Geek alert!  This one is tech-heavy!

TTAC Commentator Skor writes:

Sajeev,

Not a question, but it’s good to know that as long as there are cars there are people who will come up with hacks, no matter how complicated things get.

I have an 1992 Cadillac Seville and the blower motor fan disintegrated and jammed up the blower motor, which in turn shorted out the blower resistor. The squirrel cage disintegrated. I checked inside the blower housing to see if there was anything loose, but I could find nothing except pieces of the fan. All of this stuff was OE, no one has been in there since the car came from the factory. I’m sure someone at GM thought that saving a nickel on plastic was a good idea. Well, I bought a new motor/fan assembly and installed it. Wasn’t too bad, about $40. When I tried it, it was a no-go. Next thing I do is check the fuse (30 amp) it was fine. Then I checked the blower motor controller. It was blown. Crap! Apparently when the fan blew up, it jammed the motor, which then took out the motor controller. I’m thinking to myself:

“Nice engineering. The components on this circuit blow before the fuse does. WTF is the fuse for?”

So I call the Caddy stealer and he tells me $225 for the control module. Crap! I Check Autozone and they want $180. Crap! So I get my Google-Fu on and I end up at a Caddy enthusiast forum. A dude on the Caddy forum is an electrical engineer and he was so pissed when the same thing happened to his Caddy that he came up with this circuit that you can build from cheap discrete components.

I got my google-fu on and found a dude who hacked a new circuit together for about $10. I bought the parts but haven’t soldered the thing together yet. The link appears to be dead, and I can’t find the original thread anywhere. Fortunately, I took pictures of this hack, and still have them on my hard drive. You are welcome to use them. Please note: I DID NOT DESIGN THIS CIRCUIT. I took a course in basic electronics when I was in high school. If you give me a schematic, and parts list, I can build it, but I can’t design it. This circuit was designed by an electrical engineer, and I don’t know his name.

The connector block on the controller has 6 pins, but only 4 are used. There are only 4 wires on the harness plug.

Battery———————–NC————————Motor+

NC————————–Ground———————Input(control signal)

The battery and No-Connect on the left are spaced far from the other connections you have no problem telling left from right.

• The FET source is connected to the battery through a 30 amp fuse….it’s always hot, even with the key off.
  The FET drain goes straight to the blower motor.
  The TIP3055 base is connected to the control signal coming from the climate control computer. I don’t know what this signal looks like since I don’t have a scope. I put the VOM on it and when the climate control is switched on it can vary from .5V to 8+V.
  TIP3055 emitter goes straight to chassis ground.

The cases of the semiconductors I used are TO-247. Normally I would mount stuff like this on mica (the transistor and FET’s net to be electrically insulated from the sink) with heat sink grease, but radio shack only sells mica for TO-220….too small. I ordered sil-pad from Digi-Key. The sil-pad cost $.24 a piece…..if you use sil-pad, you don’t need heat sink grease. The resistors are ½ watt, 5%, carbon film. After I soldered it together, I coated the bare solder connections with JB weld.

This is what the motor controller looked like when I pulled it out of the car.

I cut the original circuit board off the heat sink; one of those “thick film” things which is great for mass production but can’t be repaired…it would be like tying to unbake a cake. I bolted the discrete bits to the original sink and soldered it all together. Does it work? You betcha ya. I ran it for a half hour outside the blower housing. The transistor stays cool, the 3 FETs get a bit warm but nothing that could be described as hot. This is what the DIY version looks like.

When there is the will, there is a way.

Sajeev answers:

As the owner of several unloved Detroit techno-wonders from the 1980s, I have one thing to say about your last remark:  So true.

Wait a second! I remember your amazing advice to me about my Fleetwood 75 Limo:  you also know your TPS reports!

Look, most components are not that unique, anyone with basic knowledge of circuit boards and possession of factory wiring diagrams can fix just about any electronic bit on a car from the 1970s-1990s.  I remember reading a C/D road test of a loaded out Fox body Ford LTD where the author remarked how difficult it will be to keep the electronics working decades from now. Whatever!  I’ve learned how to fix many a Fox Ford electronic dashboard component, and I don’t even own a soldering gun!

The newer stuff is admittedly much harder, but that will change over time.  I suspect someone within the B&B is already quite savvy with i-Drive interface rebuilding, or similar.

Once again: when there is a will, there is way.  Hats off to you, my good man! The 1992 Seville was/is a wonderful design, and far easier to keep alive without that head bolt munching Northstar motor. You got one of my favorite GM products of the era, and that’s a compliment. So let’s show off your handiwork once more.

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

Carleton writes:

Sajeev,

I have two essentially unrelated questions but both seemingly require something that I greatly lack: money.  I’m a 22 year old engineering student in New Hampshire and have been around cars my whole life.  Over the past few years, I’ve purchased several older motorcycles on craigslist very inexpensively, sorted the mechanical issues, cleaned them up and sold each on for a solid profit ($500 to $1000 profit per bike).  While this has been fun, cars have always been my real passion.  Working on motorcycles has given me the confidence to tackle a project of a larger scale, so I am seeking advice to realize two long awaited desires.  I am currently working and making around $1000 per month and can play with about $200-$300 every month.  Furthermore, I have access to my grandfather’s a large garage with pretty much every tool needed to do any automotive work.

Since I got my license several years ago, I have wanted to purchase a winter beater.  As I mentioned, I can’t spend more than a few hundred dollars and am therefore not picky about the make, model, year, color, etc (however I will note that I am a Honda fanboy).  All that I want is a vehicle that will be capable even during the worst northeast blizzards to save my daily driver from the obscene amounts of salt and sand that the DOT uses to cover our roads.  I don’t mind something requiring some relatively basic maintenance but nothing major.  I would prefer a car that is either very economical OR able to carry a vast amount of large cargo (ie: mopeds and small motorcycles).  I think we’ve all seen the Top Gear Challenge where the blokes buy cars for less than £100 but I can’t seem to find anything in the Boston/Seacoast of NH that is remotely close to this kind of money in fully usable condition.  I’m constantly trolling craigslist, local newspapers and side roads.  Where is the best place to look for solid and very inexpensive beaters and what should I expect in terms of price and condition?  I am fully aware that rust will be an issue where I live.

My second question is perhaps more difficult to answer.  I’ve read most of Mr. Baruth’s Trackday Diaries pieces and would like to get into competitive racing/track time in the near future.  I am a great proponent of training and licensing but don’t currently have the funds to drop g’s on Skip Barber track days.  I am not a “fan” of racing so I don’t know what types of events clubs like SCCA offer or the cost of entrance.  My daily driver is an 2008 Civic Si Sedan with 46k and stock Michelin Pilot HX MXM4 all-season rubber.  I am open to using this car for some track time but I want to do all that I can to prevent catastrophic failures from occurring and minimize my risk.  I know that this car may not be the best for such duties but I can’t see how it could be the worst.  I want to properly learn track etiquette and safety procedures but am not sure what modifications, training and equipment I would need to be successful.  Are the barriers of entry simply too high for a broke college kid or is participation in the racing scene actually possible?  Thanks for any help you may provide.

Sajeev Answers:

Very well written letter!  Sometimes I feel like an English teacher, so giddy when someone writes such a well thought out query! So let’s do this thing.

Your first question is easy to answer: you covered almost all of the bases.  The only thing left is to go on the offensive, via posting want ads. Start on Craigslist with a want ad for a cheap car.  Find any corkboard for community postings in college, grocery stores, churches, community centers, etc and post a similar message.   Beggars can’t be choosers, but they also can’t wait around for the right whip to show up.  Make it happen, and write it just as well as this letter to me.

Question two:  there are weekend driving courses around the country, but I couldn’t google something relevant for you.  Fear not, I’m just an ignorant Texan, I am sure you can find a place where nearby tracks are rented for weekend driving schools, SCCA club events, Import tuner clubs, etc.  The easiest way to get in the action is to join something like the aforementioned SCCA. You know, to get in the network and start autocrossing.

