Carleton writes:

Sajeev,

I have two essentially unrelated questions but both seemingly require something that I greatly lack: money.  I’m a 22 year old engineering student in New Hampshire and have been around cars my whole life.  Over the past few years, I’ve purchased several older motorcycles on craigslist very inexpensively, sorted the mechanical issues, cleaned them up and sold each on for a solid profit ($500 to $1000 profit per bike).  While this has been fun, cars have always been my real passion.  Working on motorcycles has given me the confidence to tackle a project of a larger scale, so I am seeking advice to realize two long awaited desires.  I am currently working and making around $1000 per month and can play with about $200-$300 every month.  Furthermore, I have access to my grandfather’s a large garage with pretty much every tool needed to do any automotive work.

Since I got my license several years ago, I have wanted to purchase a winter beater.  As I mentioned, I can’t spend more than a few hundred dollars and am therefore not picky about the make, model, year, color, etc (however I will note that I am a Honda fanboy).  All that I want is a vehicle that will be capable even during the worst northeast blizzards to save my daily driver from the obscene amounts of salt and sand that the DOT uses to cover our roads.  I don’t mind something requiring some relatively basic maintenance but nothing major.  I would prefer a car that is either very economical OR able to carry a vast amount of large cargo (ie: mopeds and small motorcycles).  I think we’ve all seen the Top Gear Challenge where the blokes buy cars for less than £100 but I can’t seem to find anything in the Boston/Seacoast of NH that is remotely close to this kind of money in fully usable condition.  I’m constantly trolling craigslist, local newspapers and side roads.  Where is the best place to look for solid and very inexpensive beaters and what should I expect in terms of price and condition?  I am fully aware that rust will be an issue where I live.

My second question is perhaps more difficult to answer.  I’ve read most of Mr. Baruth’s Trackday Diaries pieces and would like to get into competitive racing/track time in the near future.  I am a great proponent of training and licensing but don’t currently have the funds to drop g’s on Skip Barber track days.  I am not a “fan” of racing so I don’t know what types of events clubs like SCCA offer or the cost of entrance.  My daily driver is an 2008 Civic Si Sedan with 46k and stock Michelin Pilot HX MXM4 all-season rubber.  I am open to using this car for some track time but I want to do all that I can to prevent catastrophic failures from occurring and minimize my risk.  I know that this car may not be the best for such duties but I can’t see how it could be the worst.  I want to properly learn track etiquette and safety procedures but am not sure what modifications, training and equipment I would need to be successful.  Are the barriers of entry simply too high for a broke college kid or is participation in the racing scene actually possible?  Thanks for any help you may provide.

Sajeev Answers:

Very well written letter!  Sometimes I feel like an English teacher, so giddy when someone writes such a well thought out query! So let’s do this thing.

Your first question is easy to answer: you covered almost all of the bases.  The only thing left is to go on the offensive, via posting want ads. Start on Craigslist with a want ad for a cheap car.  Find any corkboard for community postings in college, grocery stores, churches, community centers, etc and post a similar message.   Beggars can’t be choosers, but they also can’t wait around for the right whip to show up.  Make it happen, and write it just as well as this letter to me.

Question two:  there are weekend driving courses around the country, but I couldn’t google something relevant for you.  Fear not, I’m just an ignorant Texan, I am sure you can find a place where nearby tracks are rented for weekend driving schools, SCCA club events, Import tuner clubs, etc.  The easiest way to get in the action is to join something like the aforementioned SCCA. You know, to get in the network and start autocrossing.

And this is where Jay Lamm, Nick Pon, Judge Phil, Judge Jonny and countless friends I’ve made in the 24 Hours of LeMons proceed to burn me at the stake!  Or put a stupid hat on me and strap me to a Fairmont station wagon. Which is kinda the same thing.

It’s true!!!  My favorite way to go amateur racing is with LeMons.  Eventually.  You start by joining a team, and cutting the requisite check for the (laughing) honor. (/laughing) Then you get access to the car during test and tune track days, general wrenching, and so forth. While I do not recommend door-to-door racing for a complete greenhorn, you’ll get there soon enough. Your team will help you make that decision. Most importantly, this form of racing is so much cheaper than anything else out there.

And you’ll make many friends along the way to help you. Too bad most of ‘em are completely nuts.  But it’s all good so do yourself a solid, join the LeMons Forum and get rolling. Enjoy the insanity.

Mike writes:

Good morning Sajeev.

Ask (for Piston Slap questions) and you shall receive. You are under no obligation to publish this assuming you receive more interesting material.  Thanks for doing what you do.

