By on April 19, 2016

2000 Subaru Impreza RS

Jerrid writes:

I’m getting ready to move to the Kansas City to attend a professional school for a year.  I’ve currently divested myself of all cars with the exception of my now daily driven toy which is a modified C6 Z06.  This will be fine until about, oh say, November or December when the snow starts coming down and the roads get salted.  So I’ve devised two potential schemes to address this.

First option: I find a reasonably fun winter car less than 15 years old for under $6,000 that can navigate snow and has some potential to moonlight as a respectable AutoX car (my C6Z06 would do track events/HPDEs).  So far I’ve only really found a few Pontiac G5 GTs and non-SC Cobalt SS models that fit this description; basically, GM Delta platform stuff.  I know there has to be other reliable FWD compacts out there that would fit my scheme.  I also know you’ve done a lot of AutoX time in your day, so I was hoping you had some additional insight on some winter warrior/parking lot marauder cars I might also consider.  After I finish up my school program, I’d sell the car to recoup as much of my investment as possible, and move on to my next destination.

Second Option:  I could just rent an economy car for about three months or so during the winter.  A quick estimate from Enterprise puts me in for about $3,000 if I rent an economy car for the winter.  I probably wouldn’t get anything worth taking to an AutoX event, but I wouldn’t have to worry about maintenance, insurance, or resale either.

What says you, Mr. Maruth?

What says me? Other than “Eat your spinach?

First thing I’ll say — idea number two is wretched, for many, many reasons. You don’t have to worry about resale on a car that costs less than $6,000. If you buy a $6k car, chances are that car won’t be worth a whole lot less than $6k if you wanted to sell it at the end of the winter, and cars that are $6k or less typically don’t last long on classified sites. You’ll be able to sell whatever you get for right around what you paid for it, and it won’t take long at all.

Liability-only insurance on a $6k car won’t cost you very much — probably $40-50 a month or less, depending on your age and driving record. So, don’t let something like that concern you, either.

Renting a car from an Enterprise would literally be throwing your money down a deep well. If you want to waste $3k, I can think of many more fun ways to do it — I’m thinking Vegas.

So, now that we’ve dispatched that silly idea, let’s look at your first idea. It’s a good one, all things considered. However, the first thing I’d recommend is forgetting about autocrossing your $6k car and buying a set of Hoosiers for your Z06. You’ll be so much happier in the long run. Autocrossing a slowish car can be an exercise in patience, and with the new tire rules in Street classes, they’re even slower than they used to be. After some HPDE time in your Zed, you’ll probably find autocrossing an FWD econobox downright sleepy.

But, let’s say you ignore that advice. What could you buy for $6k or less that would make a good winter ride as well as a sporty summer AXer? I have some thoughts (and you can go here for my thoughts on autocrossing, in general).

You mentioned the Cobalt SS, and that’s a good choice — for the autocrossing part. However, I’m not sold on the build quality of those vehicles. I think you’d find yourself dreading driving it in the wintertime. While it’s as fast as most E46 Bimmers on the AX circuits, it certainly doesn’t resemble one when it comes to everyday driving. The interior sucks harder than you can possibly imagine. You could also investigate a Saturn Ion Redline, too — they might be harder to find, but they could also be cheaper due to the orphan brand.

Of course, the Scion tC is always an option here, as well. It’s going to be underpowered in comparison to the Cobalt, but you’d like driving it everyday a lot better. The OEM tires on the tC are straight up awful in the snow (ask me how I know) but there are plenty of all-season tires that are an option for you in that size. I have autocrossed a tC a couple of times — not the most enjoyable experience. They’re prone to understeer (I used the e-brake to rotate most of the time) and they chew up tires. So, maybe not.

If you’re lucky, you might be able to find a nice fifth-generation Prelude. These things have held their value extremely well, and they’re right at the edge of your fifteen year window, so you might not be entirely comfortable spending your $6k on a car that old. The example in that link looks great, though. Man. I kinda wanna go buy it myself.

However, I think my ultimate recommendation is going to be a Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS. Of all the cars we’ve mentioned, it’s going to be the best in the snow, thanks to the standard Subie all-wheel drive. It can also be a surprisingly competitive autocross car, largely due to that same AWD system. I’ve seen talented drivers win regional class championships in them, and even be competitive at national tours and pro solos. Of course, you’ll want to make sure that you’ve got the entire service history on any example that you look at, and the head gasket issue is a real thing.

