By on August 7, 2013

Walt writes:

Mr. Mehta,

I am seriously considering purchasing a 1965 Mustang Fastback from a private seller on craigslist. He owes $3000 on the vehicle. I myself will have to take out a loan to pay for said car. The title to the car is held by the same institution that will be lending me the money. The situation is somewhat further complicated because this institution has no local branches to sit down with a representative and the current payer on the car to do the necessary paperwork. Compounding the issue is the fact that I live in a different state, 200 miles from the car’s location.

Bottom line, I would like to know how to go about this to achieve these objectives:

— My money goes to the rightful person or institution
— I get the proper paperwork to take possession of the vehicle
— The seller is legally compelled and bound to sign the title over to me when I have paid my loan
— I minimize my trips to and from the car’s location

This is my first ever car purchase (worry not, I own another reliable car) so please let me know if I have my facts wrong about the process. Provided these circumstances are not completely heinous and indicative of a potentially bad situation for me, I would like to move forward with my purchase.

Sajeev answers:

OMG…did I really just read that?

Everything here sounds like a unique twist on the typical craigslist scam. If you can’t get a trustworthy, third-party local to sort out this complete Charlie Foxtrot, run like hell. I see nothing worth pursuing in your letter…and not just because I think Fox Mustangs are better than any Pony Car from the 1960s.

And FWIW, needing a loan to buy a classic money pit is a horrible idea. And that’s putting it mildly! If you can’t afford it now, how on earth can you afford the repairs that will come sooner rather than later?  Everything can and will go bad, even the new parts you put on could be defective…it happens all the time!

Come on, Son! Even if the craigslist seller is on the level, you have to pass this one up until your savings account matches your passion for antique vehicles.

(Offline Update from Walt: In the end I decided to pass on the car.  Too much money and too much of a hassle for what was being offered.  I read TTAC daily and enjoy your articles, so keep up the good work!) 


Send your queries to [email protected]com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry…but be realistic, and use your make/model specific forums instead of TTAC for more timely advice. 

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63 Comments on “Piston Slap: Because Nobody Lies on Craigslist!...”

  • avatar

    Well, ’nuff said, I guess

  • avatar

    ” Because Nobody Lies on Craigslist! ”

    Whew , I’m very glad to know that .

    Off I go to sunny Mexico to buy a used truck engine from some guy who doesn’t speak English (seriously) .


  • avatar

    If you ever buy a used car, make sure it’s a certified pre-owned from a dealer.

    “You’re either going to pay a car note, or a mechanic”.

    • 0 avatar

      Yep, CPO muscle cars from the 1960s!

    • 0 avatar
      Jean-Pierre Sarti

      i can’t tell if you are joking or not so i will assume you are not and say this is a ridiculous statement. i have bought and sold plenty of used cars over the years and as a former editor of TTAC used to say, I paraphrase: “you are buying the previous owner’s history with the car as much as you are buying the make and model.”

    • 0 avatar
      Kyree S. Williams

      I disagree. You don’t *need* to stick to certified pre-owned cars. Certainly it’s helpful, but you can find plenty of well-maintained cars that aren’t pre-owned, mainly ones that have been taken in on trade by a dealer that normally sells a different make of car. I’m going with someone today to check out a loaded and lightly-used Chevrolet Cruze LTZ at a Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge dealership…

      • 0 avatar

        Additionally the CPO requirements are fairly strict. You can do well buying a lower mileage car that is a year or two outside the CPO range. I’ve read several places that the maximum value of a used car is the 6-8 year age range.

        Another example is on my lot at this moment, we have a 2012 fiesta with 25k miles. It’s perfect for CPO but the cost of adding CPO would make the car nearly the cost of a new one. Small cars like this have hardly any markup. I sold one at sticker and even with the finance commission I only got $200 bucks.

    • 0 avatar

      No matter what used car you buy, ask for the service records. The one with the most history is often your best choice…even if it may not have the options/trim/color you want.

      • 0 avatar

        I’ve tried several times asking for _ANY_ service records from multiple sellers & nobody has ever been able to tell me anything except “Yes I changed the oil a couple of times” and “I did the brake pads recently”.

        The last car I checked out, from a neighbor had that exact description. After contacting my indie mechnanic he guessed it needed $3k’ish in maintenance that was never done at 30k or 60k miles.

