I have always been in the quest for more power, so that is where my modding dollars have gone. My previous Prelude had a cold air intake, stainless header and muffler that all woke that car up nicely.

My current TSX has the best bang for your buck mod for the car: Hondata Reflash. Stock, the VTEC cam engaged at 6K rpm and you were bouncing off the rev limiter at 7.1K rpm. Post reflash, the VTEC cam comes on smoothly at 5K rpm and runs all the way up to 7.5K rpm and feel much stronger in the process.

I wish had the scratch to do a header, exhaust, coilovers, and wheels and tires, but, then again, if I put the $6K into the car to do that, why not just get a better car? CPO 325 or 330, anyone?

SEMA = Specialty Equipment Manufacturers Association

Well as you might surmise from my handle, I have an (06) Velocity Red Mazda 3i. Aside from the 17′ aftermarket wheels & my Pioneer D3, my add on parts have (& will) come straight from the factory in Hiroshima. There is a striving e-bay trade for mazda parts this way. No warranties, but all OEM so you know it fits/works/won’t start fires.

I got factory fogs & LED’s (real LED’s) in my center brake light. Next will be LED tail lights (think 350z) & then to change my standard manual shift lever to the 2″ quick shifter. Again these are real mazda parts straight from the factory in Japan.

One good thing about this car, is that all of the wiring harnesses/sensors are there. (even the one for the sunroof & the rain sensor, speed wipers etc… ) One just has to get the various switches/& or control modules.

ZOOM-ZOOM :)

The point has been to keep them reliable and versatile. Any engine work or lowering would likely reduce their utility for our needs.

I have seriously considered lowering the Cabrio about an inch or two and adding 16″ wheels, tinted windows, etc. At 155K miles this is not going to take a toll on it’s resale value or anything. Might still. I rteally don’t like to work on my daily drivers though. Always up against a deadline so I can get to work. This week we are carpooling b/c the Cabrio is down for a few easy repairs – easy if I could reach the bolts. Bought crow’s foot wrenches last night. Fingers crossed.

In the garage though I have two warmed over VWs.

The first is a ‘78 VW Westfalia with a Corvair 110HP 2.7L six and Corvair 3.55 R&P 4 speed gearbox. Most everything else is stock but all of the 70’s colors have been changed from browns to a Tornado red/white exterior and to undecided colors inside. Added sound proofing, dual exhaust, 15″ Merc wheels, swaybars front and rear, H4 headlamps, Hella 500 lights, etc etc. Goal is a sleeper Westfalia with hidden upgrades.

Also have a ‘65 Beetle that is only about 60% ‘65 Beetle anymore. It’s currently a basketcase but I have put ~5K miles on it to test everything. Now it is time to tear it down for paint, rubber and chrome. ‘65 Beetle body, ‘57 ragtop sunroof, ~’50ish oval rear window to graft in, ‘69 balljoint/IRS chassis, dropped spindles up front, all wheel disc brakes, aluminum running boards, 3.88 R&P gearbox from a Super Beetle, ‘78 VW Type IV engine with flat top pistons, warmed over cam, warmed over heads, dual exhaust hidden under the body, swaybars, 911 style cooling, dual Dellorto carbs (tuned for economy = 25mpg+), air conditioning to R&R, ~1990 VW Golf front seats, Porsche Cookie Cutter 15″ wheels, etc etc etc

Again the car will mostly be a sleeper. Exhaust appears mostly stock (larger bore pipes exiting stock locations), wheels will be painted a normal OEM grey silver for all weather use, car sits flat and only slightly lower, stock trim and bumpers. To the amateur viewer it looks like a well kept Beetle with wheels and to the purist it looks like the “Heinz-57 Edition” that it really is (larger 60s side windows with a oval rear window and ragtop sunroof, wrong suspension).

In both cases the VWs are examples of what I thought the factory should have delivered. Something that can keep up with normal traffic but not drag racers.

I think of the old VWs as a poorman’s hobby car. The Corvairs too.

My 1996 Impala SS (with carpet still under plastic and only 40K miles) was worth a lot more because I had kept the original intake and exhaust and sold it with the car. One afternoon’s work and it was just like it left the factory.

I’m doing the same for my 2006 TBSS – tuning and mild mods (all unseen, of course), but I keep every original part. And don’t drive it much. It might not hold the value like the Impala, but then again…you never know. I never thought I’d make money on the Impala, either.

But my other cars that they made a million of and no one cares about? I’ll change them anyway I see fit, and never think twice.

All of them.

Even the leased ones…though I made sure the mods were reversible…

Let’s not forget Altezza lights – critical for your dragstrip opponent to look at as you cross the finish line at a trap speed of 75 mph.

I didn’t think there was much sense with previous vehicles as there was really nothing special about them. This one is special and warrants a bit more attention.