Nicer examples will be every bit of that $6k budget — beware the $3-4k options on the market, as they’ve likely been ragged out. But if you want to get a car that you’ll enjoy driving every day, that you’ll have a blast chasing cones with, and that will recoup nearly every dollar you spend when you go to sell, the 2.5 RS is your best bet.

However, don’t forget that in autocrossing, especially at the regional level, driver talent is much more important than car selection. Don’t believe me? How about the fact that Scott McHugh just won H Street at the El Toro Pro Solo in a 2013 Honda Accord? Or that he finished third in the freaking Super Challenge? Granted, Scott owns a couple of national championships in his C4 Corvette, but it just goes to show you that nearly any car can be quick in the hands of the right person.

And, as a gesture for writing such a nice letter to us here at Ask Bark, if you do the sensible thing and get yourself a winter car, I’d be more than happy to garage the Vette for you in the snowy months. Just because I’m nice. Also, because I’d drive it to Mexico and never come back.

Got a question for the Barkster? You know what to do. Email him at [email protected] or find him on Twitter at @barkm302.

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55 Comments on “Ask Bark: What Should I Drive While My Vette Gently Sleeps?...”

  • avatar

    The problem is finding something in that price range that will reliably last you an entire year with no break downs. What if you were down a few days, would you have a back up plan or someone you can hitch a ride with?

    I can see easily spending $1k on a car of that price range in a year’s time on basic maintenance/upkeep costs, more so if you experience a failure. I generally hate leases but maybe it could suit your needs and you could save some wear and tear on your vette for a couple of years.

    • 0 avatar

      Your “winter driver” is easy: spare rims with four real winter tires. You will have a lot of money left for a floor jack, jack stands, electric impact and torque wrenches.

      Rust will not be a problem if you wash and take care of it. Ask Irv Gordon with 3M miles on his Volvo which spent most of its time in NY state and is rust free.


  • avatar

    If you live in an area that gets icy, or snowy, always supplement your RWD Sports car/ supercar with an AWD crossover or SUV.

    Thank God for Subaru.

    And Chrysler. The Jeep series is going to be sought after for a long time when used AWD cars are necessary.

    • 0 avatar

      My Prius did well in the snow, just so long as it wasn’t deeper than the front air dam.

      But why? The reason is that, due to the torque of the electric motor, the Prius has to have fantastic traction control in order to work at all. TCS and ABS are far more important than AWD when a unskilled driver encounters slippery conditions. And it’s also less work for a skilled driver.

      With AWD, it’s easier to get in over your head, because the car accelerates faster. But acceleration is never the problem in the winter – the problem is control and deceleration. Which is what TCS and ABS are for.

      AWD is overrated, especially by people who say you should “always” have it. My FWD vehicles are at least 90% as good as the AWD vehicle I owned in the snow. RWD vehicles are inherently and deeply inferior in the snow, and they were a handful in the snow (their disadvantages can be mitigated somewhat by a 50/50 weight distribution and a good TCS).

      If you only drive RWD in the summer and AWD vehicles in the winter, you’re just not seeing the whole picture — there’s a reason most cars are FWD, and that reason is traction and oversteer motivation in slippery conditions. Yeah, FWD its bland – but its also simpler than AWD, more cost effective than AWD, much safer than RWD, and works just as well in most cases.

  • avatar

    As a current Kansas Citian with a penchant for RWD Chevy’s, I’d suggest another option. Our winters aren’t nearly as harsh as many believe. Snow doesn’t tend to be much of an issue. My Camaro saw winter DD duty many years before deciding I also needed another vehicle. I’ve been under it a few times for different exhaust and suspension work, it’s no worse for the wear. Proper maintenance is key. When salt gets put down, ensure you’re cleaning it off regularly with a good undercarriage wash.

    If it’s only a few months you’re worried about, move on up and bring a few extra car wash tokens.

  • avatar

    The trouble with a 15 year old Subaru is repairs and RUST. Here in NYC a 15 year old Subaru will be showing a lot of rust that could effect the handling of the car. And then it is always oil leaks, drive shafts & the old bugaboo head gaskets. How do i know been their and back. Never again. learned my lesson whel.

  • avatar

    1. Saturn Astra
    2. Suzuki SX4
    3. Lancer GTS
    4. VW MKV Jetta or Rabbit

    Personally, I would just purchase a slightly bombed-out but mostly functioning B-body or P71.

