Piston Slap: Why You So Stupid, Smart Junction Box?!

Sajeev Mehta
by Sajeev Mehta

TTAC commentator claytori writes:

Hello Sajeev,

This email is about my 80-year-old mother-in-law Shirley, who is a sweetie and thinks I can fix anything. I hit the MIL jackpot.

Shirley owns a 2010 Lincoln MKZ 3.5 V6 with about 35,000 miles on it. About a year ago, the battery died on the Lincoln. CAA replaced it with another battery with a 13-month replacement warranty, on which less than 1 week remains.

Two weeks ago, the car wouldn’t start again, so I boosted it from my Saab 9-3, which sits beside the Lincoln in a heated garage. It started right away. As she doesn’t drive it more than about 3 miles at a time, I drove the car for a day to charge up the battery.

The battery was great for two days — then dead again.

I drove the Lincoln to work after another boost and did some parasitic drain diagnosis. There’s a 2A drain from a 120A fuse on the battery post feeding a wire that goes to the “smart” fuse panel. That panel is thoroughly buried behind the instrument panel. I subscribed to Alldata for the electrical schematics and found out the panel has some microprocessor parts, MOSFETs, and other miscellaneous bits.

Since it must be divorced and married to the car’s computer network for proper replacement, I condemned the Lincoln to the dealer. The techs said they couldn’t find a problem, and called Shirley to pick up the car. When she went to start the car to head home from the dealer, the MKZ was dead. She’s understandably very upset.

The dealer wants to replace a perfectly good battery because the techs are too lazy or incompetent to do a proper investigation. The battery is as fine as you’d expect after being drawn down a few times. The alternator is also fine. I don’t know what to tell her after this.

I’d fix the issue myself, but one of the four cables connected to the panel won’t allow it to come down, as it’s held with a plastic clip. Do I just pull hard and break the clip? Do I tell her to leave the car at the dealer until the mechanics get tired of looking at it and actually fix it?

Shirley won’t take cabs as she thinks the drivers are all robbers, rapists, terrorists, or a combination of all three, nor will she drive our spare car.

Sajeev answers:

Your mother-in-law is right about you: I admire your masterful diagnostic work.

From what I see on the Ford Fusion forums, either break the clip or remove the driver’s seat (mind the airbag!) for access without turning your back into a pretzel. I’d break the clip and be done with it, but that’s your call.

After you complete the diagnosis, let’s hope you don’t have to replace the smart junction box. I reckon you’re pulling out the driver’s seat for better access on that job.

[Image: Lincoln]

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry…but be realistic, and use your make/model specific forums instead of TTAC for more timely advice.

Sajeev Mehta
Sajeev Mehta

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  • DC Bruce DC Bruce on May 19, 2016

    Lead/acid batteries self discharge, so if you put one on the shelf, it will eventually die even if nothing is connected to it. Every car today uses some battery juice when the car is parked--even for something as mundane as the alarm system. It may be that the OP's measured 2 amp draw is normal. A 30-minute drive will not fully charge a discharged battery, because as the battery voltage rises back to normal, the amount of current delivered to the battery falls off. Cycling the battery between fully discharged and partially charged is a great way to kill it. So before ripping out black boxes and so on, the OP's M-I-L may have to change her driving habits or invest in a low-amp charger and be willing to connect/disconnect it when using the vehicle. Perhaps her clever son in law can figure out a simple plug/unplug way to do it, like the engine block heater pigtail lurking behind the grill of many frozen north vehicles. As an aside, this usage profile would be ideal for an EV.

    • See 2 previous
    • NeilM NeilM on May 20, 2016

      There's no way that a constant 2A drain is normal. Period.

  • Olddavid Olddavid on May 19, 2016

    My 450SL has the same problem. I have gone through every damn possible drain scenario to no avail. We only drive it about 2000 miles per year. But , after yet another dead battery, trust my dear wife to sum it up succinctly. "What does a battery cost-$100? $100 divided by 18 months equals $6 per month - what are you complaining about"? I shut up.

  • 3-On-The-Tree 2014 Ford F150 Ecoboost 3.5L. By 80,000mi I had to have the rear main oil seal replaced twice. Driver side turbo leaking had to have all hoses replaced. Passenger side turbo had to be completely replaced. Engine timing chain front cover leak had to be replaced. Transmission front pump leak had to be removed and replaced. Ford renewed my faith in Extended warranty’s because luckily I had one and used it to the fullest. Sold that truck on caravan and got me a 2021 Tundra Crewmax 4x4. Not a fan of turbos and I will never own a Ford again much less cars with turbos to include newer Toyotas. And I’m a Toyota guy.
  • Duke Woolworth Weight 4800# as I recall.
  • Kwik_Shift_Pro4X '19 Nissan Frontier @78000 miles has been oil changes ( eng/ diffs/ tranny/ transfer). Still on original brakes and second set of tires.
  • ChristianWimmer I have a 2018 Mercedes A250 with almost 80,000 km on the clock and a vintage ‘89 Mercedes 500SL R129 with almost 300,000 km.The A250 has had zero issues but the yearly servicing costs are typically expensive from this brand - as expected. Basic yearly service costs around 400 Euros whereas a more comprehensive servicing with new brake pads, spark plugs plus TÜV etc. is in the 1000+ Euro region.The 500SL servicing costs were expensive when it was serviced at a Benz dealer, but they won’t touch this classic anymore. I have it serviced by a mechanic from another Benz dealership who also owns an R129 300SL-24 and he’ll do basic maintenance on it for a mere 150 Euros. I only drive the 500SL about 2000 km a year so running costs are low although the fuel costs are insane here. The 500SL has had two previous owners with full service history. It’s been a reliable car according to the records. The roof folding mechanism needs so adjusting and oiling from time to time but that’s normal.
  • Theflyersfan I wonder how many people recalled these after watching EuroCrash. There's someone one street over that has a similar yellow one of these, and you can tell he loves that car. It was just a tough sell - too expensive, way too heavy, zero passenger space, limited cargo bed, but for a chunk of the population, looked awesome. This was always meant to be a one and done car. Hopefully some are still running 20 years from now so we have a "remember when?" moment with them.
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