New Or Used?: The Enthusiast's Dilemma Edition

Sajeev Mehta and Steve Lang
by Sajeev Mehta and Steve Lang

Sunil Shah writes:

I am wondering if you can give me some advice as I search for a used car. By way of background, I previously had an E46 330i w/sport package and manual transmission (purchased used at 35K miles and sold at 89K miles). It was a great car, but I sold a while back as I moved into a city and had a short walk to work. Now, I’m back in the suburbs and am looking for something that may or may not exist.

Here are my requirements:

– at least 4 doors, but would prefer a wagon (just had a baby and like the idea of the extra utility);

– manual transmission

– engaging to drive

– decent gas mileage (mid-to-high 20s on the highway)

– budget is $20K

– would like to keep this for 5 years (will be my daily driver)

I’ve been looking for an E46 or E39 wagon with stick, but have not come across any in the past two months (plenty with auto though). Then I’ve thought of Audis (A3, A4) but reading through various sites seems to indicate that these are maintenance nightmares as the miles pile on (moreso than BMWs). I’ve looked at the IS300 Sportcross (auto only), but the gas mileage on these is rather low (22-23, at best).

Lastly, I’ve read about (but have not driven) the Mazda6 wagon… though, I’m not sure I’m digging the interior all that much. Alternatively, if I go with a sedan, any thoughts regarding keeping and maintaining an E39 M5 or an E36 M3 sedan?

Steve Lang answers:

This is really the domain of three types of vehicles. A Subaru Impreza is a lot of fun to drive and would probably be the best overall fit. It fits all of your criteria and there are also plenty of handshakers out there that would meet your enthusiast bent. Parts should be very reasonable since Subaru tends to have longer model runs for their cars.

Two other ones I would consider are… sedans. The Acura TSX may not be a wagon. But it is a bit nicer as a daily driver and the quality of the interior is two clicks above the Impreza. Finally, you have one other near-new car that may be worth the consideration… a VW Jetta TDI. I’m sure that the Jetta is available with a stick as a wagon. But I simply haven’t seen one.

The same is true for the ‘Saabaru’ also known as the Saab 9-2X. That’s really just a Subaru with better seats. Overall if it were me, I would opt for a late 1990’s 5-Series BMW and use the remainder of your monies for repairs. Actually… that’s not it. I would really buy a well kept 1990’s Volvo turbo wagon and be done with it. Fun, luxury… and the absolute best seats in the business. Replace the shocks and put some nice wheels on it, and you’ll have the nicest ride in the car pool lane.

Sajeev Mehta answers:

I cringe when a budget this puny (sorry!) comes from someone with BMW aspirations. You’ll need a second mortgage to keep an M-series running, but even a mundane 3-series is a bit of a stretch. This is where a good Desi recommends a CamCord to a fellow brown person.

And just wait a second: did you mention fuel economy and M-series cars in the same letter?

Let’s pretend that didn’t happen, because we gotta narrow this project’s scope. Any car that fits your bill is more of a financial burden than mainstream sedans. So stick with the basics. Several Subarus come to mind, sit in a few and see if you can get over the quirky styling and boxer labor rates. Speaking of quirky, a new Scion xB with the dealer installed suspension goodies might work. Or a Mazda 3, but you’ll get your wrist slapped if you mention the Speed3 and fuel economy.

So I’m going with one of your original choices, the Mazda6 wagon. It fits the bill and pushes many of the Teutonic buttons so desirable in a Bimmer. But good luck finding one with a stick shift in the console, anywhere.

Sajeev Mehta and Steve Lang
Sajeev Mehta and Steve Lang

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  • Areitu Areitu on Apr 21, 2010

    Subarus would fit your bill pretty well. The timing belt service can be a bit of a pain though. Their MTs sometimes feel vague and squishy, but $70 of aftermarket bushings will fix that. I did a lot of forum-reading on the E36 M3/4/5 (four door, five speed...nearly bought one with only 72k miles on it) and found out the're generally better taken care of than equivalent Non-Ms, and are solid on the reliability/maintenance front once the major issues (water pump impeller) and the usual E36 maintenance is addressed. If it has aftermarket suspension, peek under the rear to make sure the swaybar hasn't popped off it's mounts, or for cracks. E39s have a lot of small issues in general, regardless of whether you have a 528i or M5. Dead pixels in the readout, worn suspension, interior HVAC sensors gone bad, cooling system issues, etc. It wouldn't stop the car from running, but it could be annoying or expensive. What are older CTSVs going for nowadays? I'm sure you could get decent MPG out of one if you drove it gently and used skip-shift.

  • Skurtis Skurtis on Apr 21, 2010

    I just purchased a used one year old Jetta Wagon (non-TDI) with a stick having test drove a new Jetta Wagon TDI with a stick and I would highly recommend both. When looking for the used one I did come across a TDI version with a stick for $19k ($28k new as equipped) so it falls within your budget. The gas version can be significantly cheaper to purchase used since they start at $20k new.

  • MaintenanceCosts Nobody here seems to acknowledge that there are multiple use cases for cars.Some people spend all their time driving all over the country and need every mile and minute of time savings. ICE cars are better for them right now.Some people only drive locally and fly when they travel. For them, there's probably a range number that works, and they don't really need more. For the uses for which we use our EV, that would be around 150 miles. The other thing about a low range requirement is it can make 120V charging viable. If you don't drive more than an average of about 40 miles/day, you can probably get enough electrons through a wall outlet. We spent over two years charging our Bolt only through 120V, while our house was getting rebuilt, and never had an issue.Those are extremes. There are all sorts of use cases in between, which probably represent the majority of drivers. For some users, what's needed is more range. But I think for most users, what's needed is better charging. Retrofit apartment garages like Tim's with 240V outlets at every spot. Install more L3 chargers in supermarket parking lots and alongside gas stations. Make chargers that work like Tesla Superchargers as ubiquitous as gas stations, and EV charging will not be an issue for most users.
  • MaintenanceCosts I don't have an opinion on whether any one plant unionizing is the right answer, but the employees sure need to have the right to organize. Unions or the credible threat of unionization are the only thing, history has proven, that can keep employers honest. Without it, we've seen over and over, the employers have complete power over the workers and feel free to exploit the workers however they see fit. (And don't tell me "oh, the workers can just leave" - in an oligopolistic industry, working conditions quickly converge, and there's not another employer right around the corner.)
  • Kjhkjlhkjhkljh kljhjkhjklhkjh [h3]Wake me up when it is a 1989 635Csi with a M88/3[/h3]
  • BrandX "I can charge using the 240V outlets, sure, but it’s slow."No it's not. That's what all home chargers use - 240V.
  • Jalop1991 does the odometer represent itself in an analog fashion? Will the numbers roll slowly and stop wherever, or do they just blink to the next number like any old boring modern car?
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