Best Rust Converters and Removers: Rid the Iron Oxide

Matthew Guy
by Matthew Guy

Top 8 Best Rust Converters and Removers

Before you get bent out of shape, know that this post isn’t about those infernal gadgets that late-night television tries to sell us. You know the ones – they promise to send an electric charge through the body of a vehicle to allegedly neutralize conditions in which rust normally forms. The less said about those, the better.

No, this post is about product for the person who’s tackling body repair on their vehicle. Knowing the average TTAC reader (and writer), it’s likely a vehicle with copious amounts of rust, not to mention several hundred yards of increasingly sketchy wiring repairs. These products are intended to remove surface rust without excessive scrubbing or sanding, thereby making it fit for paint prep.

And, before you go out and thrown down money on items like these, use patience and common sense with this stuff. Read all the warning labels and use gloves if recommended.

Table of Contents

1. Editor's Choice: Evapo-Rust Original

Despite its dollar store-style brand name and anonymous packaging, Evapo-Rust seems to be one of the most popular options on Amazon. It is an environmentally-safe water-based product that removes rust in minutes, without scrubbing or sanding.

Critically, it is non-toxic, said to emit no odors, and is safe on skin and eyes. Best of all, the seller claims it requires no special equipment (gloves, protective eyewear, masks) and will not harm unrusted steel or affect plastic, PVC, and most paints. It's even claimed to be reusable, with one gallon de-rusting up to 300 pounds of steel. That's about the same amount of steel remaining on Mr. Tonn's personal Mazda MX-5, by the way.

Pros

  • Checks all the boxes for safe use, toxicity, and reusability

Cons

  • Requires soaking of the affected metal

Bottom Line

  • Science is a wonderful thing

2. Rust-Oleum Automotive Rust Reformer

If Mr. Miyagi taught the Karate Kid to 'wax on, wax off', this product teaches us to, well, spray on, at least. Rust-Oleum has been around since approximately five minutes after metal was invented, so there's little doubt they know what they're doing. In the grand scheme of things at Rust-Oleum, this is technically one of their most recent products.

This product instantly bonds with rust and transforms it into a non-rusting, flat-black paintable surface and prevents future rust. It saves the user all that infernal effort of sanding rust down to the bare metal. Use a wire brush to get rid of large rust flakes before applying.

Pros

  • Well-known, easy to use

Cons

  • Hope you like black paint

Bottom Line

  • Quick n' easy

3. JENOLITE Rust Converter

Evoking a sense of British pride while making the jar look like a tub of Marmite? That's a sure-fire ticket to inclusion on this list. Its claim of being a quick and simple one-stop solution for dealing with rust on any iron or steel object doesn't hurt, either.

According to the seller, just one application of Jenolite Rust Reformer converts a rusty surface into a smooth and stable ready-to-paint finish in 3-4 hours. Simply brush onto rusted areas and leave the product to dry. The water-based formula converts rust into a stable hydrophobic complex that seals and transforms the surface into a smooth protective polymer coating.

Pros

  • Actually attempts to back up its claims with science-y words

Cons

  • May attempt to make British tea at break time

Bottom Line

  • Available in 8oz or gallon tubs

4. Loctite Extend Rust Neutralizer

Loctite apparently makes products beyond ones that make engine disassembly impossible for the next mechanic. This rust neutralizer is a solution to mild surface oxidization, chemically converting the rust to a neutral black surface that's ready to paint.

To use, simply apply Henkel Loctite Extend Rust Neutralizer on the rusted surface and follow up with a coat of oil-based or lacquer-based paint to protect the surface from future exposure to moisture. Like Rust-Oleum, Loctite has been around forever which gives some peace of mind when splashing out your hard-earned money.

Pros

  • Majority of reviews are very positive, great for tackling small jobs

Cons

  • Tiny bottle, light duty

Bottom Line

  • Eight ounces of prevention

5. Rust Converter ULTRA - Pro Grade Rust Repair

A gallon of this stuff apparently covers 500 square feet of smooth metal, or roughly the size of one engine cover on a Dodge Challenger. It converts rust to an inert coating that seals out moisture to prevent further corrosion.

Like others, it recommends to Remove large rust and scale particles with a wire brush or sandpaper and then clean the area to remove dust and dirt. One can apply the product with a brush, roller, or pump sprayer. Oddly, it exhorts in ALL CAPS to shake or still this stuff well before using.

Pros

  • Dries to a finish in 20 minutes

Cons

  • Costly, surface temp must be +50°F

Bottom Line

  • This jug should last for ages

6. Corroseal Water-Based Rust Converter

Using a brush, roller, or spray, users are directed to apply a thick coat of Corroseal to the offending metal after removing large pieces and flakes of rust. According to the company, the thicker the coat of product, the better. It will be white when first applied, then begin to turn black as it converts rust.