You may remember me as one of your fellow Lincoln Mark VIII enthusiasts.  The sway bars rock, and for now, I’m still running the OEM HIDs in my 2nd gen, hoping you find an aftermarket solution you deem adequate, and spread the word when the time comes. Although I do now own a pair of Doug’s delrin adapters, just in case.

But this isn’t about that car.  Oh yes, it’s the Panther!

 

I am the proud owner of a 1986 Lincoln Town Car, that I bought in 1997 with about 160k miles on it.  It now has 330,000 miles on it and the Minnesota winters have not been kind.  This has been my do-all vehicle, as well as my winter vehicle, for a number of years now.  It is equipped year round with snow tires. I tow with it, I haul lumber in/on it, it takes me canoeing camping, and bicycling.  Or it did until a couple weeks ago, when I blew a brake line.

That in and of itself would not be a big problem, but here is my concern.  Last winter, all of the fuel lines went.  (send, and return.)  they’ve since been replaced.  Everything underneath the car is a large, indistinguishable ball of rust.  The power steering leaks. Badly.  The transmission is reluctant to engage after coming to a stop sign in cold weather (until things warm up.)  I guess I’m just at the point where I wonder if it is time to let this one go.  The mid ’90s Town Cars can be had for 2-4 thousand on craigslist locally, or if I really want to go crazy, I could get a loan and pick up the W12 Phaeton I’ve been eyeing up..

I am leaning strongly toward dropping it off at the shop and let my mechanic so he can at least take a glance at it. We have an understanding.  If he tells me to “run away!”  I will.  If not, I Assume it will be a couple hundred bucks for a new line from front to back. that’s still better than a couple thousand for a new used car with “unknown” problems.  But in the end, I’m still driving a rusty, ’86 Lincoln.  At least when the next thing breaks, I still have my trusty ’72 Jeep Commando as a backup.

Why yes.  Those *are* 8′ 2x4s in that last photo…

And if you ever find yourself in Minnesota, I’ll buy you a beer.

Sajeev answers:

I do quite enjoy talking to a member of the Lincoln brotherhood, so it’s all good. I still need to make my old-to-modern HID conversion adapters. One day I’ll get them machined and ready to sell.  It’ll never make money–which is depressing–but I probably have no other choice. Because these cars were (almost) the first to have HIDs in the USA (a few 7-series BMWs from 1994-ish did have them) I really want to do the conversion for all of us…but there’s no time right now. Damn these labors of love!

Anyway, about the Panther…the indistinguishable ball of rust, as you so eloquently mentioned.

Cars in this situation are ticking time bombs: at some point it will be painfully obvious that it’s time to move on. I am not entirely sure you have reached it.  But you will.  I suspect a large rust hole in the floor board or a failing DOA gearbox (AOD, get it?) is in your future.  Probably not your near future, but it’s gonna happen.

When will your Town Car die a rusty, crusty death? Whenever it does, I will be watching this video and will pour one out for a fallen automotive soldier.

Click here to view the embedded video.

And I’ll do my best to sing “Ain’t no love in the heart of the city” without offending Mr. Bobby Bland. Because this Panther most certainly did you right, son.

 
Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

TTAC Commentator Cameron Evans writes:

Dear Sajeev,

I am the proud owner of a 1992 F-150, 4×2, regular cab, long box, with power nothing and the Big Six. I love everything about the truck, except for the one concession to my wife, the E4OD gearbox.

Now that the tranny is shot (slip city, followed by violent shifts), I need your advice. The Ford has a lot of new, high quality parts (Michelin’s, o2 sensor, egr valve, coil, water pump, alternator, exhaust, etc), but it’s also rusty as hell from 19 Minnesota winters and the body is beat up from being a municipal truck.

Simple question, drop the cash on a rebuilt tranny or cut my losses?

Thanks in advance!

Sajeev Answers:

Unless the floors are rusting out, I’d keep it. Even then, sheetmetal stock and talented welders are cheap and easy find almost everywhere. A truck is a truck, my friend. There’s a reason why songs are sung, jobs get done, and America is America: the work truck beat to all hell is a symbol of our national pride.

Ok, let’s try to give a technical reason why.  Look at all those new parts!  The exhaust is a big plus. Great choice in tires too.  And if the EEC-IV controlled, 4.9L Big Six was a reasonably attractive woman, I’d marry her on the spot. You know I’m right, son.

Now to the tranny: finding a Ford savvy rebuilder is sometimes a bit tough.  So you’ll have to call around to find one, lest you wind up with an inferior product.  But when you do, and when you drop a decent shift enhancer on it, the E4OD is a great unit. Much like the rest of your parts, spending a good $1000-1500 (not including installation) for a proper rebuild by a proper Ford man is totally worth it.

