Piston Slap: Playing Super Breakout by Itself?

Sajeev Mehta
by Sajeev Mehta

C.V. writes:

I am a mechanical engineering student looking to learn how to work on cars.

My friend has given me the opportunity to take his 1988 Mazda B2200 extra-cab 5-speed. When I drove it, I saw why. The catalytic converter has broken off, and apparently pieces of it are in the exhaust. Would it be possible to just replace the catalytic converter, or should I replace the whole exhaust?

Also while driving it, there is a weird problem. About 10 or so minutes after startup and driving, it starts bucking back and forth as if I was engaging and disengaging the clutch. Any idea as to why that is happening? Theoretically the truck could drive even with this problem, but I don’t think it’s safe or good for the truck. What should I do?

Sajeev answers:

It wasn’t long ago that I was an mechanical engineering student looking to work on cars. Hell, it’s way more fun than a semester of Thermodynamics, Solid and Fluid Mechanics! So what’s my advice? Join the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) as a student and join the local chapter in your college. The SAE chapter at the University of Texas changed my life, in a good way. And if you don’t have a chapter? MAKE ONE!

Oh wait…you wanted advice on the truck, not your career. My bad.

The first problem is pretty easy, replace the convertor. Or not: eventually the loose bits of honeycomb inside will stop playing Super Breakout with itself, exit stage left, and it still might pass an emissions test. If not, any exhaust shop can slap in a new one, and I just Googled one for $270 that’s a direct replacement. I am sure you college kids use Google all the time, why not for a sweet little truck?

The second one is usually a combination of a poor gear change technique and a lack of fuel. Or maybe too much fuel. Does it buck less if you give it more gas and take more time to let out the clutch? Problem solved. If not, I’d recommend rebuilding the carb, seafoaming the motor (at your own risk, see YouTube for reasons why), and testing the fuel pressure. Actually not in that order: start with fuel pressure, then maybe learn how to work on a carb.

Or convert it to a later-model EFI setup! Or even better, LS1-FTW!!! You are an engineer for a reason!

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com . Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

Sajeev Mehta
Sajeev Mehta

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  • Greaseyknight Greaseyknight on Jan 23, 2012

    The bucking almost sounds like the exhaust pipe/muffler is clogged with bits of the catalytic converter, and is creating alot of back pressure. We had a Nissan Quest that did something similar when hot, it got worse to the point where it wouldn't move. Took the exhaust apart and cleaned all the pieces out.

    • Fincar1 Fincar1 on Jan 23, 2012

      +1; same thing happened with my 1999 Accord when it had 150k or so miles on it. It had given a check engine light that I ignored because of a year's worth of spurious indications before that.

  • Millmech Millmech on Jan 23, 2012

    I had a Nissan truck, 1983, with a carb; anyway, that + a number of other 80s vehicles would "jerk off" if trying to coast with ANY amount of throttle. The only way to coast in gear smoothly was to take foot OFF the throttle. Having said that, something made the converter come apart; better find out what.

  • 28-Cars-Later Why RHO? Were Gamma and Epsilon already taken?
  • 28-Cars-Later "The VF 8 has struggled to break ground in the increasingly crowded EV market, as spotty reviews have highlighted deficiencies with its tech, ride quality, and driver assistance features. That said, the price isn’t terrible by current EV standards, starting at $47,200 with leases at $429 monthly." In a not so surprising turn of events, VinFast US has already gone bankrupt.
  • 28-Cars-Later "Farley expressed his belief that Ford would figure things out in the next few years."Ford death watch starts now.
  • JMII My wife's next car will be an EV. As long as it costs under $42k that is totally within our budget. The average cost of a new ICE car is... (checks interwebs) = $47k. So EVs are already in the "affordable" range for today's new car buyers.We already have two other ICE vehicles one of which has a 6.2l V8 with a manual. This way we can have our cake and eat it too. If your a one vehicle household I can see why an EV, no matter the cost, may not work in that situation. But if you have two vehicles one can easily be an EV.My brother has an EV (Tesla Model Y) along with two ICE Porsche's (one is a dedicated track car) and his high school age daughters share an EV (Bolt). I fully assume his daughters will never drive an ICE vehicle. Just like they have never watched anything but HiDef TV, never used a land-line, nor been without an iPad. To them the concept of an ICE power vehicle is complete ridiculous - you mean you have to STOP driving to put some gas in and then PAY for it!!! Why? the car should already charged and the cost is covered by just paying the monthly electric bill.So the way I see it the EV problem will solve itself, once all the boomers die off. Myself as part of Gen X / MTV Generation will have drive a mix of EV and ICE.
  • 28-Cars-Later [Model year is 2010] "and mileage is 144,000"Why not ask $25,000? Oh too cheap, how about $50,000?Wait... the circus is missing one clown, please report to wardrobe. 2010 AUDI A3 AWD 4D HATCHBACK PREMIUM PLUS
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