  • avatar

    I don’t understand the desire to race your beater. Seems like a way to drive the cost of said beater up (tires, brakes, breaking things) which is the opposite reason of a winter beater. Your C6 is already modded. Are you really going to impact the value by driving it a few winter days a year? One season of winter driving won’t kill it. Buy some all seasons on some unloved stock wheels.

    • 0 avatar

      I don’t understand it either. A $5000 Corolla and a set of good tires, preferably winter tires would be a good choice.

      Alternately a retired P71, some winter tires and a couple of concrete blocks for the trunk would also get him through the winter with ease with a lower cost.

  • avatar
    Kyree S. Williams

    I’m so glad I live in a region where we don’t have to put our nice cars away during the winter.

    GM Delta cars are not reliable or well-built; kiss it off. But I do like the Impreza suggestion.

    • 0 avatar

      I can go years without seeing snow where I live… but the heat in the summer and the mosquitos are hell. Active cooling wear and Thermacell refills are still cheaper than a winter beater :)

      • 0 avatar
        Kyree S. Williams

        We get snow and ice here in Oklahoma, but not very often. Road salt is scarcely used. And we actually had a mild winter this last time. As I recall, there was some snow and ice in November around Thanksgiving, and then we were good.

        • 0 avatar

          I want to say a few years ago we had a little ice one Monday in the southern half of the state (Mississippi) and ran through almost 80% of our salt that had been purchased by MDOT to last the entire winter. I don’t think we even had a good frost this year. I’d have figured you’d see a little more of it there (though still not enough to warrant a beater).

  • avatar

    I won’t, but I’m surprised The Bark didn’t throw a Ford Focus out there.

    “After I finish up my school program, I’d sell the car to recoup as much of my investment as possible”

    “I find a reasonably fun winter car less than 15 years old for under $6,000 that can navigate snow and has some potential to moonlight as a respectable AutoX car (my C6Z06 would do track events/HPDEs)”

    I think the concept of “winter beater” and “respectable AutoX car” are mutually exclusive, especially when the budget is $6,000 2016 USD. So when we think good winter beater and good autocross vehicle, Subaru comes to mind. So whats an MY07 Subaru?

    MY07 Subaru Impreza 2.5i

    04/13/16 NJ Regular $5,200 79,245 Avg BLUE 4G A Yes
    03/24/16 SO CAL Regular $5,900 79,535 Avg BLACK 4G A Yes
    04/15/16 PA Regular $4,700 89,003 Avg GREY 4G A Yes
    04/08/16 PA Regular $6,100 95,200 Above BLUE 4G A Yes
    04/07/16 NEWENGLD Regular $2,100 105,665 Below BLACK 4G A No
    03/24/16 PHOENIX Regular $5,000 106,298 Avg BLUE 4G Yes
    03/23/16 NJ Regular $2,700 114,759 Below GRAY 4G A Yes
    03/23/16 SEATTLE Regular $5,500 126,627 Avg BLACK 4G No
    03/22/16 NYMETSKY Regular $3,000 159,008 Below BLUE 4G A Yes

    Yup, and this is wholesale which you won’t get, plus fee, plus pack, and plus any applicable taxes. Let’s not forget MY07 is CY2006 for the most part, so its old on top of everything. Ten years is a long time, every one of those cars is going to have reconditioning costs. Sure you could spend all this money, enjoy it, and more importantly *get the money back* when you go to sell but you’re gonna have to up the budget (no, we are not going to look at MY01s, that’s just asking for trouble).

    So GM Delta I was suggested, my rule of thumb in general is f*** GM Delta I and especially if you expect to get money back. But let’s go to the tape:

    MY07 Chevrolet Cobalt SS Coupe

    03/30/16 NJ Regular $5,600 61,975 Above RED 4G 5 Yes
    03/23/16 LAKELAND Regular $5,200 79,297 Above RED 4G A Yes
    03/10/16 CHICAGO Regular $3,050 103,977 Avg RED 4G Yes
    04/13/16 KC Lease $3,100 116,458 Avg SILVER 4G A Yes
    02/23/16 NASHVILL Lease $3,500 120,413 Avg BLACK 4G A Yes
    03/30/16 PITTSBGH Lease $1,600 131,442 Below BLUE 4G 5 Yes

