TTAC commentator Robstar writes:

Hi Sajeev,

I bought a new 2005 Subaru WRX STi in March of 2005, it currently has around 51k miles on it. Rotors have been replaced once, brake pads twice. The car still has it’s original clutch! It went from being an occasional commuting car in all city traffic to an every-day 60 mile RT jaunt mostly highway.

With all of that said I don’t think I’m rough on the car as it’s rated EPA 16/22 and over the latest 5300 miles (since I started keeping track) I’m averaging 23.5mpg in mixed driving. Before I present my issue, keep something in mind:

I’m hard of hearing and have lost roughly half my hearing since birth (I was born without normal hearing). I’m also currently demoing NEW hearing aides and I’m hearing new sounds I’ve never heard before. I recently heard my infant sons white noise machine for the first time as well as the doorbell.

On to the issue…..

I noticed yesterday after my drive home and parking in my driveway (faces uphill), after turning the car off that it sounds like “popcorn popping” under the hood! I’m not sure if this sound is normal or has always been there and I never noticed. This is with the CAR OFF/STOPPED/PARKED after a 25 mile highway jaunt at fairly consistent speeds in a straight line. I’ve search NASIOC and could only find people complaining about this with the car ON, so I have no idea what my issue could be. The temp gauge in the car didn’t go off and no smoke or excess heat seemed to be coming from the hood. After opening the hood, and calling my wife outside to listen, she pointed to the sound coming from somewhere around the inter-cooler or “red pipe”.Thanks for any help you can give.

Sajeev answers:

Congrats on your invigorated sense of hearing!  I can’t even imagine the joy you must feel. More to the point, about the Subie’s problem: Pop it like it’s Hot.

I have no idea what I just said.

Which makes sense, as I don’t have a good answer for your Subie’s problem.  Perhaps you have some sort of pre-ignition backfire from a fuel pump/injector that won’t shut off when the key is out of the ignition.  Or perhaps you are just hearing your extra hot, turbocharged exhaust popping as it cools down.  I think the latter is likely.

Either way, if your fuel economy is fine and there are no trouble codes generated by the computer, I wouldn’t worry about this one.  Enjoy the new found sound of your sweet ride.  It’s just poppin…like it’s hawwwwt!

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry…but be realistic, and use your make/model specific forums instead of TTAC for more timely advice.

If you read British buff books like EVO, it would be easy to think that the hot versions of the Subaru Impreza are fixtures of the UK’s motoring landscape. Not only are they beloved by enthusiasts, but the WRX is even employed as a police car in certain municipalities. But starting in 2013, British car buyers won’t be able to purchase one of the small Scoobies.

A lack of demand has led Subaru UK to kill off the Impreza, and its more sporting variants. AutoExpress reports that

“The new Impreza has been under evaluation in the UK for 12 months, but the decision has been taken not to bring that car to the UK because of insufficient demand…Subaru is concentrating on what it’s really good at – so we’re concentrating on SUVs and the BRZ – we’re hoping to get more [BRZs] next year to satisfy strong demand for that car.”

That means that going foward, the XV, Outback and Forester will be the staples of the lineup, as well as the BRZ. The Legacy may not even survive. Luckily, UK buyers can still import vehicles from Japan as grey market cars.

TTAC Commentator robstar writes:

Hello Sajeev+Piston Slap Audience,

A few weeks ago I saw something strange with my lightly-used-never-abused 2005 Subaru WRX STi — A “R. Diff Temp” started flickering on the dashboard. This particular day it was quite cold and it came on as I reversed out of the garage backward down a sloping driveway. After going one block (in forward, not reverse) with this behavior, I turned the car off and let it sit for a minute. After turning the car back on, this didn’t happen again for about 3 weeks — until after the mechanic changed the oil. I drove the car back to the mechanic who looked under the car & thinks the sensor is going bad (7 year old car, 45k miles, ~ full synthetic oil change 3 times/year). He said he can’t see any sign of an Rear Diff leak so it should be OK to drive home (40 miles). After the first 7 miles or so mostly city the light turned off & was completely off for the last 33 or so miles all the way home. The only prior issue I’ve had with this car was an engine valve spring at 10k that was replaced under warranty.

