K5 Blazer, which had zero issues for nearly 50K miles. We sold the S10 to a friend, who had it over 20 years and over 400,000 miles on the original short block! It had a couple of transmissions, a couple of valve jobs, a rear end rebuild at 300K, was stolen and vandalized twice, cut open like a tin can when a diabetic truck driver passed out(We were all impressed at the lack of rust inside the rear quarters at almost 10 years old, and it just went on and on. Ziebart did a good job on that Blazer. All three of his sons learned to drive in it, and it was only sent to the boneyard when the area above the windshield had rusted to the point it was like taking a shower when it rained. He now has a Jeep that he's put a ton of money into. He says he misses the S10's reliablity a lot these days, the Jeep is in the shop a lot.
  • Jeff S Most densely populated areas have emission testing and removing catalytic converters and altering pollution devices will cause your vehicle to fail emission testing which could effect renewing license plates. In less populated areas where emission testing is not done there would probably not be any legal consequences and the converter could either be removed or gutted both without having to buy specific parts for bypassing emissions. Tampering with emission systems would make it harder to resell a vehicle but if you plan on keeping the vehicle and literally running it till the wheels fall off there is not much that can be done if there is no emission testing. I did have a cat removed on a car long before mandatory emission testing and it did get better mpgs and it ran better. Also had a cat gutted on my S-10 which was close to 20 years old which increased performance and efficiency but that was in a state that did not require emission testing just that reformulated gas be sold during the Summer months. I would probably not do it again because after market converters are not that expensive on older S-10s compared to many of the newer vehicles. On newer vehicles it can effect other systems that are related to the operating and the running of the vehicle. A little harder to defeat pollution devices on newer vehicles with all the systems run by microprocessors but if someone wants to do it they can. This law could be addressing the modified diesels that are made into coal rollers just as much as the gasoline powered vehicles with cats. You probably will still be able to buy equipment that would modify the performance of a vehicles as long as the emission equipment is not altered.
  • ToolGuy I wonder if Vin Diesel requires DEF.(Does he have issues with Sulfur in concentrations above 15ppm?)
  • ToolGuy Presented for discussion: https://xroads.virginia.edu/~Hyper2/thoreau/civil.html
  • Kevin Ford can do what it's always done. Offer buyouts to retirement age employees, and transfers to operating facilities to those who aren't retirement age. Plus, the transition to electric isn't going to be a finger snap one time event. It's going to occur over a few model years. What's a more interesting question is: Where will today's youth find jobs in the auto industry given the lower employment levels?
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