Piston Slap: Spicy…or Spicier?

Sajeev Mehta
by Sajeev Mehta

John writes:

Wasup, Sajeev!

I have an 06 R/T Charger and I am contemplating getting a set of Eibach springs for it. What other costs might be associated aside from installation? What other products would I need to purchase, if any?

Thanks for any input,


John

Sajeev answers:

Well son, there was once a time when lowering springs ruined the suspension settings of a half-assed platform: hat tip to my dear Fox Body Ford. Hopefully your German-bred Chrysler product has none of those problems.

Eibach makes two kits for your car: spicy and spicier. That’s because the lower you go, the more heat you gotta handle.

Lowering (or lifting, for that matter) springs alter any vehicle’s suspension geometry. A wheel alignment is mandatory, and the LX forums seem to agree. Mild lowering kits (1.5″-ish max) are usually fine with stock dampers, even if a firmer shock compliments a lower and (usually) firmer spring. More aggressive setups usually need a matched set of dampers to go with, unless you care not about ride degradation.

Sometimes a full suspension kit includes an anti-roll bar upgrade too, which could help the feel and scrub understeer but the reduced left-to-right suspension flexibility isn’t necessarily that fantastic. More jolts don’t translate into faster lap times: do extensive research before you buy.

There’s also the matter of stock wheels: even the R/T might look a little silly with a lower body and boring-ass stock wheels. A bigger rim with a shorter sidewall is needed to “complete the look.” A different offset rim (see hyperlinked thread above) can also help with the inevitable: the meeting of expensive rubber with metal body parts. And brings me to the big problem with aftermarket lowering bits: driving style!

The more you have, the more likely you’ll avoid the punishment of potholes, pavement joints and puddles. If you live in a place with bad roads, or flooding, you might want to reconsider. Because nothing’s worse than a sore back, a tired ass and a hydro-locked motor if you treat a lowered car like a normal one.

Bonus! A Piston Slap Nugget of Wisdom:

See the slippery slope here? What exactly do you want? Looking lower requires more parts than just springs to complete the look. That’s the stance or hellaflush look, and it ain’t cheap. Going faster for the road and track? Going full aftermarket may be overkill: I’d try some factory funded engineering perfection via SRT-springs, famously high quality dampers (like Koni, Bilstein) and stickier tires on stock wheels. That won’t make you look any cooler, but you certainly will be.

[Image: Dodge/Fiat Chrysler Automobiles]

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry…but be realistic, and use your make/model specific forums instead of TTAC for more timely advice.

Sajeev Mehta
Sajeev Mehta

More by Sajeev Mehta

Comments
Join the conversation
2 of 56 comments
  • Blue-S Blue-S on May 12, 2014

    The ST Suspensions Coilover kit might be a good option. ST is a subsidiary of KW, and their stuff is made in Germany. The ST kits do not have the stainless steel housings that the KW products use, though. It looks like the ST Coilover kit for the '06 Charger is about $900 from several online sellers, and there is apparently a $150 rebate available through June. You would be hard-pressed to get a set of Konis or Bilsteins and a set of reputable-brand sport springs for that kind of money. Just don't go nuts with the lowering. Just because you CAN lower the car several inches, that doesn't mean that you SHOULD...

  • Raph Raph on May 13, 2014

    I was checking out Koni's site today and hit the news & event link. They are offering dampers and matched H&R springs. Pretty cool as this takes the chance of mismatching the spring and damper out of the problem. For the average guy looking to lower a vehicle this isn't a bad way to go and by average I mean the person that isn't willing to invest time into going out and evaluating their performance with concrete numbers and testing methods.

  • Rochester I'd rather have a slow-as-mud Plymouth Prowler than this thing. At least the Prowler looked cool.
  • Kcflyer Don't understand the appeal of this engine combo at all.
  • Dave M. This and the HHR were GM's "retro" failures. Not sure what they were smoking....
  • Kcflyer Sorry to see it go. The interior design and color options in particular are rare in the industry
  • Wolfwagen Here is my stable. not great not bad I try to do as much as possible. I work for an Aftermarket automotive parts company so I can get most parts at a discount.i try to do as much of my own work as possible. My wife hates that I spend time and money fixing the vehicles but she doesn't want car payments either so...2019 VW Atlas 50K (wife's) Only issues so far were Brakes and normal maintenance.A Bad Cat Converter which was covered and a replacement of the rear bank head gasket which was a manufacturing defect due to improper torquing at the factory. All under warranty2003 Saab 9-5 Arc Wagon (my DD) 116 K picked up used last year. Replaced Struts, brakes, hatch struts, motor mounts, D/S swaybar link, Timing belt, water pump and thermostat Power steering pump Fuel pump, Both Front window regular rollers, Heater core and cabin air filter. Oil and transmission changes. Love the car but Saab/GM packaging is a nightmare.2005 Cadillac Deville (former DD now Son # 1 DD) picked up used 5 years ago with only 47K now 83K Plugs, coils, P/s pump, Water pump, hoses, P/S lines (mechanic job) evap valve, brakes, Front brake calipers and rear brake calipers. Currently has oil pan gasket leak - looking to have a mechanic do that2009 Mini Cooper (Daughters dd)picked up 2 years ago 67K Brakes and thermostat house to clear check engine light2001 Mazda Tribue (Son#2 dd) 106K picked last summer after he severely damaged a 2004 Hyundai accent. Oil changes
Next