    MY07 Chevrolet Cobalt SS S/C Coupe

    03/23/16 NJ Regular $6,600 95,124 Above YELLOW 4GT 5 Yes
    04/18/16 NC Regular $5,600 103,591 Avg RED 4G 5 Yes
    03/29/16 ST LOUIS Regular $4,000 108,116 Avg RED 4GT 5 Yes
    03/29/16 GEORGIA Lease $3,000 115,161 Avg BLACK 4G 5 Yes
    03/10/16 ALBANY Regular $4,100 138,513 Avg Orange 4CY M Yes
    03/23/16 CALIFORN Regular $2,700 177,321 Below BLACK 4G 5 Yes

    MY07 Pontiac G5 GT Coupe

    04/07/16 OMAHA Regular $5,500 42,679 Above RED 4G A Yes
    03/30/16 LAKELAND Regular $5,700 66,419 Above ORANGE 4G A Yes
    03/23/16 MILWAUKE Regular $4,700 74,526 Avg BLACK 4G A Yes
    03/23/16 PITTSBGH Lease $4,200 88,133 Avg WHITE 4G A Yes
    04/14/16 DFW Lease $3,500 103,982 Avg SILVER 4G A Yes
    03/23/16 MILWAUKE Regular $3,100 130,886 Avg BLACK 4G A Yes
    03/31/16 NORTHSTR Regular $2,700 139,768 Avg SILV 4G A Yes
    03/29/16 PHILLY Regular $2,000 141,035 Below SILVER 4G A Yes

    The half decent ones are still kinda pricey, although there were some in the 120 miles range which might be doable at say 4 all in. So you pick it up, do all of the reconditioning inc tires and any mods for autocross. Now you go to sell it, who is buying this? I can sell a Subaru to a grandma in this snow belt, who is going to want a very discontinued model, possibly of a discontinued brand, which was the subject of a much publicized recall? Fellow autocrosser? Car guy? GM Delta I fan? Maybe. If you had a lot and access to a credit machine like Santander, then you could bury some single mother with three baby daddies in it. But you don’t, so let’s bear in mind the pool of interested buyers is shallow at best when you’re going to be asking 5-6K for it, and this assumes the car doesn’t blow up in some expensive way between now and then.

    So here is my argument, you have an awesome ride for racing and you certainly don’t need similar performance out of a beater. If you decide you want this, my suggestion is to lease something which gives it to you for the 6K. Realistically though I would drop the requirement and just get a regular winter beater like the rest of us proles. I see a high miles Toyonda in your future (inc Scion) unless you find a decent 4wd truck for that money. Something easy to sell with as low as reconditioning costs as you can find. Good luck even finding a Prelude and then dealing with n’ear do wells when you try to sell it. Granted you’ll deal with those on any Toyonda but someone always seems to come up with money for a Civic or Corolla. This is key. Tire kickers lust after that Prelude that got away or that cherry E46 but they can’t ever seem to come up with the cash. Julio or Samana will show up and actually buy that 05 Civic.

    • 0 avatar
      Kyree S. Williams

      Hilarious commentary, backed up with the usual auction evidence. Thanks!

      • 0 avatar

        Thank you, sir.

        • 0 avatar

          28: 3800 S/C swap waiting to happen? Interested?

          • 0 avatar

            If I had a swap done, it would be into a Cadillac most likely, and the odds of that are pretty high. That 6000 is all used up, IMO. Unless someone had a free motor/tranaxle and had the time/inclination, doesn’t seem worth doing. I also think on that one the Series II won’t fit the bellhousing of the I think 3spd on the A-body, so If I am right you will be swapping out the trans as well.


          • 0 avatar

            Yeah, but I have a Pontiac 6000 fetish. Not its Buick, Chevy or Olds twins. And yeah, might as well upgrade from the old 3 speed. I figured on finding a 3800 S/C GM car (wrecked or rusty with solid running gear) and swapping it all over, to make a sleeper of sorts. Or, my version of the ultimate Pontiac 6000. :-)

            I found that particular 6000 interesting because a) its super cheap, and b) its the only 6000 Ive come across thus far with a floor shift and tachometer, although Im sure there are more out there. The body/interior doesnt look too bad, and some newer (non-tri-bar) Pontiac alloys to throw on it would be on the list.

            A 3800 S/C Eldo does sound interesting.