And this is where Jay Lamm, Nick Pon, Judge Phil, Judge Jonny and countless friends I’ve made in the 24 Hours of LeMons proceed to burn me at the stake!  Or put a stupid hat on me and strap me to a Fairmont station wagon. Which is kinda the same thing.

It’s true!!!  My favorite way to go amateur racing is with LeMons.  Eventually.  You start by joining a team, and cutting the requisite check for the (laughing) honor. (/laughing) Then you get access to the car during test and tune track days, general wrenching, and so forth. While I do not recommend door-to-door racing for a complete greenhorn, you’ll get there soon enough. Your team will help you make that decision. Most importantly, this form of racing is so much cheaper than anything else out there.

And you’ll make many friends along the way to help you. Too bad most of ‘em are completely nuts.  But it’s all good so do yourself a solid, join the LeMons Forum and get rolling. Enjoy the insanity.

James

Hi Sajeev,

I’m a university student completing their honours degree in screen production. My project for this year is making a short drama/comedy about a young man and his car (surprise, surprise!), so I’m looking for old, tidy cars with character.

My search has come down to a yellow 1983 Volvo 244 GL 3sp auto, offered to me for $500AUD with no registration – the pictures I’ve been given shows a very straight, tidy old brick, but it could respond well to a good polish. The bad? The car has been sitting around for at least a few months (could even be closer to a year…), which causes worries. I’m told it drove quite well before it was put away and the owners in question are quite mechanically minded and love their bricks, so I’m lead to believe it will be a good car. However, if I buy this car and it doesn’t work, suddenly I’m out of money and I don’t have a car for my film. So is there anything I should be wary of and check to ensure clean health? Any brick nuts want to chime either?

For you brick nuts, it’s an ’83 244 GL with the B23 and the 3 speed automatic. It’s done 280,000 kilometres/170k miles. I’m from Australia so I’m sure someone will school me on how we got the better bricks and USDM got shafted or something along those lines!

Speedy response would be lovely before I loose my money!

Sajeev answers:

Take it from a single guy who spends a fair bit of time networking: be it for cars or people, “character” is an, um, interesting term. Try telling your average business networking professional that your daily driver is a Ford Ranger. Or a Lincoln Mark VIII. It’s quite an eye opener, and the right car will set the tone for a conversation. Or a movie.

All old cars have tons of it, and perhaps your short film will be adult rated because of the sheer volume of profanity involved when said vehicle’s character leaves the protagonist stranded, waiting for parts or trapped in a diagnostic nightmare.  Trapped, I tell you! In this case, depending on the quality of a vehicle’s service history, this might be quite a short film!

Buying a non-runner is a terrible idea for a man in your shoes.

I’d strongly suggest finding a runner that you can test drive and judge on its flaws and benefits.  Service history is crucial.  I’d also recommend buying an indigenous vehicle so people around the world can get a better window into car culture in Australia. Not necessarily like MAD MAX, but some sort of Australian angle would help.

I’d go with a Holden, any of them. Or a Chrysler with a slant-6 motor. Ya know, the Ford’s already been done.

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

Clint writes:

It seems odd to me that some old Japanese cars are becoming collectible. Some cars are understandable like Toyota 2000gt, 240z, RX3, etc. It seems that rarity plays a huge role in what people consider collectible. A good example is a Toyota Cressida Wagon. Its not a sports car, its not attractive but it some how has some pizazz. I do not foresee many American Classics from the mid 70′s becoming collectible. There will be a few but it seems like people love Datsun, Toyota and Mazda’s from that era. Even low mile Subaru’s are become collectible. Has the world gone mad?

Sajeev answers:

Heavens no, the world is just right!  Many people are programmed to collect, either by sheer desire or chemical imbalance. Everything is collectible, if presented in a historically relevant condition.

This is the way its been, and the way it should be!  Austin 7s, Hudson Hornets, Nash Metropolitans, Lincoln Zephyrs (the original), BMW Isettas, SAAB Sonnetts, Datsun 510s…hell, according to the Internet, even the Hindustan Contessa turned into a cult classic Muscle Car in my mother land! If you think a Toyota Cressida Wagon has pizazz but “is not attractive”, you need some Vellum Venom. Most, if not all, Cressidas are clean, well proportioned (for their eras, esp. compared to other Toyotas in the lineup) and are well crafted designs that stand the test of time.  And with modifications, they look more than a little eye-catching. It’s a classic design that deserves more than a little credit.

People can and should pay good money for well-preserved old Japanese iron. That is how the collector car biz works.

More to the point, the problem is with you, my friend. When you say, “I do not foresee many American Classics from the mid 70′s becoming collectible. There will be a few but it seems like people love Datsun, Toyota and Mazda’s from that era” I counter with:

The Ford Gran Torino. It was a fantastic sales success, and super clean examples fetch decent money for younger collectors interested in re-visiting their past.  The same is true for any other American iron from that era that disco-dancin’ children fell in love with. More to the point, this particular model inspired the likes of Robert Bechtle (thanks Murilee!) and starred in one of the best TV shows that I was too young to see outside of syndication. So awesome, in fact, the car was the star for the recent (and horrible) movie remake of this amazing show.

The car was the only good part of that movie. And when they jumped/crashed them, I cursed the producers for wasting perfectly good Disco Street Muscle when they coulda given it to me! I mean, come on son!

Big Bumper’d disco iron is absolutely fuckin’ awesome! You can find many, many more proper cuts of disco Iron on flickr.com. So shut up and do it. Right now.  ALL OF YOU.

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

TTAC commentator Kenzter writes:

Sajeev,

I recently picked up a 1969 Cadillac Sedan Deville. It was one of those once-in-a-lifetime deals you only hear about, like my uncles cousins sister is selling her deceased husbands garage queen for pennies on the dollar deal.

My problem is, the Automatic Climate Control (a $550 option!) does not work. The only settings that trigger any response are FOG and ICE. Even then, I can only hear the blower motor and just barely feel air from the floor vents. Where to begin the troubleshooting?

Thanks,
Kenzter

Sajeev answers:

Damn son, that sounds like a choice cut of Cadillac. I love Caddy’s “fuselage era” not just because I bleed Panther Love, or started watching Mad Men from the beginning on DVD last week…but that never hurts!

First off, you told me absolutely nothing about the car’s condition.  Odds are older vehicles have worn out HVAC systems because of use or neglect.  I hope you understand the headaches associated with old car ownership: when I removed/replaced the evaporator/heater core/blower motor from my 1988 Mercury Cougar XR-7 with nearly 200,000 miles on the clock, I was horrified at the state of everything! But cleaning and replacing worked so well: even with a conversion to less-efficient R134a, the Cougar now has the strongest A/C in the Mehta fleet.  It will freeze the balls off a polar bear on the low-speed setting!

Even low mile garage queens have HVAC problems, because getting old is a bitch no matter who or what you are.

That said, my gut says you have bad vacuum lines under the hood. Especially the one from the vacuum source to the firewall, to (eventually) the HVAC box behind the dashboard.  But that’s for starters: I am so confident because you said the only “response” was from the defogger setting. Most, if not all, HVAC systems will default to the top setting when vacuum lines fail: this is a safety feature to keep your windshield from fogging up in interior/exterior climate changes. Well, in theory.

But what else do you do? You probably need a new blower motor, at this age. And maybe the factory service manuals (that you need to own) will help you dig deeper and find more problems.  Also get Cadillac specific parts catalogs from various vendors, just so you know what the world has to offer in terms of new parts.  Every catalog I get in the mail is like a mini-Christmas present…even if I may buy elsewhere, especially via eBay.

When you have the proper books, get the proper tools. Maybe join a local Cadillac-LaSalle club. Start reading up, learning and slowly tackle the project in your spare time.  Eventually you will fix the whole system. And enjoy the ride, because everything can and will eventually fail on an antique car. That’s part of the fun.

Welcome to the sickness, I am happy you joined us!