I’ll admit — I’ve been a bad on the maint side, however this car sees about 80% highway usage typically at 55-65mph. No clutch dumps, no redlining — rev matching when downshifting……I pretty much baby it. So why did I buy this car? For fun in the snow.

I am going to have him actually swap out the R. Diff fluid when he replaces the sensor, but do you guys think it’s simply just a bad sensor or some other problem?

To make things easy, the car has NEVER been modified (Yes, it’s probably the only Stock WRX STi that exists). The only parts different from stock are that I now have winter tires (stock size) on steel rims (stock size) for the winter here in Chicago.

Thanks Sajeev!

Sajeev answers:

Is there a chance that, during the fluid change,  the sensor was (unnecessarily) removed? And over-torqued? And it broke? Oh wait, the “after the mechanic changed the oil” remark was about the engine, not the differential. Right?

Sensors can go bad at any point, that’s the beauty of a somewhat fragile/complex piece of electronics living in a rather brutal environment.  I can’t Google a good reason for why your sensor is out of range, so maybe the control module is at fault. Or maybe the ground is dirty and no longer doing its job.  Or the wiring harness is damaged somewhere. This thread on NASIOC looks pretty comprehensive for your diagnostic needs.

So there you have it. Good luck with all that.

EDIT: A far superior title came to me, thanks to the B&B.  Explanation here.

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

Aaron writes:

Sajeev,

I currently own a 2007 WRX Wagon with a little over 100,000 miles on it. I love this car, even enough to overlook getting merely 21mpg. Anyways.
As is true with many import car owners who love too much, I started modifying the car almost as soon as I got it. It currently has a 3″ exhaust, a tune, and some miscellaneous other engine bits, with suspension components on order. The car is my current project, and I plan on keeping it for some time. There’s a slight problem though.
My problem is easy to spell: BRZ. Probably in a year or 18 months, I will give into temptation, and pull the trigger on a BRZ or FR-S (or some other cool thing that exists by then). So here’s my question (I’m getting to it, bear with me): Is it worth returning the car to stock? By the time I sell it, it will be 6 or 7 years old, and probably have north of 140,000 miles on it. The exhaust may be worth a few hundred bucks, the sway bars might be worth something, but very few other things will net any money at all. The real question is about the resale value of the car. I’d expect to get maybe 8k at best for a 140k+ mile Subaru, and that’s probably optimistic. Will the bolt-ons really push it down further?

Thanks in advance,
Aaron

Sajeev answers:

I hope there’s a good power adder for the BRZ/FR-S at that time, because you are taking a serious hit in performance from your current Subie.  I haven’t had time to rant about the new RWD wonder, but since you opened that door for me…at least I’ll be brief:

• 2012 Subaru BRZ torque peak = 151 lb-ft @ 6000 rpm
• 2011 Ford Ranger Duratec I-4 torque peak = 154 lb-ft @3750 rpm
• BRZ-LSX-FTW:  think about it.

Well then! One way or another, the next owner of your WRX needs those stock parts.  They add value and show that you aren’t a stereotypical WRX hackjob type of person. You know, one of those warranty-voiding, drive line punishing type of owner.  Even if you are! But that’s not the point…

I don’t know which parts are the most valuable on the Subie forums’ classifieds section, but I’ll wager that the swaybars and the exhaust need to go up there.  If you want the next owner to have the opportunity at having them, first offer it for sale with the stock parts in the cargo area.  If that fails, return back to stock and offer the aftermarket parts for another $500-1000…or whatever sounds right to you. If that fails, sell as stock as possible and offer the bits to the forum.

Now if you’re just gonna trade this into a dealership or Carmax, forget everything I said: return it to stock. They always lower the value when they see non-stock stuff.  Perhaps you should just give the aftermarket bits to someone so you can enjoy the better karma…why let the dealership give someone else that pleasure?

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

Jim writes:

Hi,

I hope you are well. I have several questions regarding my 2011 Forester (5 speed):

a) I drive 8 to 10K annually and change the 5w-20 every 6 months.  Is this sufficient?

b) Subaru keeps sending me extended warranty offers.   This tells me that I likely don’t need it.  What do you think?    My favorite moment when purchasing the Forester: The F & I rep mentioning “If people want to drive around without the extended warranty, it is not my problem.”

