By on January 15, 2015

Neil_Young_Rust_Never_Sleeps

Everything you wanted to know about rust proofing, the economics of diesel pricing and more.

 

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26 Comments on “While You Were Sleeping: January 15, 2015...”


  • avatar
    PrincipalDan

    The only thing I know about rust proofing is that Ziebart and Rusty Jones didn’t work worth a darn.

    • 0 avatar
      28-Cars-Later

      I tried Krown on two of mine this fall, we’ll see.

    • 0 avatar
      gtemnykh

      My 1996 4Runner was Ziebart treated when new, and driven regularly until 2002 when it was parked in a garage. Looking ins1de fender wells (past the liners) and at the frame, the coating lasted. It came off on the rear differential but that isn’t unexpected. I have the little rubber plugs where they drilled into the rocker panels to spray ins1de. No rust forming around those holes thankfully, and the rockers are fine. Not sure if it was resprayed annually in that stretch of 96-02. I have since supplemented with a fresh coat of Fluid Film (jeez I must sound like a salesman for the stuff by now), and reapply annually on those parts of the frame and axle that see the most spray/gravel that wear the undercoating off. I also keep the truck out of the garage if it has salt/snow on it to prevent catalyzing that oxidization. The goal is to have it last for 15+ more years as my general purpose utility/camping vehicle.

  • avatar

    Irv Gordon’s 1966 Volvo P1800 is still rust-free. Here’s how he does it:

    https://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2014/02/the-man-for-whom-they-made-the-three-million-mile-badge/

  • avatar
    GS 455

    Despite corrosion being a major problem almost no one in Manitoba rust proofs their cars. You almost never see it mentioned in a used car ad. People here are too cheap and I think they’re just resigned to their car getting rusted. I’ve considered it but I just can’t get past the idea of them drilling holes in my car’s body.

  • avatar
    jrmason

    KROWN indeed does work, provided you have an installer who cares about his work.
    The KROWN license is expensive to maintain, not only do the shop owners have to attend yearly classes but so does each employee. The place I have mine done is also a lisensed Line-X dealer. They have a waiting room and the walls are plastered with vehicles that have had different things done with the Line-X. These guys are all very good at what they do.

    • 0 avatar
      gtemnykh

      “provided you have an installer who cares about his work”

      This right here is the key folks. No matter how good the rust inhibition properties of those proprietary sprays is, if the technician half-asses it it’s all in vain.

      I do my undercoating myself, it’s nasty messy work but in the end as I’m washing the stuff out of my hair, I know it was done right.

      • 0 avatar
        wmba

        Well, Krown at least paid up without much prodding to repaint my Impreza after every hole they drilled started to rust. Red rust on a silver car was somewhat obvious, even to the dimbulbs running the place.

        They go on a yearly course according to the previous commenter. Where they all play golf and drink, says me. The drills they used on my car needed to have been sharpened the year before, and the plugs would not stay flush in the holes. Krown quality – non-existent.

        • 0 avatar
          jrmason

          Yes they do attend annual classes. You obviously found a shoddy shop owner. There are good and bad people in every trade and KROWN isn’t excluded. The company has a good product and they backed it up with a warranty when the shop botched the install on your vehicle. Find another place that applies it and ask them if you can watch while they work on your vehicle. They should be very transparent as long as they are honest.

    • 0 avatar
      Lurker_n

      Interesting read about rust proofing “Corrosion Control” from the Canadian Defence R&D:

      http://cradpdf.drdc-rddc.gc.ca/PDFS/unc53/p526285.pdf

      I went with Krown after reading this.

      Also, I find this very interesting:
      “An exception to the above approach for army vehicles was in the original design of the High-Mobility Multipurpose Wheeled Vehicle (HMMWV). The frame rails were made of 1010 carbon steel with no galvanizing protection and no provisions for draining water out of the interior cavities in the rails. “

  • avatar
    jfbramfeld

    Is it my imagination, or was that article on rust prevention actually an ad. I have nothing against ads, but I don’t like them masquerading as journalism.

  • avatar
    bullnuke

    Gee…the days of my youth, when gas was $.30 a gallon and diesel was $.15 or $.18 a gallon. I even purchased diesel for less than gas here in Ohio when I first bought my F350 in ’99.

  • avatar
    don1967

    Pretty much any oily product thoroughly applied every year or two will make a huge difference after 10 years up here in the salt belt. But as the author says, they are incredibly messy and can damage rubber seals.

    People who claim that modern cars don’t rust either don’t drive in road salt, or they’ve never crawled underneath to see the horrors of rotting subframes, brake lines, etc. Another possibility is that they drive a BMW, Volvo or VW, which seem naturally rust resistant.

  • avatar

    What happened to Galvanized cars? Porsche, Audi, Chrysler minivans, Chevy Safari’s were made with Galvanized steel bodies, save for the roof. Was it cost cutting, high strength steel, or some other factor that caused the disappearance?

  • avatar
    JimC2

    Isn’t Rust Check around anymore?

  • avatar
    Big Al from Oz

    In aviation we use a product called LPS-3.

    It is used on aircraft that are exposed to maritime conditions as well.

    If I remember it is good for a couple of years.

    Here’s a link;

    http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/612

    Don’t forget to read the technical data.

    • 0 avatar
      JimC2

      Oh yes, LPS-1 and -3 are both carried by at least one hardware store chain in the United States. Good stuff, a lot better than WD-40.

      • 0 avatar
        Big Al from Oz

        @JimC2,
        LPS-3 is different from LPS-2 which we also use, that is similar in use to WD40.

        LPS-3 must be similar to Tectal as it has the same MIL-SPEC, with a different classification number.

        Tectal is the best stuff to use as an anti-corrosive. But the item must be cleaned as it doesn’t have the penetrating power of the LPS-3.

        LPS-2 doesn’t leave a waxy protective coating like LPS-3. I think LPS-2 is good for a year in as an anti-corrosive.

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