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

Curt writes:

Sajeev,

I’m looking for some Saab selling advice.  A couple of years ago I convinced my girlfriend that she would love the functionality and performance of a 2002 Saab 9-5 turbo wagon (5-spd)… perhaps in some small part because I wanted one myself.  As she fell in love with the Saab I grew to hate its constant need for attention and respect its ability to find new and creative ways to fail.

Now that I convinced her to upgrade to a 2009 Jetta TDI wagon, I have to figure out how to unload the Saab.  The problem is, aside from some typical small problems, this car has an emissions leak (causing a check engine light) and needs a Direct ignition Cassette, (currently preventing full boost mode).  I’ve devoted a lot of weekends to this car so most of the gadgets work and it looks great, but I figure no one will touch it with the current problems… Because I wouldn’t.

My question: is it worth the money to invest another $200 – $300 for the DI cassette, which *should* solve the lack of boost?  And how much should I be asking/expecting on the open market?  It now has 120K miles and will be sold with the evap leak because fixing requires dropping the fuel tank and that aint gonna happen.  To make things slightly worse, we live in a town that requires emissions compliance before allowing vehicle registration, so the new owner has that to look forward to.

Oh yeah, the sooner you can weigh in on this, the better, as the new (used) Jetta is already in our garage and the Saab needs to be gone ASAP.

Thanks,
Curt

Sajeev answers:

As a Lincoln-Mercury fanboi with no brand-honest prospects in the (near?) future, it pains me to see a turbo, stick, SAAB wagon in search of a new owner. But you couldn’t pay me to own it, either. You need money, plenty of time on the forums, or a very worthwhile SAAB independent mechanic to make that beastie worth owning. Tragic.

So should you spend the money to fix that check engine light, so it will pass emissions?  Yes, unless the cost spirals out of control.  Your $300 budget sounds totally worth it, except you have no interest in fixing that leaking evap emissions thing. Therefore the light will stay on, emissions won’t be passed, value plummets. So let’s run some numbers.

Taking a wild guess at your 9-5′s options and overall condition via Edmund’s appraisal tool, I’d say you’d be lucky to get more than $4500 on a private party sale, and good luck getting over $3000 on trade-in/wholesale.  This is assuming you clear all engine codes and the rest of the SAAB is good for an inspection. And assuming you remain a resident of a fly-over state, not one of those SAAB friendly places on the coast.

The SAAB’s transaction price if you don’t clear the codes?  I donno…and maybe who cares?  At what point does a loss of 500-2000 dollars really hurt you?  Is time more valuable than money?  Are you on the fast track to a promotion, bonus, etc?  I’d recommend going to a few dealers and seeing their cash offers.  If you leave infuriated, well, maybe you should fix that heap so it will pass the emissions test for the next owner.  If you kinda shrug it off, just dump it on craigslist for a little more than the dealer’s offer…fingers crossed on that.

Perhaps you should make a friend in California? Or Oregon? Massachusetts? You see my point.

Oh and by the way, I’d sincerely recommend an extended warranty for that Jetta. But you probably already knew that.

Jonathon writes:

Hi Sajeev,

Long time reader, not a commenter though. I have simple situation, and a simple question. Last Friday my beloved, and owned from birth, 1995 Grand Prix GTP developed a head gasket leak. This is something I can, with father-in law help, tackle in the summer. However living in Northern Ontario, a driveway repair is just not an option right now. It’s time for a new ride.

Since all those years ago I did not give my wife (g.f. at the time) any option into the purchase, this time around it will be something we both are in love with. Sadly that leaves a V6 Mustang or the 2013 Genesis 3.8 out. Also we lost our niece at the beginning of the year in a highway car accident that killed three other teenagers (the quality of highway maintenance is now privatized and sub-par). Anyways, that has my wife eying a 4×4\awd even more then ever.

Top on her list is a 2012 Wrangler Sahara Unlimited (bare bones except auto & A\C). The mileage for this is 16\20. Our car, new, apparently was 16\24. From our sleepy little city to Toronto is ~360km. At the current 1.28\l, it would mean another $14 there and back for one of our escapes to the big city. So the question I have is, when the EPA tested the wrangler did they do it in 4wd, so that we could expect to see better mileage, or 2wd, and that is what we should expect?

Regards,

Jonathan

ps…anyone have any suggestions for a driveway mechanic preparing to replace a headgasket on a 1995 Pontiac 3.4 with DOHC?

Sajeev answers:

Oh yes, I certainly do have some suggestions!

My first preparation? Take one of the larger wrenches in your tool box and use it to crack every finger on your hands…as this is what most GM service techs experienced when they had to work on the cool, yet terribly designed “Twin Dual Cam” motors when they were new. If you don’t have the proper GM service manuals, better get them on eBay now…and start drinking, too.  Only then can you be ready for what nightmares lie ahead!

That said, I truly admire you for keeping a GM-10 on the road.  While I didn’t appreciate them initially, they have aged well. Kudos to you, sir!

About your new vehicle concern: the EPA does indeed test 4WD vehicles in 2WD. So you can’t expect any better mileage, that’s the best the drivetrain shall give. But you are actually concerned about safety after a fatal accident of a loved one, the Wrangler is last on my list.  Compared to a normal CUV and maybe most SUVs, the off-road ready Wrangler is less confident in emergency maneuvers, and that cramped footwell might mess up your foot.  Get a car-based CUV instead, unless you must have the coolness only available in the Wrangler.

Not to mention that most (all?) CUVs in the Wrangler’s price range get better fuel economy too. Because, after all, you can’t have your cake and eat it too.

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

TTAC Commentator tresmonos writes:

Sajeev,

I recently wrote you about my dilemma of my dying cavalier and should I purchase a ST Focus when they come out. My question is: how easy is it to convert a v belt to a standard ‘grooved’ serpentine belt? My ’84 Diesel Fox body has mostly sat since I’ve started my new job, but back when I had time and excellent southern weather to work on it, I had rebuilt the alternator, rewired the main line from the alternator to the battery (removed the high voltage line from the main loom) and was messing around with different pullies to see if I could solve the age old dilemma that plagues these diesels: thrown v belts.

The v belt drives the alternator and the water pump. Diesel Fox’s are rare as those v belts get tossed, octogenarians would limp their beloved Lincoln home, then crack their Ford meth inspired, paper thin, specific head to a BMW M21. Sad grandma and grandpa.

Rather than keeping 3 spare belts, a socket set, and my balls in the trunk of the car at all times, I’d rather be lazy about it. The rebuild didn’t seem to help. The rewire addressed my laziness of not disconnecting the battery: blown fuse links from arcing of wrenches to alternator when tensioning fresh v belt, fuse links now have ‘quick disconnects.’ I also got over the ‘let me try to replace fusible links with a in line fuse’ phase of my life. Fun times.

Do you think I should upgrade the old assed 90 amp alternator instead? I would have to ‘jumper’ the external voltage regulator, etc. This would be easy as I’ve already prepped the wiring to handle a bigger alt. Or will that further load the skimpy little v belt and make it fly off into the sunset like all the other v belts I’ve lost on my joy rides?

I’m not even sure the Ford bastardized L21 could take a serpentine belt conversion due to how the V belt sits between the serpentine belt and the engine. I laugh at the terrible service illustrations in this Ford manual. No way in hell you can get a screw driver in to ‘tension’ the v belt as they describe. But the illustration gives you an idea of what I have to work with:

I got all the other fun diesel specific manuals, to boot. The guy I bought this baby from was a mechanical genius.

Hope this gives you some cannon fodder!

Sajeev answers:

Well yes, it certainly does. You see, I’ve finally started watching this TV show that all my friends, family and co-workers believe I should know very, very well.  So I decided to finally DVR it. The show is Top Gear, and they play it on some TV station in the UK. Or something like that.

And while the show is pointless, full of Internet-grade trolling, packed with reality TV worthy drama for absolutely no good reason AND is borderline racist…well, it does come in handy when responding to questions like these.