        This is why I’m not a fan of used cars in general. Assuming no service records I have no way to know what is needed as I’m not a mechanic. The only used cars I’d buy are CPO or still within manufacturer warranty. With that being said I b ought my wife a sorrento at 7k off msrp 1 year old with 20k & we haven’t had any issues (outside of cigarette burns in the seats & weird stains all over….)

        If you just see what is rolling around on the roads here in the northern midwest, I think you’d be scared too.

        • 0 avatar

          I’ve never really understood why owners don’t keep their service records. For all my cars, when ever I do maintenance/repairs on them, I just write the mileage on the dated receipt from the parts store and put it in a file. It takes almost no work and adds value/reduces effort when time come to sell forward — especially if you keep your cars a long time, as it’s the difference between a no offers and going to the boneyard car and actually getting some real money for it.

          • 0 avatar

            Everybody has a smart phone. NO reason to even keep the receipt. Note in smartphone app & be done with it. My $120 new/unlocked smartphone has this…

            Obviously if you don’t have a smartphone, paper receipts with mileage numbers work fine as well…

          • 0 avatar

            In some cases, the biggest offenders for ‘losing’ the service records are the car dealers themselves, not the owners. A trade-in comes into the dealer, and whether they put it back out onto the lot or wholesale it, everything inside the car gets removed.

            I’ve actually talked to former owners of cars that were sitting on used car lots who have told me that all of the maintenance history went with the car, but the dealer doesn’t have them.

            As for myself, I use up my cars to the point that they are not worth more than scrap value when I am done with them. I have stopped keeping my own maintenance records, except for writing date/milage of the last oil change on a piece of scotch tape placed inside the upper corner of the windshield.

          • 0 avatar

            I am surprised that anyone expects people today to keep service records anyways. I have heard that as a recommendation for buying used cars and I always laugh. What service records? Oil changes? Most people today go to the dealer or a quick lube joint that will have the records if you really want them, why bother? If you trade the car in, the dealers don’t care. If it is a desirable car, then people will buy it anyway regardless of miles as long as it is in good condition. If a lower mileage car needed a lot of services, why would they want to advertise what a lemon it was by showing a stack of receipts anyway?? If a buyer is asking for them, they will probably be too much trouble to deal with anyway, and a car that hasn’t been taken care of is usually fairly obvious from the appearance.

            Service records are only useful for the buyer who is looking to pay top dollar for a particular older car or a car with higher miles, or special cars like a Porsche, NSX, or a classic car that has known maintenance issues.

          • 0 avatar

            I think keeping the records shows the attitude of the seller toward car maintenance. If they say, “Yeah well I’ve had the oil changed, think I did the brakes at.. like 14k miles ago.” Then they don’t care much for car maintenance. I don’t care what I’m buying – if buying from an individual I want to see a stack of receipts in a folder.

            Why NOT keep them? How does it help anyone to have LESS information? Unless you’re hiding something, keep the records.

            With the proliferation of boards online, most cars have a few “will break” issues which are well-known. If you have a record to show me you fixed it, rather than “yeah some guy did it,” I’m going to trust you much more in the purchase.

          • 0 avatar

            @Corey – I understand your point, and just to be clear, I keep all my receipts and records, I use a great Android app that tracks every expense for my cars, it’s awesome. But I am clearly aware that I am in the extreme minority and really OCD about my cars. I also realize that almost no one out there is like me about cars and maintenance… if I only shopped for used cars from people like me I would have almost no used cars to choose from.

            But two points I have here:

            1. If you are shopping for a used car with less than say 30k miles on it, there are no important receipts to look for aside from a few oil changes. If anything was done like brakes or tires, it would be recent and obvious. Receipts only matter for older cars with higher miles that potentially had more wear items replaced and it would be nice to have a record of it.

            2. If I am shopping for an older, higher mileage yet well maintained car that was previously owned by a guy like me, then it will be obvious by the condition of the car regardless of if I kept receipts or not. Sure it would be nice to find the perfect car, in the perfect condition, right color, right interior, stick shift, etc, and also find a fastidious list of repair and maintenance receipts to go with it. But if I find the perfect car in that good of condition, it won’t stop me from buying it if the guy doesn’t have receipts. If the car is in crappy cosmetic condition, filthy under the hood or looks like a recent repair/repaint, then I don’t care how many receipts he has, I am not buying it anyway so it doesn’t matter.