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com . Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

Matt writes:

Hey Sajeev. Looking for your wisdom, or perhaps that of the B&B. I’ve got a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with about 50k miles. Back around 40k, we had new tires put on it at Sears. Now I want to rotate the tires (yes, I know, I should have done this a while ago), but when I got to the very last wheel, I ran into a roadblock. The rear right wheel is fused to the hub! It seems to be rusted on. Poking around a few forums online, I got a couple of ideas:

• WD-40
• WD-40 and let it sit a while
• Solid whack with a rubber mallet on the driving surface of the tire
• Place some wood over the steel wheel and hit it with a hammer, rotating the wood around the tire so as not to damage the wheel
• Loosen the lug nuts, drive it back and forth a few feet

None of this worked, and now I’m at a loss for what to do next. I tried those things about a month ago, and haven’t taken any further action. I fear that the good people at Sears may not be equipped to properly address the issue and that said lack may not stop them from trying. I don’t have a mechanic I trust* and don’t have a relationship with the Hyundai dealer. In the meantime, the wheels are back to their original locations so that we don’t get any weird wear or tread issues.

Basically, I’d like some advice: is there another home remedy I can try, should I suck it up and pay the dealer, or give the tire store a shot? If the latter, do I mention it when I drop the vehicle off, or let them “discover” it on their own?

Thanks,
Matt

*I had a mechanic I thought I could trust. But after getting charged $400 to replace “stuck” hood hinges which I was later able to loosen up with some PB Blaster, I’ve moved on.

Sajeev answers:

You’ve done your homework, and done the basics. Which makes my job easier and far more entertaining. So remove most of the lug nuts–not all, that’s very important– on the Elantra and get it safely on jack stands, and let’s brainstorm.

Hint #1: Whack the tire tread with a hammer, not a rubber mallet.
Hint #2: No wait, make that a sledge-hammer. The biggest one you can find and safely use, of course.
Hint #3: Lay on your back and kick the tire’s sidewall. A lot. I mean kick the living shit out of that thing, son!
Hint #4: Let the WD-40 dry and get a heating device (i.e. a heat gun) to expand the metal center of the wheel, preferably from the inside and not against the paint (alloy wheels only). Follow up with liberal use of Hint #2.
Hint #5: Drive slowly with all lug nuts SLIGHTLY loose and quickly activate the E-brake.

I’m not especially thrilled to do #5, but then again, it might be better than kicking a tire on a raised vehicle resting on uneven pavement. No matter, this will be a great story to share with your family and friends! Good luck!

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

Ryan writes:

This is Ryan in Chicago again . I am still driving an Acura 2004 TL with about 80k miles, but with winter on the way, I get the itch to switch to a more winter/city car. I used to park in a heated garage at home and work. Now I am relegated to the street parking all the time. Here are my thoughts: – the tl is going to really suffer with all the time in the cold and snow – I am planning on adding a nice sporty car ($40k) to the mix next spring – I always thought a solid cheap AWD vehicle for driving around (and parking) in the city like bronco, wrangler, outback would be great I look forward to your ideas.

Sajeev Answers:

First off, you don’t need AWD in any major city. Okay, a disclaimer:  when I lived in Detroit, there was a flash snowstorm that caught the city with their pants down, so to speak.  But if that happens to you, do yourself a solid and take a snow day: don’t bother going to work. Or anywhere else!  Be drivetrain blind: all you want is a truck-ish beater that’s inherently fun because it’s different than your other ride.  I get it, that’s one reason why Texans use trucks as regular transportation, even the filthy rich roll pickups/SUVs to not look terribly ostentatious on a daily basis.

So make a budget and find the most interesting SUV that’ll fit the bill.  It’s okay to have fun, but be realistic: the best cheap beaters are 15-ish year old Explorers, Blazers, Pathfinders and other mainstream SUVs (i.e. no Isuzus, KIAs, Subies, etc) that don’t command the insane asking prices of the Toyota 4Runner. I’d go for screwball obscurity, with mainstream value: an Oldsmobile Bravada or Mercury Mountaineer.

Steve Answers:

Where do we get these questions?  (From my Inbox – SM) Ryan, this is no longer the 1970′s.

The rusted out car has gone the way of vinyl roofs and ‘cassette’ premium sound systems. Today’s cars can easily withstand the worst of what the cold and salt can whip up. As for Chicago destroying your beloved TL… even my brother’s 1984 rust-prone Supra lasted for 13 years out there. Your vehicle will easily last well past the point of your interest in the vehicle.