But first…let me tell you why I’m fuming mad.

• Son, let me tell you about the Fox Body Continental.  It was made on a unique production line in a unique factory, with a unique name not associated with the Lincoln brand. It is a Continental, and you should at least mention that once!
• But no, you insisted on always referring to it as a “Fox Body.” Which is like referring to a $50+ steak as just another hunk of meat. It’s disrespectful. This was the test bed for so many famous Fox Body parts or models.  It’s why the SVO had a good suspension and fantastic brakes.  It’s why that other famous Mustang Fox with a V8 engine became sorta-kinda-less flimsy, had a better-ish suspension and sported a fun little 5.0 motor after a lot of testing in Continental mules within Dearborn, circa 1985. (According to a report from Car and Driver, back in the day.)
• And when Ford had the balls to slip behind BMW and swipe a Steyr engine during the diesel rage in the 1980s, when GM pissed away so much on their terrible oil burners, they made a rather fantastic radiator for this respectable motor to live inside an, ahem, Fox Body.  That al-you-mini-um radiator so conveniently slipped into the 1993 Mustang SVT Cobra R.  That’s right: R…son!

So say it with me: this is a Fox Body Continental with a Diesel motor.

It is the best example of–what could be–the most exciting/tweakable/patriotic platforms ever to come from Ford Motor Company.  If you disagree, put some MKS badges on it, tell everyone it’s actually a Volvo under the skin and do some degrading thing that Jeremy Clarkson might suggest.

So perhaps you can see why I don’t necessarily see the problem with your car. It’s quite perfect as-is.  It, quite frankly, was Detroit State of the Art for the time. Would you go into the Lourve and paint eye brows on the Mona Lisa?

NO!  You just deal with it and enjoy a time piece that you can mess around with on weekends. That said, I do have one of those Ford-Steyr Diesel manuals you mentioned, and I agree…they are totally useless.

My Mark VIII recently developed a no-start issue and this manual was absolutely no help at all.  Sometimes I wonder why I even purchased it…to make my library look even geekier?

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

TTAC Commentator PartsUnknown writes:

Sajeev,

Long story short, a family friend has an ’86 944 non-turbo sitting in her driveway in suburban Massachusetts. It belongs to her son who lives in Manhattan. Although he loves the car, it simply does not fit his current lifestyle. He wants to sell it, but is not actively pursuing it. His mother is constantly suggesting that I buy it (she knows my predilection for cars). Here’s the deal: it’s been sitting for a few years, driven sparingly. It appears to be in good cosmetic condition and it apparently runs. I know these cars are expensive to maintain.

I’m a busy man, with a wife and two young kids, a demanding career and a Saab 9-5 that I like to tinker with to satisfy my inner mechanic. I value time with my family above all, and while focusing on saving for retirement and college tuition, probably couldn’t afford to dump massive amounts of money into this car. The only reason I’m even considering it is that this guy’s mother has hinted that he just wants to get rid of it, and she said laughing, “he’d probably take $1,000 for it”. Question is, should I even entertain the idea? What, at minimum, would it cost to get this thing roadworthy as a weekend ride considering its relative lack of use (keeping in mind I’m a middling DIYer)? I’m leaning no, but $1,000 for a decent 944 seems like a no-brainer. Almost. I previously owned a 1986 911 Carrera Coupe, which was a fantastic car, but I sold it for precisely the reasons stated above – to prioritize time with my family over spending a Saturday replacing blower motors and ball joints.

Talk me off the ledge.

Sajeev answers,

So let me get this straight: you have demanding career and a happy family, that you presumably support with said demanding career.  You give a crap about saving for your future, the future of your children, and you value your time with them. You also support a SAAB 9-5, which isn’t exactly the paragon of durability or simplicity for a shadetree mechanic…

…and you want a baseline Porsche 944 that’s a non-runner?  For $1000?

Even with a super-duper clean interior, that car should sell for a little more than scrap. So maybe $500, and that’s being generous to all but the most hardcore 944 fanatics out there. That said, I would be stupid enough to recommend you buy this car if:

1. You had no children, or if there’s some new strain of super self-sustained child.
2. You went on and on about your love of the Porsche 944. And on, and on, and on…
3. You didn’t already have a SAAB 9-5. Even a reliable, well maintained and cost effective  9-5 needs a less horrific project car partner than this.
4. You didn’t previously own a 911, and had yet to learn your lesson about old cars.  Especially old Porkers.
5. You said LS1-FTW in your letter. Then I’d be all up in this, son!

Here’s the point: anything and everything will go wrong with a car in this state.  $1000 is what you pay for one that actually fires up, drives, steers and brakes. And because it’s a Porsche 944, it will be far too expensive and fragile to ever make a lick of sense.

How’s that for a “No”?

***EDIT:  I misread the initial letter, as the 944 probably runs. While it may be worth a $1000 offer, I still believe PartsUnknown has better things to do with his spare time.***

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

Peter writes:

Hi Sajeev,

I drive a 97 Nissan Altima GLE with a leather interior and 180,000 miles on it.  I’m wondering:

1.  How much longer will this car be a reliable daily driver?  It is immaculate.  I am the 2nd owner, and I have the receipts going back to the window sticker.

2.  What car is  most similar to my Altima that will be five years old at the time I need to replace it?  I drive 15,000 miles a year.  A new car is not an option, because I can’t take the new car stench.

The best trait about my car is that it has a muted interior with no brightwork.  This makes it good for Southern California and great for my trips across the desert. With my next car, I am willing to forget the leather interior and the sunroof.  I am also not averse to replacing it with a manual.  A muted interior, however, is a must.  If I’m stuck with brightwork and chromed plastic, I will black it out myself.

Sajeev answers:

While I admire your attention to detail with this vehicle and your appreciation for anti-bling vehicles, I can only do so much when presented with generic questions. Yeah, they are pretty generic. But let me get my crystal ball and see what it says:

1. Eventually something labor intensive will fail and you’ll tire of this beast.  Maybe it’ll be the motor or transmission, or the A/C evaporator or heater core blows: these cost a fair chunk of change, involve days of downtime, and will cost more than the Altima’s trade-in value. Which is totally not fair to such a seemingly nice car.

I say this because I spent plenty of money on my Lincoln Mark VIII in the same manner. A grand on air suspension one year. A new tranny (high performance) at $1500. And other crap that I don’t even bat an eye at when it fails. That’s because I can’t imagine not having this in my garage as a daily driver, if needed. That’s a higher automotive love. Or stupidity…either way!

2. Oh man, another wicked crystal ball moment! I think the most “Altimistic” vehicle is a 2008-ish Mazda 6.  When I think of a timeless–yet mainstream–family sedan, that’s always my go-to vehicle. Sit in one and I am sure you will agree. Plus, you won’t need to black out much of anything, its design harkens back to a time when BMWs were mostly made of high grade black plastic inside.

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

TTAC commentator gessvt writes:

Sajeev -

Looking for some advice on a “to sell or not to sell” situation. A little background: I’ve been a fairly faithful Blue Oval guy for most of my driving years, with a few brief forays into cheap, reliable imports for college duty, and a recent contract gig that required me to drive The General’s products (GMC Sierra 4×4, Saab 9-5 Aero and Chevy Cobalt SS). We also own a trouble free Monterey minivan and a perfect ’93 5.0 notchback. My new job has no such requirement, so I made the decision to pay cash for a unique, fun, safe daily driver.

I’m outside of Chicago, and with the exception of this year, am usually subjected to significant snowfall and slow-to-react city
plowing service. A friend left his WRX wagon with me last winter so that a local body shop buddy could do a quick bumper respray in order to sell it. We had a blizzard during this time, and the WRX had Blizzaks, so I drove it around and was *hooked*. This car had too many miles and had been subjected to his car-guy wrath, so I searched for the Holy Grail of Subarus: the 2005 Legacy GT 5-speed wagon.