After leaving it to sit for 15 minutes, check for brown or gray spots peeking through. If any are present, apply another thick coat. A second coat is encouraged to get all rust covered with no seepage. While this might sound like a ruse to sell more product, real-world reviews seem to support this application procedure with some users recommending three or more coats depending on the surface.

Pros

  • Large fan base of satisfied customers

Cons

  • You'll probably need lots

Bottom Line

  • Apply profusely for best results

7. VHT Rust Convertor Can

This is a product designed to be sprayed directly on rusted areas to help prevent future rust from forming. It sprays on clear and turns to a black metal protectant coating. The seller states that it can be sanded to a smooth and even finish.

The ad says it is specifically formulated for application over metal, body filler, or fiberglass. While the last two definitely don't form any rust, it's good to know those surfaces can handle a bit of this stuff on overspray. According to reviews, a couple of cans will be enough to coat the underside of a midsize car.

Pros

  • Convenient can, easy to apply

Cons

  • More than one can will likely be required for many jobs

Bottom Line

  • Allow 24hrs dry time before applying a top coat

8. Rust Kutter- Rust Converter

The spellcheck-vexing Rust Kutter is yet another liquid spray that is intended to eliminate rust and prime metal to prevent rust from forming again. Ready to use the minute it shows up on your doorstep in an Amazon box, it comes in a plastic bottle complete with sprayer.

Based on feedback, it would seem this stuff is best used in light-duty applications and not for wholesale car repair. Also be aware that, while it isn't mentioned in the ad, some buyers said using gloves is essential with this stuff; make sure to read the label.

Pros

  • Easy-peasy spritzing application

Cons

  • Might be more irritable than similar products

Bottom Line

  • Good candidate for small jobs

What is the most effective rust converter?

Usually, rust converters comprise two major ingredients, namely organic polymer and tannic acid. When applied to the affected area, the two compounds of these water-based solutions interact with the rust and convert the iron oxide (the chemical term for ‘rust’) into an adherent layer that works as a strong protective shield against moisture, thus preventing the metal from any further corrosions.

When talking about the most effective rust converters, some commercial solutions have additional acids that help expedite the process of conversion. Therefore, while buying one, you may want to check what kind of ingredients does it have, and whether will it be able to speed up the chemical reaction of turning iron oxide into moisture-resistant armor.

Should I use rust remover or converter?

Honestly, it depends on the object you want to treat. According to the basic characteristics of the two, rust removers use concentrated acid to strip iron oxide from the iron, whereas the converters use a chemical process to turn rust into a moisture-resistant protective shield that prevents the metal from future corrosion, and the effect is long-lasting. Considering this, you may want to use:

Rust Remover

If you want to restore the metal to its original state, and no repainting or further polishing is required. Some of the good examples could be the interior of a gas tank, screwdrivers, etc.

Rust Converter

If the affected area needs to be repainted after the treatment for finishing looks and future protection, and want the iron to stay safe for a longer time. Some examples include the exterior of a gas tank, external body parts of your vehicle, etc.

Furthermore, removing rust with a rust remover is a slow process as it may take a while for the chemical to loosen up iron oxide before it is stripped off from the surface. On the other hand, rust converters can be applied as paint and work comparatively faster, thus saving a decent amount of your time.

What is the best rust removing product?

Because rust removers have concentrated acid formulation that attacks iron oxide deposited over the base material, it is imperative to pick a quality solution from a trusted brand. Some of the top products reviewed by the users include:

Rust 911 Ultra Concentrate ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008HS4OZ4/)

Available in a concentrated formula, Rust 911 is mixed with water in the 16:1 ratio (8oz per gallon) while applying to remove rust from the metal. Because the product is a water-based solution, it is pocket-friendly as compared to its competitors.

POR-15 Rust Remover ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NRDPRR3)

Although POR-15 contains phosphoric acid along with some other hard chemicals, this reusable and biodegradable solution still doesn’t do any harm to the objects with PVC or Viton as base material, and is safe for the paints as well.

WD-40 Rust Remove Soak ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00631GZEU/)

This solution is the cheapest on the list and offers good value for money as it works pretty well on threaded rods and metal sheets. For best results, the only thing that the manufacturer suggests to do before its application is to remove oil and grease from the affected area.

Depending on your usage and budget, you can pick any of the above to restore the iron in your vehicle to its original and pure state.

Do rust converters actually work?

A short and quick answer would be, yes, they do. Because rust converters comprise tannic acid and organic polymer along with some other acids to expedite the process, they convert iron oxide into a strong moisture-resistant black adherent layer that safeguards the metal from further corrosions, thus offering longer life to the body part of your car.

From time to time, TTAC will highlight automotive products we think may be of interest to our community. Plus, posts like this help to keep the lights on around here. Learn more about how this works.

