Piston Slap: Twisted Talk on Straight Eights

Sajeev Mehta
by Sajeev Mehta

TTAC Commentator Morea writes:

Sajeev, hope it’s not too dumb, but it really is a question I have! I wish to someday own a car with a straight eight engine.

Nothing fancy, just something to use as a weekend toy, perhaps to do some work on myself. Nothing too expensive or concours quality either. Just a car to get the feeling of running a straight eight through its rev range. It seems an American car of the early 1950s would be the best bet, but which make and model? Oldsmobile, Buick, Pontiac, Hudson, another? Which straight eight was best? Which model is easiest to own? Can the Best and Brightest advise me on how to get into a straight eight that won’t break the bank?

Sajeev answers:

What a fantastic question! This is what I live for, which is a bit sad.

Even worse, the only straight-eight I want is Ford’s T-Drive concept, since it combines my love of Fox bodies and the current Piston Slap topic. Maybe I should write about finding one of these tucked away somewhere in Dearborn, parking my ’88 Cougar next to it and they magically open a Foxy ThunderCat portal to another dimension…no Stephen King’s lawyers, don’t sue me!

My ideal I-8 for you is the Buick “Fireball” 8. I always admired the vehicles around this mill, and it was OHV instead of the flathead designs of other manufacturers. The Buick Eight has unquestionable curb appeal, especially for anyone who remembers the movie “Rain Man.”And that marginally depressing Steven King book. It’s not that other straight eights are bad vehicles, the Buick is just the ideal one for the average collector car buyer that isn’t infatuated with ’69 Camaros or vintage Porkers.

I think you can find a decent driver for anywhere from $5000-15,000, depending on your luck and what’s on the market. More perfect examples are more like $25,000 and beyond. That’s not too bad, especially if you buy it below market value in a down economy. You could easily get a cheap Buick Eight and sell it for thousands more when the economy picks up.

Now, about breaking the bank: all antique vehicles need a ton of work to keep running. Anything that moves or has rubber can and will go bad. Luckily there is a fair amount of restoration parts for Buicks, just not as much as Tri-Five Chevys. Thanks to eBay, Buick parts restorers and even places like Steele Rubber Products can hook you up.

I’d rustle up about twelve grand in cash and start searching. Best of luck to you!

Send your queries to sajeev@thetruthaboutcars.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

Sajeev Mehta
Sajeev Mehta

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  • Radimus Radimus on Oct 16, 2012

    Go bigger. Bolt two I-6's together for a straight 12.

  • Andy D Andy D on Oct 24, 2012

    Yah, when I was in junior high, I had a 53 Packard to drive around on the trails. Big car, prehistoric flathead 327CI, Carter 4 barrel My buddy Jeffrey drove a '53 Special from Oregon for my wedding. in '73

  • Bkojote Allright, actual person who knows trucks here, the article gets it a bit wrong.First off, the Maverick is not at all comparable to a Tacoma just because they're both Hybrids. Or lemme be blunt, the butch-est non-hybrid Maverick Tremor is suitable for 2/10 difficulty trails, a Trailhunter is for about 5/10 or maybe 6/10, just about the upper end of any stock vehicle you're buying from the factory. Aside from a Sasquatch Bronco or Rubicon Jeep Wrangler you're looking at something you're towing back if you want more capability (or perhaps something you /wish/ you were towing back.)Now, where the real world difference should play out is on the trail, where a lot of low speed crawling usually saps efficiency, especially when loaded to the gills. Real world MPG from a 4Runner is about 12-13mpg, So if this loaded-with-overlander-catalog Trailhunter is still pulling in the 20's - or even 18-19, that's a massive improvement.
  • Lou_BC "That’s expensive for a midsize pickup" All of the "offroad" midsize trucks fall in that 65k USD range. The ZR2 is probably the cheapest ( without Bison option).
  • Lou_BC There are a few in my town. They come out on sunny days. I'd rather spend $29k on a square body Chevy
  • Lou_BC I had a 2010 Ford F150 and 2010 Toyota Sienna. The F150 went through 3 sets of brakes and Sienna 2 sets. Similar mileage and 10 year span.4 sets tires on F150. Truck needed a set of rear shocks and front axle seals. The solenoid in the T-case was replaced under warranty. I replaced a "blend door motor" on heater. Sienna needed a water pump and heater blower both on warranty. One TSB then recall on spare tire cable. Has a limp mode due to an engine sensor failure. At 11 years old I had to replace clutch pack in rear diff F150. My ZR2 diesel at 55,000 km. Needs new tires. Duratrac's worn and chewed up. Needed front end alignment (1st time ever on any truck I've owned).Rear brakes worn out. Left pads were to metal. Chevy rear brakes don't like offroad. Weird "inside out" dents in a few spots rear fenders. Typically GM can't really build an offroad truck issue. They won't warranty. Has fender-well liners. Tore off one rear shock protector. Was cheaper to order from GM warehouse through parts supplier than through Chevy dealer. Lots of squeaks and rattles. Infotainment has crashed a few times. Seat heater modual was on recall. One of those post sale retrofit.Local dealer is horrific. If my son can't service or repair it, I'll drive 120 km to the next town. 1st and last Chevy. Love the drivetrain and suspension. Fit and finish mediocre. Dealer sucks.
  • MaintenanceCosts You expect everything on Amazon and eBay to be fake, but it's a shame to see fake stuff on Summit Racing. Glad they pulled it.
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