After a few months, I found one with 60,000 miles, had the dealer replace the clutch (first warning sign), and paid cash for it. Since then, I’ve put 20,000 miles on it, and have really enjoyed the car…when something wasn’t going wrong with it. In 12 months, the following repairs have occurred:

• replaced a hung up front brake caliper and pads/rotors (did both sides to be safe)
• chased down an intermittent cylinder misfire and poor idle (replaced intake manifold gaskets, air fuel sensor and a fuel injector)
• had a wheel bearing replaced under a Subaru TSB.

It sounds like another wheel bearing is getting ready to die, the 3rd gear synchro grinds (something I attributed to the weak clutch before I purchased), and one of the new front calipers got hung up on my drive to work this morning.

I’m at the point where I think I should fix the synchro and other misc issues and unload the car. At 80,000 miles, it’s still worth about what I paid for it. I love the power, the way it looks and drives and the poor weather performance, but I’m thinking that I’ve purchased a sorely neglected or problematic car. It may have turned me away from turbo Subarus for good. My question for the B&B: sell it and head back to Ford, or suck it up and drive it?

Apologies for the wordy rant.

Sajeev answers:

OMG SON! You said “perfect ’93 5.0 notchback” and…now that’s all I can think about.

Mmmmmmmm, Fox Body. (drooling)

Well then! I understand your Subie situation and agree with your assessment.  Turbo and manual transmission optioned Subarus are a serious threat to your wallet when purchasing on the used car market: they are too fragile for the abuse that might be thrown at them. And it sounds like you are one of the unlucky ones.  Not a big deal, since we all know that true Internet Pistonhead street cred comes from owning a wagon with a diesel and a stick. The Internet does not lie, you aren’t that cool.

I would do the bare minimum to the car for reconditioning, and let your service records do the talking.  You obviously loved the car enough to write this well crafted letter to Piston Slap, so I suggest you take all those receipts (that you saved) and put them in a cheapo 3-ring binder. Presentation is everything in selling a niche vehicle like this.  If your receipts show you care, the potential buyer will appreciate it…and won’t be so mad when stuff breaks on their clock.

And since you are a Ford guy, the 5.0 and the Mercury van need a Panther or Ranger 4×4 companion.  Obviously!  Too bad I can’t decide which is better for you!

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

TTAC Commentator edgett writes:

Sajeev –

I’ve got a 2007 BMW 335 which has a direct injection system. Although I enjoy the car, it has been through three fuel pumps in 35,000 miles and BMW has thankfully extended the warranty on the fuel pump to 100,000 miles and seven years. The benefits, however, are extraordinary. This engine gets excellent fuel mileage and makes fantastic power. So tell me why DI systems are so difficult that mighty Honda has yet to take the plunge!

Sajeev answers:

Actually they are jumpin’ on the bandwagon. And I am totally okay with auto makers taking far too long (for some people) to get their act together, but that’s a byproduct of being a Lincoln-Mercury fanboi used to such disappointment.  Anything, like the recent news from Honda, that gives me a glimmer of hope gets my heart all a-flutter!

Could be worse, I could be a Pontiac fanboi. But I digress…

Automakers have finite resources.  They may not put all their eggs in one hand basket, but they will stick with something for a soon-to-be made product to give it the best chance of success. That’s just smart business.  Imagine how bad it would be for Lincoln if they didn’t promote Ecoboost stuff, instead focusing on the next generation Town Car with a Coyote V8!  Oh wait, there I go again. Dammit.

Keeping corporate news releases and press exposure to one item is fair, but when it comes to R&D and pie-in-the-sky products, everyone hedges their bets. To some extent. Hyundai was the first to go mainstream family sedan with DI motors, obviously they were ahead of the curve and everyone else decided to make sure their stuff was at least as reliable.  And there’s a good chance Hyundai learned something from BMW’s fuel pump issue. Honda is following Hyundai, for all the right reasons.

Money. Time. Resources.  External human influences.  The wrath of Mother Nature. All of these hold back Honda’s DI motors…and occasionally break the heart of a Lincoln-Mercury fanboi.

Believe that.

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

Mike writes:

Dear Sajeev,

I have been a fan of TTAC for a while now. I am motivated to write by the recent responses to towing with a 2005 Odyssey. Two years ago I bought a 2008 Toyota Sienna and a 21 foot (actual total length) travel trailer. The trailer has a GVWR of 3500 lb, which the Sienna is rated to tow with its towing package. I had an independent shop install a fluid-to-air ATF cooler, unfortunately, perhaps, choosing the smallest model as it was recommended for a 3500 lb tow. I was concerned about getting too much cooling in the winter. The van already had an ATF cooler in the radiator. I had them put in an ATF temperature gauge (before the radiator) at the same time. The towed weight of the trailer is several hundred pounds below the GVWR, but it has a front profile that is basically vertical. I have towed the trailer about 20,000 km (yes, I’m in Canada) and done what Toyota calls an ATF change three times. That’s actually a drain the pan and refill with 4 L of ATF, not really a change. Of course, I have no way of knowing how accurate the gauge is, but the highest it’s been on the highway is 220 F on a couple of grades in the BC mountains (Coquihalla highway). The temperature went down as soon as the grade did. It went up to 240 F or so for a few minutes while backing up a steep hill and around a bit of a corner into a storage yard. The van had 38,000 km on it when purchased and is now at 82,000 km.

Enough background. I am writing to ask why it is apparently okay to tow a larger trailer (5000 lb rating) with a Highlander but not a 3500 lb trailer with a Sienna. As far as I can tell, the engine, transmission and weight of the vehicles are basically the same. The internet is rife with posters who advise against towing with a minivan but seem to have no qualms about doing so with a SUV, except the very smallest.

What do you think?

Thanks very much for helping me out with this. I can find no answer to my question on the internet.

Sajeev answers:

Wow, you actually put an ATF temperature gauge (among other things) in a minivan?  This is why I love TTAC: our readers do some rather brilliant and enlightened things outside of their computer time.  Well, at least some of you.  I kid, I kid!

There are crucial elements that go into a tow rating: the vehicle’s weight, braking capacity and rear spring stiffness.  The 2012 Sienna is about 200lbs heavier than the 2012 Highlander, for starters.  Who knows, maybe the brakes aren’t good enough for a Highlander sized trailer and the Sienna body.  Ditto the rear springs.

I never had much faith in manufacturer tow ratings, until the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) came up with their Surface Vehicle Recommended Practice J2807: which supposedly standardizes these figures.  Is J2807 is be all, end all of towing standards?  Maybe so, but this terribly formatted article gives you more insight.  Definitely cut and paste this one into Word before reading.

While this many not fully answer your question, hopefully this will tow you (sorry) in the right direction.

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

Bryan writes:

Sajeev,

I bought a salvage-title 2007 Honda Fit with 73k miles. Since then I’ve put 10k miles on it.

The owner’s manual has no maintenance schedule. Instead, everything is driven by the “maintenance minder”. A small display shows alphanumeric codes when certain conditions are reached. For example, the “1A” service is oil, filter, and hose/boot checks. Other codes like “1C” and “2C” are more rigorous things like belts & plugs, trans fluid, etc. There is an infamous oil life monitor which, if followed, has me draining blackstrap molasses at enormous intervals.

I’m stumped as to the mileage or conditions that prompt these. Without any previous service history I don’t know when to change plugs (are they 30k or 100k plugs?), transmission fluids (either on a normal or severe schedule) or serpentine belt (it was nearly dust at 74k).

Is there a database that reveals the mileage behind these reminders? I’d like to keep the car as long as possible. I love it and I love car maintenance. How can I be a maintenance hypochondriac with a maintenance minder?

Sajeev Answers:

As this informative–yet questionably biased–blog post shows, Honda’s maintenance minder is all about telling you when you need stuff. Lotsa stuff! And apparently you must use Honda approved oil…which means no synthetic oil.  Other than that depressing note, this system is a good idea for a self-proclaimed “Maintenance Hypochondriac”such as yourself.