            Every car I have sold, the first or second guy to look at it buys it and no one asked or cared about receipts, and every car I traded in, the dealer didn’t care either, as long as my car was clean they didn’t ask about maintenance. People with perfect cars and a stack of receipts almost always are trying to get 20-30% more money than the car is worth anyways so it isn’t worth buying from them anyway. The only time it really matters is if I am looking at something special like my dream Porsche 911, or my dream 1970 Mustang fastback, and guys who own cars like that probably have receipts too.

          • 0 avatar

            I think mnm4ever has it about right. You can readily spot most dogs. Always take your prospective purchase to your indy mechanic for a look see, just in case ($100 to $200 well spent). Don’t have an indy mechanic? Best find one (or be one, yourself) if you plan to drive older vehicles.

            Even the much maligned used car salesman can be your asset. If they think you halfway know what you are doing, you usually get treated OK, in particular if they sense follow up sales. Their advantage is that they see a lot of used cars. If they know what you want, they can keep an eye out and call you when they see something you might like. Convenience for you. Easy money for them.

    • 0 avatar

      CPO’s are only good if the come with a long warranty. The typical CPO used to be a lease or a rental car so they tend to not have any of their routine maintenance done. Sure the dealer will harp about the multi point inspections, but I’ve worked on too many where even simple things like dirty filters didn’t get changed.

    • 0 avatar

      ‘Certified’ means a $2,000 to $4,000 premium (at least here in Ontario), and the dealer will say “certified cars are worth $6,000 more, so it’s a great deal. Non-negotiable”. They’ll probably keep a junker on the lot to show you how much better the certified car is.

      Or find a private sale for much less $, be careful about it, and pocket the savings.

  • avatar

    I once tried to use Craigslist to buy a single can of R-12(Freon). That was the first and last time I tried using Craigslist to buy anything automotive.

    As for the Mustang story above, it’s just all kinds of F***ed up. People now owe money on old Mustangs? Banks are willing to loan money on 50 year old cars? When I started driving, fist-gen Mustangs were just old heaps that could be had for $500-$600 dollars. I don’t even remember how many of those things me and my friends smashed. Apparently I’ve woken this morning and found myself is some bizarre alternate universe.

    • 0 avatar

      With agreed upon values and potential to increase said value, it actually makes more financial sense then buying a new car in some respects…. of course you have the “advantages” of gap insurance…

      • 0 avatar

        I still don’t get it. Does the bank send out a Mustang expert to see if these things are really worth the money? I’ve never seen a first gen Mustang (that wasn’t a GT350) that wasn’t hacked on at some point.

        This is just too crazy for me. I’m going back to sleep.

    • 0 avatar

      Never under estimate the power of drunk old men at car auctions and government programs designed to get clunkers off the road.

    • 0 avatar

      “Apparently I’ve woken this morning and found myself is some bizarre alternate universe.”

      My thought exactly!

    • 0 avatar

      On the other side of things, I’ve bought 3 and sold 2 cars on Craigslist with great success. Selling one that was higher priced ($9k, sporty/luxury car) was a bit of a pain because I had to deal with several scammers and 3 buyers that fell through due to financing, but if you say you’ll only deal in person with bank checks or cash filters out most of the noise.

      Under $5k, you’re generally dealing with a cash buyer and it simplifies the whole situation greatly. I sold my wife’s 10-year-old civic in under 18 hours for my asking price a couple years back, and had multiple showings as well.

      Dealing in cash for both of my S2000s was interesting, due to the fact that I went someplace with $10k and $14k in hundreds for the first and second one respectively. Thankfully, they were both nicer suburban areas so I wasn’t too worried.

  • avatar

    I would be leery about buying a car from someone who supposedly owes money on a ’65 Mustang.

  • avatar

    I am continuously entertained by absolutes in regard to anything. I have purchased a dozen cars on the list and have never had any difficulties. Due diligence and common sense will usually serve most sentient humans. No notes, no mechanics, just my own labor – but that’s the fun part. Paying interest on a declining value asset is counter-productive. Except when my wife tells me otherwise.

    • 0 avatar


      Very true. I bought a vehicle on craigslist. Painless. Its a total POS but thats how i bought it. It’s a parts vehicle.

      But, to get the really good deal look out for friends, message boards, etc where people are selling their stuff.

      Bought my pickup that way. On the message board she said she was moving and had another one and was wondering what to do. I messaged her asking if she wanted to sell it. Bam go see it and $400 cash latter and it was mine. Didn’t even negotiate that price believe it or not. Stack of maintenence receipts over the last decade and it was her daily driver.

  • avatar

    Ignore CL. My bad experiences outnumber good experiences 10:1. The only thing that works on CL, sometimes, is “free stuff”.

