The Oil Change: Who, What, When, Where, Why… And… Huh?

Steven Lang
by Steven Lang

Oil changes.

Should they be done every 3000 miles? 5000 miles? 10,000 miles?

Or should you pay a premium and go for that ultra-long marathon of 15,000 miles with the right oil and filter combination?

Those of us who drive our cars for quite a while are usually focused on mileage above all else. But what about those vehicles that we rarely drive?

Should the Sunday drivers and infrequent haulers of rubbish be given the same regimen?

What about using time as a yardstick instead? 6 months… 1 year… 2 years?

Everyone thinks the answer is different. But for most vehicles, it’s the same.

Most vehicles on the road will be absolutely fine with an oil change every 5,000 miles or 1 year. Whichever one comes first.

There are a few exceptions, of course. Some late model vehicles can supposedly go with an oil change every 10,000 miles. While some of the higher end motor oils and filters can last as long as 15,000 miles.

But from my experiences, it’s usually better to just give it the 5k and go. Just make sure the oil passes the American Petroleum Institute Standards for that vehicle.

Nothing more. If you want to use synthetic, that’s fine. Over the years I’ve heard endless variations of what I like to call the, “Hallelujah synthetic choir.” The song of praise usually comes in an anecdotal ballad that sounds a bit like this.

“But… but… but Steve? I have a 1990 Eagle Premiere whose engine is as clean as it was when it left the factory floor. And I’m almost 110% sure it’s because I use synthetic!”

Well, I like synthetic too. But you don’t need synthetic oil unless your owner’s manual says it. Or in those few special cases (we’re talking less than 1% of vehicles out there) where there is some lubrication issues inherent within the engine’s design that make frequent changes with synthetic a better choice. A visit to an enthusiast forum for a given make and model will often help clarify that real quick.

From my experiences of buying, selling and financing cars, which now number well into the several thousands of vehicles, the type of motor oil makes no difference for the overwhelming majority of vehicles out there. Buy the oil that’s on sale. Buy recycled oil. Heck, if you visit this place on an infrequent basis, you will likely get the top quality oils at prices that are on par or less than conventional oil.

But for 99+% of you, it won’t make a difference. The socks you wear will have a greater daily impact on your life than the type of oil you keep in your car.

As for oil filters, I do invest slightly more in their ability to make a difference given the variants in today’s marketplace. A larger filtration area. Better filtration materials, and a solid design all help keep engine contaminants at a minimum.

With all that said, don’t go overboard with it. Most folks will once again be fine with the basic brands. Want to go up a notch? Do it. I have a liking for Purolator Pure One and AC Delco brand filters. They cost a few dollars more than the store brands and often times, that spread is negated by an oil change special which lowers the price of buying the oil and filter together.

A lot of older enthusiasts are now following the lead of their less caring car owners and opting for the Quickie Lube and 5k change oil places. After all, $20 for an oil change is often times cheaper and more efficient than buying all the materials outright, taking the time to do it yourself, and then transporting the used oil back so that it can be recycled.

If the lube place of your choice does a good job of bringing the oil to the appropriate level, and stands buy the product with some form of warranty, I would go for it with the one caveat of inspecting the undercarriage or driveway for oil leakage issues.

However, the better alternative in nearly all cases is to have an independent garage do it instead.

A shop that hires mechanics who look at automobiles all day can catch little problems far better than a quickie lube place that pays their people commissions by pushing unneeded maintenance services. Consider the extra money you pay a fair trade for a better set of eyeballs and less overall stress.

If that works for you, guess what? It works for me too. Then again the fun factor goes far south when you’re faced with doing 20 of them a month.

Steven Lang
Steven Lang

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  • Power6 Power6 on Dec 19, 2013

    if you have a turbo subaru...every 3750 doesn't matter what type of oil, keep that turbo oil feed banjo screen clean...ask me how I know. Also any Subaru only use OEM filters...Subaru uses a bypass valve opening pressure different that the default that *every* other mfr uses (well excpet for late Mazda RX8 you can use those filters too)

  • ArizonaSE ArizonaSE on Dec 22, 2013

    I've thought about the topics outlined in this article extensively, and at the end of the day I think the best thing to do is to simply follow the owner's manual (re: oil viscosity, intervals, etc.). As for oil brand, the best oil is...new oil! Although I must admit I never buy the store-branded generic motor oils myself. I also agree that it is better to have an honest 'real' mechanic change the oil. They are more likely to find other issues needing attention. We have 3 cars: -2004 Acura TSX 6spd. 122k miles. I change the oil every 5k miles because that's the 'severe' schedule. I still bring this car to the dealer because, for whatever reason, the Acura dealer charges reasonable amounts for oil changes. Only $35 dollars and that includes a car wash. Last I checked, the dealer uses 5w-30 Pennzoil synthetic blend. -2011 Lexus IS250 auto. 26k miles. Owners manual calls for 0w-20 with 10k oil changes using synthetic. 10k does seem like a while, but that's what the owners manual specifies. Lexus dealer here wants $200 for an oil change. That is CRAZY. I take this car to an independent mechanic who specialized in Toyota and Lexus. Use Mobil 1. -2005 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 6speed. 29k miles. The Jeep is rarely driven (1k-3k miles a year). I change the oil once a year with 10W-30 Valvoline dino oil and a Wix filter. No sense in wasting money on anything more fancy with this Jeep engine which is tough as nails. Given that this is an older engine design, if it were a daily driver I probably would change the oil closer to 3-5k miles but would still use dino oil.

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