Combined with the fairly low-maintenance nature of modern cars, I am a little concerned for your well-being. Because, by definition, Hypochondria is a serious illness not to be taken lightly.

I have yet to Google a relevant analysis of how these maintenance minders (Honda or otherwise) actually work.  And I rarely doubt modern “minders”, but my older cars that run Mobil 1 are a different story: I’m not throwing out perfectly good, still kinda golden, M1 oil after 3500-4500 miles no matter what my dashboard says.  It would be nice to see an algorithm that explains how driving styles affect oil life, how engine performance (determined by the rather brilliant sensors in your EFI system) degrades to the point of needing a tune up, etc. but it seems like a case of “Pay No Attention to that Minder behind the Curtain.” The world may never know!

My advice?  Question the machine by doing a visual on the wear items in question. Definitely get your oil analyzed the moment a warning light comes on: you know, just for funzies. Then you’ll know which items to trust, especially if Hypochondria is a valid concern.

Bonus!  A Piston Slap Nugget of Wisdom:

If you wish to seek the truth, check your spark plugs. That is all. 

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

Mike writes:

Good morning Sajeev.

Ask (for Piston Slap questions) and you shall receive. You are under no obligation to publish this assuming you receive more interesting material.  Thanks for doing what you do.

You may remember me as one of your fellow Lincoln Mark VIII enthusiasts.  The sway bars rock, and for now, I’m still running the OEM HIDs in my 2nd gen, hoping you find an aftermarket solution you deem adequate, and spread the word when the time comes. Although I do now own a pair of Doug’s delrin adapters, just in case.

But this isn’t about that car.  Oh yes, it’s the Panther!

 

I am the proud owner of a 1986 Lincoln Town Car, that I bought in 1997 with about 160k miles on it.  It now has 330,000 miles on it and the Minnesota winters have not been kind.  This has been my do-all vehicle, as well as my winter vehicle, for a number of years now.  It is equipped year round with snow tires. I tow with it, I haul lumber in/on it, it takes me canoeing camping, and bicycling.  Or it did until a couple weeks ago, when I blew a brake line.

That in and of itself would not be a big problem, but here is my concern.  Last winter, all of the fuel lines went.  (send, and return.)  they’ve since been replaced.  Everything underneath the car is a large, indistinguishable ball of rust.  The power steering leaks. Badly.  The transmission is reluctant to engage after coming to a stop sign in cold weather (until things warm up.)  I guess I’m just at the point where I wonder if it is time to let this one go.  The mid ’90s Town Cars can be had for 2-4 thousand on craigslist locally, or if I really want to go crazy, I could get a loan and pick up the W12 Phaeton I’ve been eyeing up..

I am leaning strongly toward dropping it off at the shop and let my mechanic so he can at least take a glance at it. We have an understanding.  If he tells me to “run away!”  I will.  If not, I Assume it will be a couple hundred bucks for a new line from front to back. that’s still better than a couple thousand for a new used car with “unknown” problems.  But in the end, I’m still driving a rusty, ’86 Lincoln.  At least when the next thing breaks, I still have my trusty ’72 Jeep Commando as a backup.

Why yes.  Those *are* 8′ 2x4s in that last photo…

And if you ever find yourself in Minnesota, I’ll buy you a beer.

Sajeev answers:

I do quite enjoy talking to a member of the Lincoln brotherhood, so it’s all good. I still need to make my old-to-modern HID conversion adapters. One day I’ll get them machined and ready to sell.  It’ll never make money–which is depressing–but I probably have no other choice. Because these cars were (almost) the first to have HIDs in the USA (a few 7-series BMWs from 1994-ish did have them) I really want to do the conversion for all of us…but there’s no time right now. Damn these labors of love!

Anyway, about the Panther…the indistinguishable ball of rust, as you so eloquently mentioned.

Cars in this situation are ticking time bombs: at some point it will be painfully obvious that it’s time to move on. I am not entirely sure you have reached it.  But you will.  I suspect a large rust hole in the floor board or a failing DOA gearbox (AOD, get it?) is in your future.  Probably not your near future, but it’s gonna happen.

When will your Town Car die a rusty, crusty death? Whenever it does, I will be watching this video and will pour one out for a fallen automotive soldier.

Click here to view the embedded video.

And I’ll do my best to sing “Ain’t no love in the heart of the city” without offending Mr. Bobby Bland. Because this Panther most certainly did you right, son.

 
Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

TTAC commentator Kitzler writes:

Hi Sajeev,

Quick question everybody ignores: I personally do not like racing a cold engine. My last two cars, a Dodge and a Lexus, both had automatic transmissions. When the engine was cold, Summer or Winter, worse in Winter, you had to rev the engine to 3000. before it would shift properly. Worse, the automatic would not shift into top gear until the engine was lukewarm, a couple of miles. Now here is the clincher, as the cars got older, the couple miles became three. What gives?

Appreciate an answer about racing a cold engine and why the damn automatic won’t shift properly, thanks.

Sajeev answers:

First off, this problem is multiplied when you are crazy enough to install a high-stall torque converter in your Lincoln Mark VIII. It’s bad enough with a stock stall speed unit, but add the looseness of a drag-racing worthy fanbox in your gearbox and you need even more throttle and more wait time before the car behaves normally. But you didn’t come here to read that, did ya?

This is normal for darn near any car with electronic fuel injection and an electronically controlled gearbox. Both are needed, as transmission behavior depends on the reading from the engine’s coolant temperature sensor. Yup, engine coolant is a fine bellwether to the future of your engine and transmission’s programming parameters. Let’s face it, a cold engine is not ideal for any driving condition. You want the motor to warm up ASAP.

Cold fluids are bad for performance, tailpipe emissions, and longevity of your car’s power train. A vehicle needs to be loaded up to get the fluids up to operating temperature ASAP, so the computer does just that. And once the coolant temperature looks peachy, the engine/transmission oil follows suit. Revving the engine to 3000rpm is a good idea, as opposed to stewing in “friction-filled” cold fluid at idle or trying to circulate this thick/cold stuff at 6000 rpm.

And here’s my point: you are NOT racing a cold engine from what you stated, you are doing exactly what is needed.

As to why this behavior is worse as cars age, well, that’s harder to say. Perhaps the coolant temperature sensor isn’t reading accurately: its internal resistance from cold to warm (to hot) is no longer linear. Perhaps old fluid has a viscosity problem that throws a monkey wrench into the system. Or perhaps it gets harder to overcome “the shivers” as we all get older. Which is why we all gotta roll the moment we wake up in the morning!

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

TTAC commentator cacon writes:

Hello Sajeev,

I’m a long time reader, but not much of a poster. Anyway, I currently own a 2009 SEAT Leon (bought new, I’m from Mexico if you wonder how I got this car), which is basically a 5th gen VW Golf in drag, 1.8 TSI engine and 6 speed manual, 32k km in the odometer (about 20k miles) almost 100% of city stop and go traffic. Currently, there’s nothing wrong with the car, but today I took it to the dealership for the vehicle emissions tests (all good) and looking at all the services that they provide I found this: Engine Carbon Build Up Cleaning with Hydrogen, so I ask the service representative what it was, in he basically told me that a machine is connected to the fuel system of the car and they feed it with hydrogen and keep the car running for about half an hour, and that should remove all the carbon build ups in the system.

Reading this and other forums I learned about the propensity of major carbon build in the valves, regarding the direct injected engines, so I found this interesting. Googling this cleaning system, I rapidly found about it: OxyHydrogen Engine Carbon Cleaning, although I just barely read about using it in scooter engines.

Then it came to me!! Ask Master Sajeev about it!! So I’m wondering if you ever heard of this system and if it’s really effective in removing carbon build ups, or if it is a bad idea to ever think about it. Dealership charges about $50 to perform this service by the way….

Saludos desde México!!

Paul writes:

Good Morning Sajeev,

Today is my 2010 GTI’s 15th day in the shop (shocking, right?). Earlier this month it was in for 13 days, I had it back for 6, and I dropped it back off two days ago. The issue is somewhat strange, but in my mind, easily fixable. I have been getting CEL 2294 and when I run my own VCDS scans, I have been getting the following logs (edited down).