    I can’t believe the OP is even considering doing anything in that situation….

    • 0 avatar

      I’ve done one “free” listing on CL. It brings about 400 responses in 3 seconds and a quarter of them will becoming weirdly angry if you don’t respond in 30 seconds. That said, it worked, but it wasn’t pleasant.

    • 0 avatar

      I disagree, the worst experience I have had on Craigslist are for when I offered free stuff.

      Can you deliver it?
      Will you guarantee it?
      Will you bring it over to see if I like it?
      Will you take it back if my SO doesn’t like it?

      Having bought and sold dozens of items including about a dozen vehicles , three of which we still own, I still say Craiglist is mostly fine. Just avoid the illiterate, innumerate and obvious dolts.

  • avatar

    I’ve yet to buy a car on CL, but I’ve made some other purchases for a few hundred bucks with good experiences. That being said, the biggest red flag here is not knowing the third party financial institute… It does sound very scammy but we don’t have the full picture. My hunch is that the fellow said “I have it financed through ABC and they’ll finance you too! That way you know it’s legit”. And even if ABC is a real company, there is a very good chance that they are a proxy of the real deal (fake branch). Now potentially it’s all legit.. but you need to find out where the title is and make sure it’s otherwise clear. 200 miles for a classic car is really not that far, however, it might be a bit far for a very common one like the mustang. I’m sure any hassle of driving around would be repaid in knowing that you didn’t just give away thousands of dollars (as you wouldn’t learn of the scam until the title failed to arrive and you are turning over your car to the police as stolen property.

  • avatar

    Oh another thought, I’m not sure how it is in other states, but in Pa, if you look at the registration card, the last two letters of the title number should match the first two letters of his last name. I’m not saying I’d trust the situation if they do match, but if they don’t then def run like hell. I can’t imagine a legit buy here/pay here situation with a mustang like this one.

  • avatar

    I’ve bought & sold many cars on Craigslist with nary a problem (3 of the 4 at our house were acquired that way). However, the beauty of system is it’s simplicity. Meet the seller, look at the goods, hand over cash, get a title. Vehicles out of state, liens and the like completely defeat the object of Craigslist which has always been local.

    It’s a great place to find a bargain, my two caveats are to be sure & know what you’re looking for and when you find it be prepared to head out fast with cash because there’s 20 others doing what you’re doing!

  • avatar

    Good choice, Walt. I’ve owned many classic cars and have never borrowed (save for a maybe a week on the line of credit until other funds couldbe transferred) to buy one. It just doesn’t make sense to be paying interest on something that isn’t actively working for you. The value of classic cars barely keeps up with inflation save for rare instances, let alone a compounded interest rate.

  • avatar

    I am sure the only reason the seller owed money on the stag is he is waiting to have some lottery winnings sent to him form Africa or maybe he lent some cash to a buddy who is stuck at the London Airport after his wallet was stolen.

  • avatar


    A ’65 Mustang fastback is still common and relatively easy to find. I’d look for a cleaner (no bank involvement/debt owed, clean title etc.) deal and I’d use Hemmings or Autotrader.

    This one seems ripe for problems.

  • avatar
    DC Bruce

    This certainly does have a scammy feel to it. It’s hard to imagine anyone lending money against a 40+ year old car.

    I bought a used 1987 Mustang GT from someone who had financed it and had owned it, like 6 months. Her loan was “under water” so we both went to the lender with the title. I paid the lender the agreed-upon purchase price; she paid the balance of the loan and signed the title over to me. The lender released the lien and we were good to go.

    I suspect one could do the transaction that the OP describes by using an attorney as an escrow agent. The attorney holds the signed-over title from the seller until the buyer comes up with the money and pays off the lien holder.

    This is pretty much how home purchase transactions are done every day.

    I am curious as to who was going to lend the OP money on a 1965 Mustang and take a security interest . . . other than some gullible relative.

    • 0 avatar

      My credit union will finance classic cars – 2.00% for 36 month up to 2.75% for 60 months as of today. I haven’t ever asked about the particulars of what qualifies and what if any driving or registration restrictions there are but apparently they think it’s viable.

  • avatar

    I routinely look for good deals on fastback Mustangs… no way a decent one can be found for $3k. If it was, then it would be sold within minutes of the ad being posted to someone local, no way the seller would have to mess around with a guy 200 miles away.