I have been surprisingly happy with this car.  It handles well, is quick and I’ve been getting 23mpg city and 28 to 30 on the highway. I found this to be a much more enjoyable drive than a CR-V, RAV4 (not great at all) or the old Escape.

Best wishes,

Jim

Sajeev answers:

I am well, thank you so much for asking!  If my googling is correct, Subaru has a somewhat complicated service schedule for 2011 models. To wit:

• 2011 Outback, Legacy, Tribeca, Impreza, (exc turbos): Some owner’s manuals will recommend using synthetic but not require it. Owners manuals printed around March 2011 presumably indicate all Subarus require synthetic oil.
• All 2011 models use 5w-30 except the Forester X which uses 0w-20

Oops. This leads me to believe you are using the wrong oil (20 weight), and indirectly justy-fies (get it?) the North American Subaru Impreza Owner’s Club’s sub-forum for warranty problems. That said, I think your oil change interval is acceptable, based on your letter and my first hyperlink.  You could extend your oil change intervals to whatever the dashboard may tell you, but I don’t see the utility in it.

On to your warranty question:  most Subies fare quite well if they receive regular maintenance and are NOT owned by the stereotypical clutch-murdering, turbo-overboosting WRX owner. The mere fact that you wrote a nice letter with good detail implies you will take good care of this vehicle and will love it.  As such, no need for the warranty.

And go back and hug that F&I person for “not caring”, reminding them that this level of indifference is precisely what the automotive retailing industry needs to restore its regularly-tarnished image. Or not.

My last point: if you didn’t ask me how I was doing and wrote about owning (not leasing) damn near anything from Europe made in the last decade, well, that would be a different story.

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com . Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

]]> http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2012/03/piston-slap/feed/ 37 http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2011/12/new-or-used-eliminate-debt-eliminate-subie/ http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2011/12/new-or-used-eliminate-debt-eliminate-subie/#comments Thu, 01 Dec 2011 16:46:41 +0000 Sajeev Mehta and Steve Lang http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/?p=420809

Ryan writes:

Sajeev and Steve,

I find myself perplexed by a vehicular conundrum. A year ago I purchased my first new car, a 2010 Subaru WRX STI SE. It is a great car. Previously I daily drove a 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser. Another great car. I drive about 20,000 miles a year, mostly on the highway.

My wife and I both work. We contribute heavily to our 401K’s and IRA’s. About a month after I purchased the car my wife decided to go back to school, for an MBA. No problem. She now has a year left. For the year we will be setting aside just shy of $1000 per month to pay for her schooling. This leaves us saving very little over the next year. We have emergency funds to last a few months should the need arise. I want to eliminate debt as soon as possible (currently 2 car loans and a mortgage, nothing more).

My inner cheapskate has become uncomfortable with the nearly $1100 a month operating costs of my beloved STI. My inner car guy misses the Land Cruiser terribly. I’m without a truck. Replacing the STI with another 80 series Land Cruiser or Land Rover Discovery I do not save much money because of the fuel costs.

I am contemplating selling the STI, and picking up a truck and a commuter. The commuter would need to be somewhere around $10,000 or less. Cash for one vehicle, maybe a loan for the other. The ideal commuter would be more comfortable than the STI, get around 30 MPG, have four doors and possibly be all wheel drive (for ski trips). Cadillac CTS? Lexus something? Nothing soulless, please. I can turn a wrench and can maintain both vehicles no problem.

What say you? Do I keep the STI and buy a truck when I can? Sell the STI, buy the truck and commuter? If so, what kind do you suggest?

See the attached spreadsheet. (Ryan’s Car choices)

Steve Answers:

My assumption is that you can cash out the STI. Because if you can’t there is no need to read beyond this sentence.

If saving money and having a fling is your thing, then ask Sajeev. Or get a Lexus IS300 SportCross.

Sajeev Answers:

Don’t ask me about having flings, but I am a damn good tightwad…maybe that’s the problem?

So what does the lady in your life drive?  I hope it’s a Panther, as that would make my job much easier.  But I still might give the same answer: if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.  Odds are your wife’s ride doesn’t suck down money like the gas/insurance/monthly payment of an STI.  Even if it isn’t a “commuter” car.