The only “mod” I’ve done so far on my ‘05 OBXT is a set of upgraded sway bars to tame the nasty understeer and body roll. Unfortunately the soft springs still wallow and squat under accel and braking, but there’s few aftermarket improvements available that aren’t maintenance intensive. Ideally I’d like a cat-back exhaust system (Borla) to let the turbo’d engine breathe easier, but that’s getting spendy.

Snow tires, however, have been the best investment to date. I recommend them for any car who sees snow.

I don’t want to have lawn ornament like my step brother. He riced his civic out with a B20 bomber engine swap that has so many electical problems, he has to keep it attached to a trickle charger, or it won’t start in the morning.

In case wondering what a B20 bomber is, it’s the block from a first gen CRV mated to an Integra GSR Vtech head.

Mod list so far:
COBB AccessPort flashed to Stage 1
Whiteline rear differential carrier bolts
Whiteline swaybars
Whiteline front/rear strut tower braces
Whiteline h-brace
Rally Armor mudflaps
Borla Hush catback
Painted OEM wheels
Intercooler pebble screen
Rally Pig sticker
Fire extinguisher (required for RallyX)

Soon to come:
Aftermarket downpipe and flash to Stage 2
Stainless brake lines
Better brake pads

Under the hood, 1.6:1 full roller rockers add a little extra bump to the cam, along with a Dynomax cat-back, homemade cold air kit, and a reprogrammed PCM that bumps power, fuel economy and improves transmission shifts. Also installed a cooler thermostat and bypassed the throttle body coolant passage, since the car is never winter driven.

None of the modifications have hurt resale value, as I can simply remove them if I need to and return to stock. They all improve drivability, throttle response, and most importantly sound. The factory 94-96 B-Body has an ultra-restrictive induction system with two silencers and baffles to quiet the smallblock–they also choke power. Some modifications speak for themselves.

Yeah, I wish I had bought an EVO MR. It wasn’t available when I purchased the WRX; but the EVO 9 GSRs were.

Which leads me to another point: that piece of crap Subaru taught me a very important life lesson. If you can safely afford it, get what you want, and don’t be cheap. I thought I was be prudent in my purchase, and now I cannot stand the sight of my car. The only thing saving that car from being kicked to the curb is that I want a specific car, which requires saving some dough.

I modded my Civic (oh how I miss her) and came VERY close to doing the same thing with my Hyundia…that is until I figured how stupid the idea was. Well, that and my non-working status at the time diverted money elsewhere.

what i’d like to do though is get an old car and refurbish it while installing the latest technology. such as engine, braeks, suspension etc… however the interior/exterior would remain completely stock, with a pinch more safety…

-Korman big brake kit(290mm Brakes) and all related hardware(i.e. lines, brake ducts,calipers,pads etc.)
-Korman Tracksport Suspension(Amazing handling, shit ride quality, but who cares)
-4.10:1 Gearing conversion and a Upgraded LSD with 75% lockup.
-Sachs Clutch
-Korman Engine Chip(good for 15hp)
-225/50r15 Yokohama A048(Track) or P205/55R15 S.Drive(Street) on 15×7 E30 Cross-Spoke wheels
-oh and a VDO Gauge Cluster(Oil P.,Oil T.,Volt)

The rest of the car is Bone Stock(It retains it’s Factory 1987 “premium” Hi-Def Tape deck and speakers).

By the time I spend enough to get my STi to 9 second 1/4 mile, I could have bought a busa (WITH WARRANY) for way less (assuming the wife wouldn’t divorce me — which she will!)….

No reason to spend money to make the car faster or handle better when I only drive it in the winter.

Motorcycle = summer
Car = winter

- full TXS turboback exhaust
- aftermarket up-pipe
- Prodrive catback
- modded injectors
- Walbro 255 fuel pump
- STI intercooler
- GM boost control solenoid
- custom ecu tune
- Kartboy shifter bushings

I only modify for straight-line speed because I don’t race the car on the track and exceeding lateral grip on the street is pretty dangerous.

My car is perfectly reliable with no problems. And it’s my daily driver.

When I meet other evo owners at meets, that’s what I typically hear. Why did you buy a X MR?

Why not the GSR? The MR’s transmission can’t take as much power as the GSR’s manual.

Why not the 9? The 9 is a faster car.

While I’m admittedly not ready for a buick, I’m also not willing to deal with the NVH that the evo 9 has. As for the DSG vs the manual, I LOVE DSG’s.

Anyway, that comment you have about, unrefined, buzzy, still pretty loud. That’s exactly it, the MR is IMHO, refined enough, not buzzy, and pretty quiet. Quiet enough that I WANT to make it louder sometimes.

The radio/CD is still stock — no use changing it when it can’t be heard most of the time.

I love it to death, but it’s an admittedly acquired taste. I’m 36, and not yet ready for a Buick.

My previous car was an Infiniti G20 that me and a buddy built a custom turbo setup. Very fun, but also a textbook example of the diminishing returns involved when adding power to FWD cars.