    And to the OP, $3k for a ’65 fastback that is not a rustbucket is not too much money. If you are seriously considering one, they tend to be closer to $20k for nice ones, much more for perfect examples, and $10k for project cars that will require a lot more $$$ to complete.

    Sajeev, I still love Fox bodies though!

    • 0 avatar

      You better. Don’t make me come over there!

      • 0 avatar

        When I showed my wife a few Fox body Mustangs at a local car show she declared them ugly and that I would look like Vanilla Ice driving one. Then she proceeds to point out a ’67 fastback, a ’71 Cuda and several 67-71 Camaros and asked me why I don’t get one of those cars instead because they are cool and I wouldn’t look like a dork in them like the Fox body.

        Yeah, shes sweet like that. Its funny, on one hand I should be able to get what I want, but on the other hand she does have good taste and seems to not mind if I spend more on what she thinks is a “cool” car.

  • avatar

    That’s not really a scam, just a PITA transaction. The biggest red flag for me is on the buyer’s side when he asks what kind of a legal agreement he needs to have to bind the seller to transfer the title. Any legal agreement will suffice. No legal agreement will trump the No. 1 rule for lawyers:


    Or as they said in 12 Chairs, “Money tonight, chairs tomorrow, money in the morning, chairs at night.” “How about chairs in the morning and money at night” “That’s fine, but the chairs will be delivered the following morning, then.”

  • avatar

    Certified Pre-Owned?”

    That’s like people saying Issues, Challenges or Opportunities when they really mean Problems.

    It’s a damned Used Car – why can’t we just call it that?

  • avatar

    I have friends who used Craigslist to successfully buy cars nothing major a passat, civic, talon etc. They come with the typical used car baggage that a car bought at a small used car lot or privately would, but otherwise it was no worse than classified ads.

  • avatar

    I want to know about that BMWRX in the pic above!

  • avatar
    thats one fast cat

    I am so bummed; I was hoping as I read it that he was going to go through with it to learn for himself one of life’s truisms:

    If it sounds too good to be true, it is because it is.

    or maybe

    A ____ and his _____ are soon _________.

    • 0 avatar

      “Perry Griggs ran an investment fraud claiming to sell coffee futures, when all he did was keep investor money. He was convicted of securities fraud and sentenced to eight years in federal prison. While in prison, he started yet another scam. This time his victims were fellow prisoners and their families. Many took second mortgages on their homes to fund Griggs’ fraud.”

      The funniest part of the episode is the interview with the FBI agent who had to interview these people. He was like, “You invested money with a guy who was in Federal Prison for fraud? Please tell me why you thought that was a good idea.”

    • 0 avatar

      A fool and his money are soon elected.

  • avatar

    Usually the way these Craigslist scams work is they hope the “greed” part of the brain overrides the “logical” side. If it’s a “smoking” deal way under market, usually that means something is amiss. They know people will scramble to get money in their hands as soon as possible and ignore warning signs. It’s all about getting the “great” deal before somebody else does.

    I’m not sure if I understand exactly what the asking price was or it was what was left on the loan, but the fact it was a ’65 Mustang fastback for only $3,000 should have set off the alarm bells. Just a shell with no engine or interior will go for more than that, an actual running one in decent shape probably starts at $15k, and that would be a smoking deal.

    If you can’t touch it and take it home with payment, I would say 99% of the time it’s a scam.

  • avatar

    This is one of those times that I love reading how some technological thing (Craiglist in this case) is the devil and has completely fucked up the world. Craigslist is newspaper classifieds. That’s it. People have sold used cars this way since cars became used. Craigslist isn’t some magical thing.

    That being said I’d like to agree with the people who say you should stay off CL for car related stuff because I make a pretty good living buying and selling cars there and don’t need the competition.

    • 0 avatar

      I think the difference is, Craigs List is free. Newspaper ads cost money.

      I would say 99.9% of the classified ads in the “newspaper” days were not scams.

      If CraigsList charged a nominal fee (like a dollar an ad) I think you would see the 3rd world scammers move to greener pastures. Not that I’m advocating CraigsList actually do this, but the “free” part of the internet brings out the scammers because there’s almost zero investment or penalty on their part.

  • avatar

    I’m sorry… you lost me at “will have to take out a loan” Loans on a 50 year old car… that’s just ridiculous. Either you can afford it or you can’t. Classic case of “cart before horse” syndrome.

    If the previous owner has a loan, chances are he isn’t super meticulous with maintenance either… if he even exists.

    Walk away. Come back when you’ve got the cash.

