Piston Slap: B-Bodies Shall Master the Road Once More!

Sajeev Mehta
by Sajeev Mehta
Timothy writes:I need help bringing my 1994 Buick Roadmaster out of the dark ages.This sedan was the last car my parents bought and I’ve had it for several years now (143,000 miles). I love the huge interior and I’ve always been a fan of Buicks for general motoring. (See what I did there?)Seriously, I like the car a lot, but it’s so … wallowy, if that’s a word, that I don’t drive it much. I’d love to have a more European tautness to the suspension and steering. The trouble is that I know nothing about cars. You guys talk about the W126 Mercedes and Fox body Fords and I get lost real quick. I’ve inherited a garage full of tools, and since I don’t use the car as everyday transport, I’d like to try and do a few things myself. Bigger things will be done by my trusted mechanic.And please, I’d rather not get as involved as your Valentino swap, which is awesome!How can I upgrade the suspension and steering, yet still keep that awesome Buickness?Once that’s straightened out, I’d like to know more about why the heater core needs to be “blown out” twice a year.Sajeev answers:Son, I like the cut of your jib. And everything I’ve resto-modded on my Valentino directly correlates to the B-Body underneath your LT-1 powered Roadmaster. You have the 9C1 (Cop car) Caprice and the Impala SS at your part-bin disposal to keep the classic American Sedan swagger while removing the slop of the last 23 years and 143,000 miles.You will keep that “awesome Buickness” because you won’t do stereotypical restomod:
With all due respect to The Smoking Tire, saying the “ride quality is really good, it rides just beautifully” on a vehicle with Delrin bushings ( suspension details here) is over the top … unless the roads reviewed come with the car! That’s not hate; just putting things in context.Speaking from experience with polyurethane-intensive Fox Body Griggs parts, muscle cars with a Mustang-II style front clips, and as someone who handled Delrin bushings during my Mark VIII’s headlight rejuvenation, non-bushy bushings stress out driver and passengers with mad NVH ignorance, thus ruining the American Car raison d’être.Why go down this tangent? Because this “restomod mistake” is readily available with aftermarket alternatives for the Impala SS. If you need NVH control on the streets, a factory suspension with big, juicy rubber bushings is ideal. So resto-mod like your boy Sanjeev.
  • New coil springs, but use factory ’94-96 Impala SS specifications for a lower stance and better roll control.
  • Koni or Bilstein shocks for the ’77-’96 General Motors B-Body.
  • Impala SS spec front and rear anti-roll bars.
  • Install the SS/9C1-spec steering box.
  • Replace any worn item seen while installing the above (that’s the resto part of a restomod).
  • Upgrade the brakes to 9C1/Impala spec, or consider this wicked upgrade.
  • Build a 2.25- or 2.5-inch exhaust with high-flow cats behind these headers and use take off mufflers from a late model, LS-powered GM product for stealth.
  • Delete the insane intake silencers, but do it on the cheap via capping off the stock elbow, drilling out the airbox at its leading edge, etc. No aftermarket Hot Air Induction systems, please!
  • Get someone to do a computer re-tune.
  • Consider a bespoke torque convertor with a slightly looser stall; so much fun to out-launch everything but Teslas!
  • Do the Z28 full gauge cluster swap. Oh, hell yes!
  • Don’t like that column shifter post Z28 gauge swap? Bravada the interior!
  • Install a Retrosound Newport head unit (or go custom 2-DIN stereo conversion so you can have Apple Carplay/Android Auto). Upgrade speakers/amp to your taste.
  • Install the slick Corvette LT-1 fuel rail and matching composite valve covers just to screw with people (says the guy with a GT-40 intake on his Valentino).
  • The GM 5 on 5 bolt pattern has some decent upgrades thanks to Chevy Trucks. Or maybe some stylish VIP chrome wheels or Swangas with adapters? Whatever you choose, stick with 17-inch wheels for ride/handling balance.
  • I assume your heater core’s issues stem from Dex-Cool contamination? Not the end of the world, but you might have a rather cruddy radiator, too. Check the forums and replace everything with 9C1 upgrades, if applicable.
Good luck with your project. I’d be jealous if it weren’t for my own project keeping me so busy.[Image: General Motors]Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry…but be realistic, and use your make/model specific forums instead of TTAC for more timely advice.
Sajeev Mehta
Sajeev Mehta

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  • Armadamaster Armadamaster on Mar 15, 2017

    Police package shocks always make mine handle like their on rails, I did have the RAS fail on my 91 caprice wagon so I replaced with Gabriel Load carriers on the rear of that one. If the rear springs are saggy, then I'd replace with SS or 9c1 grade ones, otherwise I'd leave alone. Also, the Roadmaster got an additional frame brace in the rear that essentially boxed in the frame that the Caprices did not get. And the 9C1 got additional frame bracing behind the front suspension that the civi cars didn't get. All easily interchangeable from a junkyard 9C1. But what do I know, I've only had a dozen of B-bodies over the years.

  • Timothy Jay Timothy Jay on Mar 16, 2017

    This additional frame bracing on a 9C1 just bolts on to the Roadmaster? Does it make the car more stable in high speed turns? (Slaloms!) Thanks for your input.

  • Arthur Dailey We have a lease coming due in October and no intention of buying the vehicle when the lease is up.Trying to decide on a replacement vehicle our preferences are the Maverick, Subaru Forester and Mazda CX-5 or CX-30.Unfortunately both the Maverick and Subaru are thin on the ground. Would prefer a Maverick with the hybrid, but the wife has 2 'must haves' those being heated seats and blind spot monitoring. That requires a factory order on the Maverick bringing Canadian price in the mid $40k range, and a delivery time of TBD. For the Subaru it looks like we would have to go up 2 trim levels to get those and that also puts it into the mid $40k range.Therefore are contemplating take another 2 or 3 year lease. Hoping that vehicle supply and prices stabilize and purchasing a hybrid or electric when that lease expires. By then we will both be retired, so that vehicle could be a 'forever car'. Any recommendations would be welcomed.
  • Eric Wait! They're moving? Mexico??!!
  • GrumpyOldMan All modern road vehicles have tachometers in RPM X 1000. I've often wondered if that is a nanny-state regulation to prevent drivers from confusing it with the speedometer. If so, the Ford retro gauges would appear to be illegal.
  • Theflyersfan Matthew...read my mind. Those old Probe digital gauges were the best 80s digital gauges out there! (Maybe the first C4 Corvettes would match it...and then the strange Subaru XT ones - OK, the 80s had some interesting digital clusters!) I understand the "why simulate real gauges instead of installing real ones?" argument and it makes sense. On the other hand, with the total onslaught of driver's aid and information now, these screens make sense as all of that info isn't crammed into a small digital cluster between the speedo and tach. If only automakers found a way to get over the fallen over Monolith stuck on the dash design motif. Ultra low effort there guys. And I would have loved to have seen a retro-Mustang, especially Fox body, have an engine that could rev out to 8,000 rpms! You'd likely be picking out metal fragments from pretty much everywhere all weekend long.
  • Analoggrotto What the hell kind of news is this?
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