The issue you have isn’t rust. It’s trust. As in, how can any sane soul make it through all those crappy winters? What you need to do is get out of Chicago. It sucks out there in the dead of winter. Even worse than New Jersey on a good day. Go find a cheap flight to somewhere that offers good beer and great waves. Learn how to surf. Find a babe that digs your overspending prowess, and spring for a set of good winter tires.

Need help with a car buying conundrum? Email your particulars to mehta@ttac.com, and let TTAC’s collective wisdom make the decision easier… or possibly much, much harder.

Karl writes:

Sajeev, I am not sure if this has been covered before, but I am writing about washing cars in winter. I finally have a car that is new enough and nice to worry about keeping the body in good shape for a long time. It will not be driven that regularly, so I expect to keep it for a decade–I tend to keep my cars a long time. I remember reading long ago (okay, long, long ago) about not washing vehicles in freezing weather. Well, I live in Wisconsin, so that is a third of the year. I want my new purchase to last, so what should I do to preserve the paint and the body?

Sajeev answers:

I’ve spent most of my life in the Texas Gulf Coast, so I shouldn’t answer this question.  But with the (thankless) hours spent as an automotive forum moderator, I shall.  There’s always a thread on preserving sheetmetal in the Rust Belt: I’ll share what I’ve heard from intelligent forum contributors.

I recommend washing a car in the winter, especially if it’s done weekly and using a proper underbody wash to keep road salt off your ride. I’d also polish the car with a polymer-based wax to protect the paint the entire season. Then grab some mudflaps and get ready for the big chill.

Most importantly, don’t let the car thaw in a heated garage every day.  The logic says that a car with salty ice in every orifice protects itself better than one that turns into salt water every evening, permeating into every poorly protected sheetmetal crease.  I’ve heard (keyword: heard) of cars that live completely rust free with a strict regiment of living outside during winter, with a heavy coat of “water” from the owner so it can completely seal the drainage gutters and door seams as it freezes.

Makes sense: I’d soak every non-moving part in water and let Mother Nature protect my ride from the government’s evil, evil salt fixation. Which is definitely easier on the environment than the toxic chemicals in automotive undercoating. And that’s far cheaper too.

(Send your queries to mehta@ttac.com)

Ben writes:

Hello Sajeev, my father owns a 2005 Ford Focus wagon. The car has 100,000 km’s on it (Canadian) and it has been well maintained. The car has never given him any issues and runs very well but the paint is in horrible condition. He purchased the vehicle after the lease was up and soon after the paint started peeling. He didn’t think too much of it, but recently it has gotten much worse… Ford did not apply primer on the car.

A couple of weeks ago we took the car into the dealership where he bought it. The salesmen there were absolutely shocked that a 4 year old vehicle could be peeling so badly and they said that if we contacted Ford that they would stand by us. My father contacted Ford of Canada and they said that they would arrange for a Ford representative to view the car. They took two weeks to call back and they basically said that it is his problem and they refused to do anything about it. My father has always been a Ford supporter; he has had 3 foci and 5 other Fords before them. He also has a 2006 Focus sedan which has perfect paint, but he is seriously reconsidering purchasing another Ford product.

I am just wondering what the next step should be. The paint is chipping off revealing steel, which is causing rust to form and spread. You can see in the pictures that around the inside of the doors are starting to rust. He has been quoted at $3000 to repaint the vehicle. I really think that Ford should take some responsibility. I am just curious what you think he should do at this point. I really enjoy piston slap on TTAC and would appreciate any advice.

Sajeev answers:

Wait, isn’t Ford’s corrosion warranty still in effect?  Ford of Canada’s website says you’re covered for 5 years and unlimited mileage.  Even if the time period has passed, I’d consider legal action. Go to the local courthouse and file for arbitration. That’ll get the right people involved in Dearborn, and they might get a little scared too.

Back to the car: I’ve never seen a somewhat recent factory paint job peel that badly. I mean…damn, that’s some seriously bad luck.   Since any vehicle with the word “wagon” in its name is pretty cool, I’d get it repainted even if Ford tells you to go pound sand.  If the car will be around for the next 5-10 years, avoid the cheaper places (like MAACO in the USA) and spend a little more for quality labor and decent paint products.

That said, $3000 CDN is a little high.  If you got that quote from the dealership’s body shop, find an independent shop with good references.  The price will be significantly less, and the quality might be better.  Body shops at dealers are a hit or miss affair, and I’ve seen far more misses than hits. Which is another reason why dealerships deserve their (collectively) negative reputations.

(Send your queries to mehta@ttac.com)