  • avatar

    Glad to see the update from Walt.

    This is a don’t-walk-RUN-away deal. Seller of 50-year-old car (no matter how cool a ’65 Mustang is. I’ve got one in my garage. I will have owned it for 30 years come October, and it’s not ever going to be for sale in my lifetime) owes money on it and is selling it on CL instead of on one of many specialty fora dedicated to old Mustangs or collectible cars in general?

    Yeah, there isn’t anything about this that is NOT shady. There’s every chance the car is a sharp glance away from collapsing into a heap of body filler and iron oxide.

    There are so many GOOD ’65-’66 Mustangs out there that it’s just not worth going into hock for a bad one. They aren’t going away anytime soon, and there’s a robust industry built around keeping them alive and happy, so there will be one waiting for you when you’re able to afford it.

    And Jeeves is dead on on this point: Do Not Ever Go Into Debt On A Collectible Car.

    • 0 avatar

      Aren’t there companies who produce entire bodies-in-white, licensed through Ford, for this purpose?

      If so, couldn’t you almost build a new ‘Stang from scratch, given the plethora of parts, if money wasn’t an issue, and that you had a drivetrain, e.g. a Hi-Po 289 and transmission (or even a crate motor) to drop in? I assume the frame can be built by a machine shop or auto-body specialist, given specs.

      Obviously, it wouldn’t be worth as much as an original. Also, would such a Franken-‘Stang be insurable?

      Has anyone successfully tried (or been caught) trying a kit-car Mustang scam?

  • avatar
    Domestic Hearse

    FROM: Dr Altaka Yurmani
    Central Bank of Nigeria
    Lagos, Nigeria

    TO: Walt

    Dear Sir:

    I have been requested by the Nigerian National Classic Automobile Collection and Restoration Company, LLC to contact you for assistance in resolving a matter. The Nigerian National Classic Automobile Collection and Restoration Company has recently concluded a large number of contracts for the acquisition of first generation Ford Mustang pony cars sub-Sahara region. The contracts have immediately produced moneys equaling US$40,000,000. The Nigerian National Classic Automobile Collection and Restoration Company is desirous of first generation Ford Mustang pony cars in other parts of the world, however, because of certain regulations of the Nigerian Government, it is unable to move these funds to another region.

    You assistance is requested as a non-Nigerian citizen to assist the Nigerian National Classic Automobile Collection and Restoration Company, and also the Central Bank of Nigeria, in moving these funds out of Nigeria. If the funds can be transferred to your name, in your United States account, then you can forward the funds as directed by the Nigerian National Classic Automobile Collection and Restoration Company. In exchange for your accommodating services, the Nigerian National Classic Automobile Collection and Restoration Company would agree to allow you to retain 10%, or US$4 million of this amount. In addition, you may select a 1965 Mustang fastback of your own choosing.

    However, to be a legitimate transferee of these moneys according to Nigerian law, you must presently be a depositor of at least US$5,000 in a Nigerian bank which is regulated by the Central Bank of Nigeria.

    If it will be possible for you to assist us, we would be most grateful. We suggest that you meet with us in person in Lagos, and that during your visit I introduce you to the representatives of the Nigerian National Classic Automobile Collection and Restoration Company, as well as with certain officials of the Central Bank of Nigeria.

    Please call me at your earliest convenience at 18-467-4975. Time is of the essence in this matter; very quickly the Nigerian Government will realize that the Central Bank is maintaining this amount on deposit, and attempt to levy certain depository taxes on it.

    Yours truly,

    Prince Alyusi Islassis

  • avatar

    I have sold and purchased many car off Craigslist. You do have to do your home work and know the car you are buying. Some of the fastest transactions i have had selling cars was with Craigslist. Yes their are scams but if you use common sense you can do all right. I live in Queens NY and 3 months ago i purchased in New Jersey a very low mileage 1991 Mazda Miata in great condition. Most of these cars were purchased new by people in their retirement years and ended up parked in their garage until they passed away and the family just wants to get rid of car because they they think it is worthless. New Tires and a little work to get things in order and you have a car you can enjoy driving. I can not get over how simple these cars are. It is a joy to work on them compared to the newer cars. I have purchased new cars, CPO cars and used cars. I still think a well cared for used car is the best buy. If you don’t know anything about cars bring along someone who knows cars and you can have a fun afternoon.

  • avatar

    As a word to the wise, is infested with misleading ads. They are shifting a bit away from cars to boats, so be careful out there.

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