• 004501 – Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve (N276)
• P1195 – 000 – Open or Short to Ground – Intermittent
• 008852 – Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve (N276)
• P2294 – 000 – Open Circuit – Intermittent

Note that the above mentioned valve is integrated into the fuel pump and cannot be changed.

Since the issue has started the dealer has replaced the high pressure fuel pump relay (makes sense), the fuse box (makes less sense to jump to that with no other issues, but I get it), and the throttle body wiring harness (also makes sense). The three previously stated fixes were done on the first visit, and seemed to work for about 3 days (well the throttle body wiring harness seemed to work for about 3 days, the other fixes didn’t fix anything). Late in the day yesterday (day 14 of shop time) a call was placed to the VW tech line as the dealer was stumped. As it is being covered until Power Train Warranty and I have received exceptional service (frequent updates from Service Adviser, free loaners), I have been reluctant to force the issue of why they are not replacing the last, and seemingly obvious, point of possible failure: the high pressure fuel pump (Note I have a TSI, not the FSI with the known HPFP/Cam Follower Issues).

My technical experience isn’t vast, but it seems like if all the downstream fixes don’t work, its time to go to the source. I also am a bit confused, as the amount of shop time this is costing them and the other parts they have invested, all add up to far more than the cost of a fuel pump ($250ish retail, so probably way less than that to them). So how hard do I push them down the last obvious road? Do I take it back and spend the $250 and a few hours myself, just to have it done? Do I trade it? Should I stop making assumptions?

Thanks for all you do,
Paul

(P.S. – Feel free to forum search the codes above, chances are you will only see my threads!)

Sajeev answers:

It is nice to see the Mk6 Golf continuing the last generation’s legacy. And by nice I mean it allows the B&B to make blanket statements about VW’s terrible long-term value without digging into the heart of the matter. Michael Karesh’s TrueDelta may beg to differ in a year or two, but that remains to be seen.

Replacing a wiring harness at this age? That’s a quality product right there!

Your dealer’s diagnostic sounds logical and I’m not dumb enough to remotely question their actions. Why? Because if the pump is putting out pressure within specifications, it was never the problem. And therefore it isn’t the next logical step. The engine computer itself may be the problem, and we may never know.

My advice? Time to start using the phrase “Lemon Law” with your dealer. Don’t be mean about it, just be honestly frustrated and seeking advice. And check your state’s specific rules on the matter, and see if (or when) your GTI fits into this category. I’ve seen cars get Lemon Law’d for less, so do yourself a solid and ask around on this matter.

Off to you, Best and Brightest!

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

Chris writes:

Sajeev,

Since you have a background in automotive design, I would be interested in your opinion on this matter…there has been one styling quirk that has always peeved me: the plastic filler panel where something else should have been.

The most (in)famous example is the plastic triangle on the C-pillar of the Dodge Sebring. I first started noticing this about 15 years ago on my brother’s Ford Contour: the rear door had a huge plastic filler panel behind the rear window where every other car made until then had a small fixed piece of glass. And I thought to myself: couldn’t they have come up with something better than a piece of plastic that’s already fading to chalky gray?

What it tells me is that the designer hasn’t done his homework. He took something he sketched during high-school study hall and ran with it, not realizing the complications of how to render it into metal in 10000+ unit volumes. Sure the elegant arc of the Sebring greenhouse looks nice on paper, but when the arc ends up above the rear wheel, it’s really hard to shape the door so that the arc is all glass. So instead of reworking the design to fix it, they put in a dark colored plastic triangle: It’s an afterthought. Heck, I’d even be OK with a tiny triangle of black tempered glass set into that nook, but plastic? They are either cheap, lazy, cynical or uncaring about their work to even consider a plastic plug.

To me it’s the ultimate turn off: I immediately dismiss any car that resorts to such styling parlour tricks. This also includes the black stripe below the windows on the Chevy Volt: it’s like the fat chick who wears black because it’s “slimming.” We all know what the deal is, and by trying to hide it, you make it more obvious.

Am I being unfair? Are there legitimate reasons for the plastic triangle? Would Chris Bangle, Bruno Sacco, or Pininfarina consider this acceptable practice?

Sajeev answers:

Well said. You have every reason to hate this design “feature.” The ones (a la Contour) used instead of fixed vent windows are okay, they serve a need: to keep the window size small enough so it can roll completely into the door, but cost less than fixed glass. Fine, except for the awful implementation of the 2008 Dodge Avenger.  A total re-think of the C-pillar was necessary there.

But the ones that lie outside the rear door glass (a la Chrysler 200)  is a far more offensive problem. I personally wish these cop outs would disappear, and roof lines will either be honestly sleeker or we just deal with less sleek-looking pillars. Eventually design studios that put their names on such ridiculous trim additions need to be shamed into changing their evil ways. And with that shame, maybe they can bully the other parts of the organization that may demand the plastic triangle…and force it upon them.

And that’s the real point. Most cars are designed by committee. Engineers of various departments, designers, marketing departments, etc can all (possibly) have an impact on the final product. It isn’t necessarily a designer’s fault that a black triangle showed up on their design.

Sometimes you have to eat a shit sandwich if you want to keep your job.

Your manager may make it for you, or someone far above their heads gives everyone said sandwich. If more people made a big deal about the quality of art in our automobiles, we’d be far, far better off. And there’d be less of these sandwiches made!

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com . Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

Mark in Upper Kentucky writes:

Sajeev,

Here’s a tire question for you to chew on: I just bought a new Mustang V6 (w/ the performance package), so I’ll soon put my ’07 Focus ST on the block.  The car is in good shape mechanically and cosmetically, but I’ve got a bit of a tire issue.  The Goodyear Eagle GT on the left rear has about 30k miles on it and is making a racket. 

Close examination of the inside row of tread blocks revealed moderate tread cupping, so that’s the culprit behind the noise.  I’d rather not put a new tire on a car I’ll sell in the next few weeks.  Is tread cupping a safety issue?  If it’s not a safety issue, is there any backwoods remedy I could try to limit the noise?  The Eagle GTs are not directional, so I was thinking I might be able to swap the two rears.  Any ideas?

Sajeev answers:

Tread cupping is a pretty minor problem; I have it on my Mark VIII.  Between my job, my new home and every other rolling clusterbomb in the Mehta garage, the slight mis-alignment and slightly ruined summer tires are far from a problem…mostly since the car is still quiet on the highway. Then again, Magnaflow’s finest and Kooks Headers make road noise go away rather quickly with enough throttle application.

Here’s the part where I stop complaining about my cupped tires and answer your question.

You’re selling the car, so don’t bother doing anything.  Swapping tires probably puts the road noise up front, so you might not see any change. This is truer on non-droning, hatchback-free, vehicles. Backwoods remedy?  Go to a shop that builds/services race cars and ask them to borrow their tire tread shaving machine.  Hey, I’ve seen dumber things!

Unlike Panther Love, my advice is conditional: if you sell it privately on Craigslist, openly disclose the problem and let the buyer see you are a trustworthy individual.  If you trade it in for quick cash, who cares?  You are dumping it (choosing time over money) and it becomes a problem for dealer’s scruples. Or lack thereof, but that’s a whole ‘nother problem.

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com . Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

 

Dan R writes:

Hello Sajeev,

I have a transmission related question that I was hoping you may be able to assist me with. I have a 2003 Mustang GT, 4.6, Auto. 110k. (3rd owner) The car has the occasional classic Ford “AOD trans shudder” at lower RPM under load.

It does not really affect the overall drivability of the car but is an annoyance and I’d like to take care of it. As far as I know this car has never had a trans service done. I’ve heard mixed reviews on weather to do a trans flush or not.

Would it be advisable to take it to a shop to do a “power flush” or whatever they are calling it, or should I do it myself? I normally do all my maintenance myself.  I have no problem dropping the pan and making a mess, I just want to make sure it will clear up the fluid in the converter.