(Editor’s note: This post is meant to both help you be an informed shopper for automotive products but also to pay for our ‘90s sedan shopping habits operating expenses. Some of you don’t find these posts fun, but they help pay for Junkyard Finds, Rare Rides, Piston Slaps, and whatever else. Thanks for reading.)

[Main photo credit: Boophucket / Shutterstock.com. Product images provided by the manufacturer.]

Matthew Guy
Matthew Guy

Matthew buys, sells, fixes, & races cars. As a human index of auto & auction knowledge, he is fond of making money and offering loud opinions.

More by Matthew Guy

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  • Bd2 Lexus is just a higher trim package Toyota. ^^
  • Tassos ONLY consider CIvics or Corollas, in their segment. NO DAMNED Hyundais, Kias, Nissans or esp Mitsus. Not even a Pretend-BMW Mazda. They may look cute but they SUCK.I always recommend Corollas to friends of mine who are not auto enthusiasts, even tho I never owed one, and owned a Civic Hatch 5 speed 1992 for 25 years. MANY follow my advice and are VERY happy. ALmost all are women.friends who believe they are auto enthusiasts would not listen to me anyway, and would never buy a Toyota. They are damned fools, on both counts.
  • Tassos since Oct 2016 I drive a 2007 E320 Bluetec and since April 2017 also a 2008 E320 Bluetec.Now I am in my summer palace deep in the Eurozone until end October and drive the 2008.Changing the considerable oils (10 quarts synthetic) twice cost me 80 and 70 euros. Same changes in the US on the 2007 cost me $219 at the dealers and $120 at Firestone.Changing the air filter cost 30 Euros, with labor, and there are two such filters (engine and cabin), and changing the fuel filter only 50 euros, while in the US they asked for... $400. You can safely bet I declined and told them what to do with their gold-plated filter. And when I changed it in Europe, I looked at the old one and it was clean as a whistle.A set of Continentals tires, installed etc, 300 EurosI can't remember anything else for the 2008. For the 2007, a brand new set of manual rec'd tires at Discount Tire with free rotations for life used up the $500 allowance the dealer gave me when I bought it (tires only had 5000 miles left on them then)So, as you can see, I spent less than even if I owned a Lexus instead, and probably less than all these poor devils here that brag about their alleged low cost Datsun-Mitsus and Hyundai-Kias.And that's THETRUTHABOUTCARS. My Cars,
  • NJRide These are the Q1 Luxury division salesAudi 44,226Acura 30,373BMW 84,475Genesis 14,777Mercedes 66,000Lexus 78,471Infiniti 13,904Volvo 30,000*Tesla (maybe not luxury but relevant): 125,000?Lincoln 24,894Cadillac 35,451So Cadillac is now stuck as a second-tier player with names like Volvo. Even German 3rd wheel Audi is outselling them. Where to gain sales?Surprisingly a decline of Tesla could boost Cadillac EVs. Tesla sort of is now in the old Buick-Mercury upper middle of the market. If lets say the market stays the same, but another 15-20% leave Tesla I could see some going for a Caddy EV or hybrid, but is the division ready to meet them?In terms of the mainstream luxury brands, Lexus is probably a better benchmark than BMW. Lexus is basically doing a modern interpretation of what Cadillac/upscale Olds/Buick used to completely dominate. But Lexus' only downfall is the lack of emotion, something Cadillac at least used to be good at. The Escalade still has far more styling and brand ID than most of Lexus. So match Lexus' quality but out-do them on comfort and styling. Yes a lot of Lexus buyers may be Toyota or import loyal but there are a lot who are former GM buyers who would "come home" for a better product.In fact, that by and large is the Big 3's problem. In the 80s and 90s they would try to win back "import intenders" and this at least slowed the market share erosion. I feel like around 2000 they gave this up and resorted to a ton of gimmicks before the bankruptcies. So they have dropped from 66% to 37% of the market in a quarter century. Sure they have scaled down their presence and for the last 14 years preserved profit. But in the largest, most prosperous market in the world they are not leading. I mean who would think the Koreans could take almost 10% of the market? But they did because they built and structured products people wanted. (I also think the excess reliance on overseas assembly by the Big 3 hurts them vs more import brands building in US). But the domestics should really be at 60% of their home market and the fact that they are not speaks volumes. Cadillac should not be losing 2-1 to Lexus and BMW.
  • Tassos Not my favorite Eldorados. Too much cowbell (fins), the gauges look poor for such an expensive car, the interior has too many shiny bits but does not scream "flagship luxury", and the white on red leather or whatever is rather loud for this car, while it might work in a Corvette. But do not despair, a couple more years and the exterior designs (at least) will sober up, the cowbells will be more discreet and the long, low and wide 60s designs are not far away. If only the interiors would be fit for the price point, and especially a few acres of real wood that also looked real.
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