Piston Slap: Travel Well, Work Well?

Sajeev Mehta
by Sajeev Mehta

TTAC commentator wstarvingteacher writes:

I have been lurking on this site for at least three years. Comment some but mostly subscribe without commenting. I have been spending some time thinking about what I’m going to buy for my “jack of all trades” second car. Life changes so your needs change also.

I live on five acres just north of Houston. I have had a standard cab pickup that I like a lot more than I ever thought I would. The problem is that we have a need to send my Granddaughter off to school in another state. She said she wanted to buy my truck and with some trepidation I agreed. Now I have to replace it. I think I needed to anyway. Have grown tired of stolen spare tires and tools so I need something with inside storage. I figured a king cab truck would work as would many SUVs. Thought about a minivan but it seems they all have fragile transmissions. I tend to keep cars a long time.

Just to complicate things my wife has a car with a CVT transmission and a trailer hitch voids her warranty. Because of that we need to take longer trips in mine if we need to take anything (canoe etc) along. We will be taking an increasing number of trips. Therefore, mine needs to get over 20mpg on the highway and be able to tow 2000 lbs, (bare bones minimum) locally or highway. I am getting to the age where my eyes dictate I pay others for most of the work I do on vehicles. Therefore, dependability is very important.

I owned Lincoln Town Cars in the past (5.0 models) and they did all that I asked very well. I will have about $6k to spend on this second vehicle. Having a huge trunk while getting over 20mpg and being able to tow over two tons is a strong combination. I know that the Panthers run a long time and there are lots of parts. I also know that the CV(PI or no) and MGM frequently show up for low dollars. My truck will disappear next month and I can get hay or whatever, delivered for the short term. I guess my question(s) is/are:

  • What years panthers should I avoid for known problems such as spitting plugs and plastic intake manifolds?
  • Am I just looking at the panther because it worked for me in the past? Am I missing a good working, long lasting, cheap to fix, long trip vehicle that can work?

Seems like some vehicles travel well and some work well. I can’t think of anything that does both as well as a Panther. I think it is probably the last second car I will buy. Has to last for about 5 years when we will buy another first car.Hope the B & B will see this as fit to chew on for a while!

Sajeev answers:

So you want something that’s durable, gets over 20+ MPG highway, and can tow at least 2000lbs on a somewhat-regular basis. I can hear the Panther Haters among the B&B cringing already. If they even bothered to click on this article…but I digress.

There’s a chance that a minivan (if maintained right) or similar unit-body CUV with a V6 could fit the bill for both towing and efficiency, but they are a bit risky for a long-term owner. You could bite the bullet and buy a real body-on-frame truck or SUV, but they are rather expensive/valuable here in Texas. And their fuel economy stinks, even the compacts/mid size models with the necessary V6 power for your requirements.

Which begs the question, how could you NOT get a Panther? Set the cruise control to 65 mph and you can break 25 MPG, my best is 27 MPG with the A/C off on a 2006 Townie with an aftermarket computer tune. Add a big transmission cooler + trailer brake controller and it’ll safely tow just about any load implied by your letter.

I recommend getting a 2003+ model (doable with your budget), as they come with non-explody intake manifolds, better steering/suspension, hydroformed chassis bits and most will be new enough to avoid excessive wear and years of neglect. The big brakes came in 1998, so you are set there. I don’t believe the 2003+ models ever spit spark plugs, that was a problem with congested Ford truck engine bays, sloppy tune up work (i.e. not a problem when carefully installed) and a different cylinder head design.

Go ahead and find the Panther with the most service records you can find. It’ll travel better than anything else, and it can work hard when needed. Man, I miss not seeing this platform in new car showrooms/rental car lots: it really did it all, even with complete and unrelenting neglect from its maker.

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry…but be realistic, and use your make/model specific forums instead of TTAC for more timely advice.