So, any advice is appreciated, thank you!

Sajeev answers:

I have yet to officially choose a side in the battle between power flushing and the normal fluid/filter change. I like power flushing since it blows out fluid from the torque converter, and you have no other choice.  Why?  Because the bean counters at Ford “thrifted out” the torque converter drain plug (circa 2000) but still left us the rubber access grommet for no good reason…other than being too cheap to thrift that part out, too.

And for classic Ford tranny shudder, you need to change all the fluid, including the converter. I personally know Ford transmission shudder, as I moderate the best Lincoln forum on the planet: a place where Lubeguard Red was/is mentioned regularly. I used it for a Ford tranny shudder many moons ago, and it worked like a charm.

Even at this high-ish mileage, a fluid/filter change and adding Lubeguard Red is a good idea. And now I cursed it: with my luck, my advice means that new fluid will burn out the (excessively worn?) clutches and make things much worse.

Fingers crossed that I didn’t screw the pooch.  I hate automatic transmission problems.

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com . Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

Confused in South Bend writes:

Hi, Sajeev….

I am the owner of 2003 M-B C240 base, with the Bi-Xenon headlights. Recently, one of the headlights has developed an issue….in cold weather, it does not work.

Went to my German car specialist, who wasn’t so special on this issue.  No problem, he said, replace the bulb.  $160 later, still had the problem.  OK, negotiated for him to give me a credit on the next fix.

Researched on the web, purchased a used Ballast.  Mr. German car specialist looked at the part, scratched his head and said, “I don’t know what this part is.” Mercedes dealer says, spend about $900 for an entirely new headlight assembly.

I know that Mercedes engineers think money grows on trees….but $900 to fix a balky headlight?  Come on…

I want to get this fixed….my question, is replacing the ballast the way to go?  Or must I render to Stuttgart…..?

Sajeev answers:

When one HID headlight goes out, the ballast and/or the bulb is usually the problem.  And I would never just buy a new HID bulb just to take a stab at the problem, especially when we know the quality of electronic components in German vehicles of this vintage. Who knows, maybe there’s a lighting control module mounted elsewhere that we non-German-techie people don’t know about!  This is what specialty shops are supposed to do for us!

But, unfortunate diagnosis aside, I still think the smart money is on a bad ballast.

A visual inspection of the bulb is necessary, and the ballast is first tested by checking for power to the ballast itself.  If you got nothing there, bigger problems away from the headlight assembly are in your future. If not, get the ballast tested and repaired/replaced. I am by no means a lighting guru, but from what I see via Googling, you can’t test a ballast with your garden variety multimeter. A specific tool is needed.

You made the classic mistake: buying a part and hoping for the best.  Find someone who knows what they are doing to test and verify the actual problem. From the sound of it, you need a new German Specialist.

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com . Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

Anonymous writes:

Sajeev,

Recently I picked up a set of Bridgestone Blizzak WS60 winter tires for my 2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX GSR (lightly modded at approximately 350 whp/320 wtq) and unfortunately I was unable to get a “V” speed rating in winter tires as they only came in “H”.

http://www.bridgestonetire.com/productdetails/TireSubBrand/Blizzak_LM-60

How dead-set are those tire ratings?  I wonder because there was an “incident” involving myself, another Evo and a BMW 135i which included speeds in excess of the 130mph speed rating (surface conditions were dry, closed road, no spectators).  Would an occasional jaunt above the speed rating of the tire cause long-term damage to the tire, or would it take a constant load to delaminate from the rim?

Thank you in advance for your time.

Sajeev answers:

Being an H-town boy who only enjoys visiting cold climates for business or vacation gives me pause on my answer.  And while there’s street racing aplenty over here, we don’t try to find ourselves in jail on the wings of flying winter tires.  So with that in mind…

Your question has too many conditionals and vague language (for good reason, I assume) to give a solid answer.  As such, here’s a crappy answer: a tire’s performance deteriorates over time, as rubber naturally hardens, stress cracks, etc.  A 1-2 year old tire might be fine running up to its speed rating, in theory. Temperature also comes into play: if you live in 100+ degree weather and want to drive triple digits for sustained periods, your tires will go much sooner than someone doing the same at 60 degrees.

Duration is a big concern, as you mentioned.  There’s a good chance you can run Blizzaks at or above their speed rating for less than a minute with no problem. If you ran it for 10 minutes or longer?  That “good chance” turns into a “not bloody likely” in my opinion. This notion is described in far better detail on the eng-tips.com forum.

Perhaps it goes without saying, but this behavior is pretty stupid.  And since many of us are guilty of this automotive sin, we shouldn’t be proud of doing it…even if damn near everyone with a lead foot and a 250+ hp vehicle has tried it at some point in their lives.  I’m not here to judge, just to speak my mind. Best of luck.

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com . Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

Chris writes:

Hey Sajeev,

Long time lurker here.  Since you asked so nice, here’s a problem that I haven’t managed to troubleshoot myself, and so far my own searches & forum postings haven’t nailed an answer. My girlfriend drives a 99 Mazda Protégé.  If driven for an extremely short distance (like from the street into the garage), it will not start the next morning.  It turns over just fine, but doesn’t catch.

I’ve found that I can eventually get it to start by holding the gas pedal to the floor & cranking, followed by easing up on the pedal slightly (maybe 1/2 or 3/4 of the way down) & continuing to crank.  This process takes 5 – 10 minutes, so there’s lots of breaks in there as well.

Almost everything on the spark side has been replaced for different reasons (I was chasing engine codes the wrong way).  So I’m pretty sure it’s not battery, spark plug/wire, or coil pack related.  Simiarly, I’ve changed the MAF, O2 sensors, cat, & the acordian hose that feeds from the intake to the throttle body (the hose being what was actually causing the codes, BTW).  None of these changes seemed to affect this particular problem.

This lead me to believe the problem must be fuel delivery in some way, but now I’m second guessing myself.  The problem seems to happen most often when it’s cold & damp outside (by Georgia standards).

Normally I’d have changed the fuel filter by now, but it’s not a separate unit.  It’s attached to the pump & sits in the tank.  That’s probably going to be my next step.  Before I do that I wanted to run this by you.  Any ideas?  Someone suggested the the charcoal canister could be trapping water vapor (since the engine is never hot), and then forcing that vapor into engine when I try to start it the next morning.  I’ve never played with that before, but if that’s right then shouldn’t there be a hose I could disconnect & see if the car starts?

Anyway, if you have any suggestions, I’d love to hear them.  This isn’t an urgent problem, but it’s one I’d like to be able to solve.

Thanks

-Chris

PS, here’s another write up of the problem, just in case I missed something.  Mine’s the 3rd post.

Sajeev answers:

Thanks for your letter. I like the post on the Mazda Forum, especially since you did my homework for me. And by your own admission, you threw parts at a problem instead of finding the proper diagnostic for the engine codes generated.  Are the codes still present?

Your problem sounds like a lack of fuel, and I seriously doubt that’s a stretch for me to armchair analyze that from my remote vantage point. Check the fuel pressure with the key on, engine off.  Compare the reading on the gauge to what your EFI system needs to run properly.  If you are at the lower end of acceptable (or worse) you have found your problem.

Maybe a bottle of fuel system cleaner in the tank is all you need.  Or maybe a fuel filter.  Or maybe the fuel pump itself. Or maybe the fuel injector’s resistance is out of spec. Or maybe the fuel pressure regulator, or its associated vacuum plumbing. My point is, this is hard to guess from my laptop.

My advice is to start with a fuel pressure tester and buy a filter, maybe a pump after that. Also make sure the vacuum lines to the regulator aren’t fossilized, gooey or cracked. If they aren’t as soft/pliable as the rubber on your shoes, replace them.

Good luck on your hunt, I am sure your girlfriend appreciates your hard work…provided you never, ever throw parts at a problem again.  Never again, son!

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com . Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.