Definitely sell the STI. You like trucks, so get one. Take it from me, people are actually excited to go for a ride my stupid little 4cyl/5-spd Ford Ranger. I really don’t get it. For some reason being inside a truck with a stick shift is exciting and different to most folk. Which is a sad (but true) statement about our overweight, over-leveraged, conspicuous consumption society. You can both appreciate a cheap little truck’s charm AND enjoy it, considering your love affair with the Land Cruiser. Not to mention you need the money. So be a tightwad like me, at 33MPG highway in my case you won’t regret it. At least not initially.(cough)

You are in Tacoma land, or Ranger land**.  Neither are soulless, as my experiences have shown. Drive them both and see if the Taco is worth the price premium…buy it with cash and get one loan payment out of the way. Worry about the wife’s car later, that is a separate problem.

**If you are upside down on your loan for the STI, you might very well be in $8000 Ford Ranger territory.

Need help with a car buying conundrum? Email your particulars to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com , and let TTAC’s collective wisdom make the decision easier… or possibly much, much harder.

Jon writes:

Hi Sajeev, I own a 2002 Subaru WRX wagon, and live in Tennessee.  Last month, Subaru and the NHTSA issued a recall for certain 02-03 WRXs in northern states.  The recall states that in cold weather, there may be an underhood fuel leak.  Tennessee is not considered a cold-weather state, so my car is not officially part of the recall.  But I’ve noticed that if the temperatures get down to the 20s (not particularly cold, in my book), I can definitely smell raw fuel coming from the engine bay.  I’ve called two dealerships in my area, and neither of them have heard anything about the recall.  I called Subaru directly, and they are insisting that I take my car to a dealer for an inspection.  Naturally, the cost of this inspection will only be refunded if the car is then included in the recall.  I do not at all like this option.  Any ideas on where else to turn?

Sajeev Answers:

Offsetting planned losses via regional recalls makes me sick.  Look, it even snowed in Houston this winter. TWICE. It’s been mighty cold outside, so maybe Subaru should send a letter to “not affected” customers saying they aren’t worth a service tech’s inspection skills?

Because that is the end game: so get the local community involved.  Forget about complaining to Subaru’s customer help line, talk to NHTSA and consumer advocates for advice.  I’d start with those bloodhounds on local TV: this makes for great news. My local CBS affiliate was the first to blow out the Ford Explorer/Firestone problem, so to speak. Point is, this stuff works.

If all else fails, go to the local courthouse and file for arbitration.  That certainly gets Subaru’s attention: legal fees are far more painful than fixing your trivial fuel line. So here’s the cop out from the horses’ mouth:

Recall Number: 09V468000

Dates Manufactured: Sep 2000 to Sep 2002

Number of Vehicles Affected: 5724

Date Owners Notified On: Dec 2009

Defect Description:

SUBARU IS RECALLING CERTAIN MODEL YEAR 2002-2003 IMPREZA WRX VEHICLES ORIGINALLY SOLD IN OR CURRENTLY REGISTERED IN THE STATES OF SOUTH DAKOTA, NEBRASKA, NORTH DAKOTA, MINNESOTA, IDAHO, IOWA, MONTANA, COLORADO, WISCONSIN, NEW YORK, WYOMING, MICHIGAN, ALASKA, NEW HAMPSHIRE, VERMONT, AND MAINE. DURING COLD STARTS, TYPICALLY UNDER EXTREMELY COLD TEMPERATURES, FUEL LEAKS IN THE FUEL DELIVERY LINE COULD OCCUR WHERE THE LINE CONNECTS WITH A RUBBER HOSE.

Consequence of Defect:

FUEL LEAKS, IN THE PRESENCE OF AN IGNITION SOURCE, COULD RESULT IN A FIRE.

Corrective Action:

DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE FUEL LINE FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN DURING DECEMBER 2009. OWNERS MAY CONTACT SUBARU AT 1-800-782-2783.

Notes:

SUBARU RECALL NO. WVK-21. OWNERS MAY ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION’S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.

(Send your queries to mehta@ttac.com)