Sajeev Mehta
Sajeev Mehta

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  • Ryoku75 Ryoku75 on Oct 16, 2013

    Recalls and quality defects are inescapable with Panthers no matter the year, expect to do a bunch of junkyard searching and parts ordering to replace tie-rods, spark plugs, power windows that never last, and make sure that the steering wheel won't pop off like a few others have. Also, pick up a new transmission along with a cooler. In other words, buy a decent 90's Panther for $1500 and use the other $2000 sorting out the Ford-ism. Avoid neglected old lady cars unless if you want to have a car that hasn't lubricated itself in the last 9 years. With Panthers you'll never get a truck bed that'll swallow stuff like a truck unless if you get an old 5.0 wagon, but then be ready for a car with poor caster design and mediocre top-end. The best car that I can suggest on your budget would be a Volvo 745 with a 5.0 Ford swap, theres one on my local craigslist for $2600 thats in good shape. With a Volvo wagon you'll still have to hit the junkyards but replacing things will be a heck of a lot easier, you'll also have a better interior along with a back end that could swallow a fridge.

    • See 1 previous
    • Ryoku75 Ryoku75 on Oct 16, 2013

      @wstarvingteacher Those old Olds Bravadas are pretty trusty and parts are readily available, you'll enjoy the extra space it provides over a Panther and the better ground clearance. My dad had an XTREME Blazer for some time which I never did like, he should've brought a 4-door vanilla model.

  • Baconator Baconator on Oct 17, 2013

    I just read all the comments and realized that the question-asker got to the same answer I was going to suggest: A GMT360 SUV (Trailblazer, Envoy, Saab 9-7x, Oldsmobile Bravada) with the 291-horsepower inline-6. These are rated 22MPG highway and will tow >5000 lbs. Very durable - these are in the "hard to kill" used car category. (Mine is used for towing/hauling/camping and is 10 years old.) And, they made millions of them, so parts are available for cheap at Kragen/O'Reillys/AutoZone/Napa, etc. KBB.com says a 2006 Trailblazer in excellent condition with 60k miles is $5960, just under your cap. Also, they handle at least as well as the Panthers - the benefits of a 10-years-newer platform far offset the higher center of gravity.

    • Gtem Gtem on Oct 17, 2013

      Regardless of what KBB says, you're not going to find a 60k Trailblazer for $6k in anything approaching good condition. Ever since carpocalypse, the car you described would be more like $8-9k.

  • JMII I did them on my C7 because somehow GM managed to build LED markers that fail after only 6 years. These are brighter then OEM despite the smoke tint look.I got them here: https://www.corvettepartsandaccessories.com/products/c7-corvette-oracle-concept-sidemarker-set?variant=1401801736202
  • 28-Cars-Later Why RHO? Were Gamma and Epsilon already taken?
  • 28-Cars-Later "The VF 8 has struggled to break ground in the increasingly crowded EV market, as spotty reviews have highlighted deficiencies with its tech, ride quality, and driver assistance features. That said, the price isn’t terrible by current EV standards, starting at $47,200 with leases at $429 monthly." In a not so surprising turn of events, VinFast US has already gone bankrupt.
  • 28-Cars-Later "Farley expressed his belief that Ford would figure things out in the next few years."Ford death watch starts now.
  • JMII My wife's next car will be an EV. As long as it costs under $42k that is totally within our budget. The average cost of a new ICE car is... (checks interwebs) = $47k. So EVs are already in the "affordable" range for today's new car buyers.We already have two other ICE vehicles one of which has a 6.2l V8 with a manual. This way we can have our cake and eat it too. If your a one vehicle household I can see why an EV, no matter the cost, may not work in that situation. But if you have two vehicles one can easily be an EV.My brother has an EV (Tesla Model Y) along with two ICE Porsche's (one is a dedicated track car) and his high school age daughters share an EV (Bolt). I fully assume his daughters will never drive an ICE vehicle. Just like they have never watched anything but HiDef TV, never used a land-line, nor been without an iPad. To them the concept of an ICE power vehicle is complete ridiculous - you mean you have to STOP driving to put some gas in and then PAY for it!!! Why? the car should already charged and the cost is covered by just paying the monthly electric bill.So the way I see it the EV problem will solve itself, once all the boomers die off. Myself as part of Gen X / MTV Generation will have drive a mix of EV and ICE.
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