Piston Slap: Spicy…or Spicier?

Sajeev Mehta
by Sajeev Mehta

John writes:

Wasup, Sajeev!

I have an 06 R/T Charger and I am contemplating getting a set of Eibach springs for it. What other costs might be associated aside from installation? What other products would I need to purchase, if any?

Thanks for any input,


John

Sajeev answers:

Well son, there was once a time when lowering springs ruined the suspension settings of a half-assed platform: hat tip to my dear Fox Body Ford. Hopefully your German-bred Chrysler product has none of those problems.

Eibach makes two kits for your car: spicy and spicier. That’s because the lower you go, the more heat you gotta handle.

Lowering (or lifting, for that matter) springs alter any vehicle’s suspension geometry. A wheel alignment is mandatory, and the LX forums seem to agree. Mild lowering kits (1.5″-ish max) are usually fine with stock dampers, even if a firmer shock compliments a lower and (usually) firmer spring. More aggressive setups usually need a matched set of dampers to go with, unless you care not about ride degradation.

Sometimes a full suspension kit includes an anti-roll bar upgrade too, which could help the feel and scrub understeer but the reduced left-to-right suspension flexibility isn’t necessarily that fantastic. More jolts don’t translate into faster lap times: do extensive research before you buy.

There’s also the matter of stock wheels: even the R/T might look a little silly with a lower body and boring-ass stock wheels. A bigger rim with a shorter sidewall is needed to “complete the look.” A different offset rim (see hyperlinked thread above) can also help with the inevitable: the meeting of expensive rubber with metal body parts. And brings me to the big problem with aftermarket lowering bits: driving style!

The more you have, the more likely you’ll avoid the punishment of potholes, pavement joints and puddles. If you live in a place with bad roads, or flooding, you might want to reconsider. Because nothing’s worse than a sore back, a tired ass and a hydro-locked motor if you treat a lowered car like a normal one.

Bonus! A Piston Slap Nugget of Wisdom:

See the slippery slope here? What exactly do you want? Looking lower requires more parts than just springs to complete the look. That’s the stance or hellaflush look, and it ain’t cheap. Going faster for the road and track? Going full aftermarket may be overkill: I’d try some factory funded engineering perfection via SRT-springs, famously high quality dampers (like Koni, Bilstein) and stickier tires on stock wheels. That won’t make you look any cooler, but you certainly will be.

[Image: Dodge/Fiat Chrysler Automobiles]

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry…but be realistic, and use your make/model specific forums instead of TTAC for more timely advice.

Sajeev Mehta
Sajeev Mehta

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  • Blue-S Blue-S on May 12, 2014

    The ST Suspensions Coilover kit might be a good option. ST is a subsidiary of KW, and their stuff is made in Germany. The ST kits do not have the stainless steel housings that the KW products use, though. It looks like the ST Coilover kit for the '06 Charger is about $900 from several online sellers, and there is apparently a $150 rebate available through June. You would be hard-pressed to get a set of Konis or Bilsteins and a set of reputable-brand sport springs for that kind of money. Just don't go nuts with the lowering. Just because you CAN lower the car several inches, that doesn't mean that you SHOULD...

  • Raph Raph on May 13, 2014

    I was checking out Koni's site today and hit the news & event link. They are offering dampers and matched H&R springs. Pretty cool as this takes the chance of mismatching the spring and damper out of the problem. For the average guy looking to lower a vehicle this isn't a bad way to go and by average I mean the person that isn't willing to invest time into going out and evaluating their performance with concrete numbers and testing methods.

  • Rover Sig 2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited, like my previous JGC's cheap to keep (essentially just oil, tires) until recent episode of clunking in front suspension at 50K miles led to $3000 of parts replaced over fives visits to two Jeep dealers which finally bought a quiet front end. Most expensive repair on any vehicle I've owned in the last 56 years.
  • Bob Hey Tassos, have you seen it with top down. It's a permanent roll bar so if it flips no problem. It's the only car with one permanently there. So shoots down your issue. I had a 1998 for 10 years it was perfect, but yes slow. Hardly ever see any of them anymore.
  • 3-On-The-Tree 2007 Toyota Sienna bedsides new plugs, flat tire on I-10 in van Horn Tx on the way to Fort Huachuca.2021 Tundra Crewmax no issues2021 Rav 4 no issues2010 Corolla I put in a alternator in Mar1985 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60 280,000mi I put in a new radiator back in 08 before I deployed, did a valve job, new fuel and oil pump. Leaky rear main seal, transmission, transfer case. Rebuild carb twice, had a recall on the gas tank surprisingly in 2010 at 25 years later.2014 Ford F159 Ecoboost 3.5L by 80,000mi went through both turbos, driver side leaking, passenger side completely replaced. Rear min seal leak once at 50,000 second at 80,000. And last was a timing chain cover leak.2009 C6 Corvette LS3 Base, I put in a new radiator in 2021.
  • ChristianWimmer 2018 Mercedes A250 AMG Line (W177) - no issues or unscheduled dealer visits. Regular maintenance at the dealer once a year costs between 400,- Euros (standard service) to 1200,- Euros (major service, new spark plugs, brake pads + TÜV). Had one recall where they had to fix an A/C hose which might become loose. Great car and fun to drive and very economical but also fast. Recently gave it an “Italian tune up” on the Autobahn.
  • Bd2 Lexus is just a higher trim package Toyota. ^^
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