    • 0 avatar

      I too dont know why the Focus was not mentioned. An SVT Focus seems a natural choice. A set of winter wheels/tires for D/D duty, some performance rubber on the stock wheels for race duty. Perhaps the OP has a bias against Blue Ovals, but if not, it should be on the list.

      I cant figure how someone would consider the awful GM Delta but not a Focus, unless again, there is bias at play. Everything about the Focus is far and above the Delta. The way it drives, the interior packaging/quality, and the reliability are all strong marks in the Focus’ favor, as well as it lacking the tendancy to kill you due to its ignition switch. The only Delta-based vehicle Im okay with would be the HHR, but it doesnt apply here.

      A V-Spec Sentra, Neon R/T and Civic Si could also be decent choices, Id personally go with the Honda out of those three. It may not be the quickest, but its a better overall car. A Mazda Protege` 5 would make for a decent option as well, not sure what years the MazdaSpeed versions of Protege’ were offered, or how hard itd be to find one, or what they cost.

      If you do consider a 5th gen Prelude, avoid the slush box at all costs. I see them all the time going for cheap with trans issues, they had a very high failure rate.

  • avatar

    I’ve lived in Kansas City most of my life. The winters are getting milder and milder every year. You might get 3-5 days with snow on the roads. On those rare occasions, you can telecommute. While Denver and Chicago and Texas can get absolutely hammered with foul weather, KC is generally exempt from it. Very strange phenomenon, but true.

    Oh, and regarding rental cars: the local Budget has a freakin Focus ST. You heard that right. And a Mustang GT. I drove by Enterprise the other day and they had several Challengers on the lot.

    • 0 avatar

      “… and regarding rental cars: the local Budget has a freakin Focus ST.”

      A nonspecialty rental company in the US is renting manual-transmission cars?

    • 0 avatar

      They rent out performance cars with manuals?

      Stupid, but ballsy.

      • 0 avatar

        I couldn’t believe it, either. An out-of-town coworker got a Focus ST from the airport Budget when he flew in for a few days. It was yellow, Recaros, the whole thing. Another guy got a Renegade Trailhawk. It’s like the world is turning on its axis or something.

        • 0 avatar

          Back in the day, my dad said he and a fellow Air Force buddy rented an AMC AMX upon returning from Vietnam to get them home from the airport. He said it was a blast, and a great “welcome home to America” (as opposed to being spat on by the pch101’s of the day).

          • 0 avatar

            Rental companies routinely rented performance cars out back then, like the Shelby GT350H (H for Hertz).

            Different time, for sure.

            And I think you need to drop your anti-PCH jihad, personally.

  • avatar

    First, I’ll concur with the poster above – I grew up in St. Louis, so I can tell you winters in K.C. are not that bad. Anything with FWD will be perfectly sufficient to get around even if it snows – I live in Denver and unless you’re talking a foot or more of snow, you’ll still be able to get around pretty easily. You’ll find the worst storms involve ice, not snow, and if that happens, no one’s going anywhere, no matter what they drive.

    Pick up a good used Civic or Corolla, make sure it has good tires, and drive it for a few months and sell it. Not sure why you’d have to have a sport compact car for the times the Z06 is sidelined – winters are mild enough in K.C. that you’ll still be able to break out the ‘Vette plenty of times when you need a fast-driving fix. Besides, even with FWD, the performance tires on any sport compact will make it only marginally more useful than the ‘Vette, and any $6,000 used sport compact will be well and truly used by at least one previous owner, so God only knows what’s wrong with it. You’ll have to buy winter tires and live with the previous owner (or, more likely, owners’) bad behavior.

    F**k that noise – find yourself a decent used compact for a few months. Go with a Civic or Corolla, or if you have to have AWD, an old Subaru would be good as long as you’re prepared to pay more for it (personally, I don’t think you need it where you are moving to, but it’s your bucks).

    A Z06 ‘Vette should be all the performance you ever could need and you’ll find you can use it pretty frequently in K.C.

    (And don’t skip Arthur Bryant’s…MMMM, MMMMMM….Good.)

  • avatar

    Just wash the damn Vette, one year of road salt is nothing to worry about. Take an Uber to and from if you must.

    This sounds like a car guy looking for an excuse to buy a beater to hoon around in. If that’s the case then so be it, but the whole ‘winter conditions in K.C.” thing is flimsy.

    • 0 avatar

      I would never drive a z06 in the winter, even with the most expensive winter tires. Corvettes aren’t made for winter, and winter use will devalue the car significantly. I think Car and Driver tried to go through a winter in a new Vette, the article is well worth a read…

  • avatar

    Call your insurance person first, the cars you’re talking about are very tough to insure.

  • avatar

    Assuming used Japanese cars are absurdly overpriced in many markets, and in the vein of the GM Deltas, would looking at a used Ford Focus be a good idea? The 3 and 5-door hatchback models weren’t bad looking and they could be made to handle pretty well (anyone remember the SVT Focus)? Even better, find a manual transmission Focus Wagon and earn the respect and laughter of your autocrossing friends. How about this example?

    Or an SVT Focus – a new hood couldn’t cost much, right?

    I live in Northern Michigan where we have a lot colder and wetter winters than KC and a FWD car with real winter tires has done great for me.

  • avatar

    Go buy a late 1970s ‘Vette cheap and slap snow tires on it. Nobody is going to cry about devaluing a smog motored low powered disco ‘Vette.

  • avatar
    Big Wheel

    Just drive the Vette. Sounds like the winters aren’t that bad there. Maybe get a set of winter tires for it if you are really worried. Much cheaper than buying another car.

    If you get dumped on with 12″ of snow, stay home. Your school will be cancelled anyway. Nobody needs to be out in a bad storm except for emergencies or police/fire, etc.

  • avatar

    “This will be fine until about, oh say, November or December when the snow starts coming down and the roads get salted. ”

    He ain’t worried about snow handling, Bark – so “get snow tires” is not the answer.

    He’s worried about rust.

    The answer to that is, indeed, “get a winter beater”.

  • avatar

    Step 1:
    Buy an Acura RSX Type S or Honda Civic SI

    Step 2:
    Find some cheap steelies and a nice set of winter tires

    Step 3:
    Open up that K20 head and let it breath

    Step 4:
    Drive the f*&# out of it all winter all the while giggling like a little school girl at the incredible 8,00rpm wail of that K20

    Step 5:
    Start to question if you prefer Chevrolet SBC or rev happy Honda 4’s…. yet will have both

  • avatar
    George B

    I lived in Kansas City for a year and in nearby Lawrence, KS for 5 years. Drove a RWD car the entire time. The winters aren’t bad enough to justify having a winter car unless you want an extra car. In addition, I don’t remember that area using large quantities of sodium chloride on the roads. I’d buy tires that keep their grip at cold temperatures and wash the car more frequently.

  • avatar

    I seriously don’t get the Scion tC boner that has been popping up on TTAC lately.

  • avatar

    I hate to be cliche, but why not an NA or NB Miata? It seems like the obvious choice: cheap, auto-crossable, fine in the winter with decent rubber, and you can ALWAYS find a buyer willing to take it off your hands for about what you paid for it.

  • avatar
    87 Morgan

    I don’t get the ‘I want to race it’ part of the equation. You have one race car, typically most people find one to be enough of an expense.

    If you can set that aside.

    Ford Ranger. 2×4. Ran autotrader for 6k or less, found 104 within 500 miles of Denver. Found a nice 97 super cab with topper for $5988 and 76k miles. Perfect winter car, put some sand bags or cheap concrete bags in the back for some weight or even some snow tires if you are feeling frisky. A well cared for small truck always brings the money back.

    • 0 avatar

      That’s what I don’t get. So I have a modified Corvette and I’m looking to get an economy car to race. That would be like me stating that I have a Jeep but I’m looking for a car to drive in the snow and dirt. Is the Corvette too fast for autocross? Am I missing something.

      • 0 avatar

        “That would be like me stating that I have a Jeep but I’m looking for a car to drive in the snow and dirt.”

        Well you know if it was one of them there 75th Anniversary Compass or Patriot you wouldn’t want to take that off road a decrease its collector value…

        • 0 avatar
          87 Morgan

          Well Duh…no one is that much of animal that they would take their collector edition patriot off-roading and risk a scratch. I think CGJeep was referring to a Wrangler, non collector edition of course…

  • avatar

    Drive the Vette. When the forecast is for snow, have Enterprise bring you whatever they have cheapest. Before she had her own car my roommate used to rent crap from them for <$20/day. Heck, I rented an Elantra for $9/day back in December from Reagan Airport in DC.

    Buddy of mine has been known to rent Camaros to autocross…

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